I'm currently running Infinity Basslink, a self-powered 10" sub. Although I'm satisfied with the sound, I want to have a flat trunk surface for easier storage of larger items. So I'm thinking about building a box for a single 10" or two 8" subs that flush even with the rear seats when folded down. What would sound better single 10" or two 8", given the same brand and model?

Normally, I prefer to have a subwoofer box made of MDF for a tighter bass response.. However, due to weight saving, a fiberglass enclosure with partial MDF baffle top might be a better choice. Suggestions?

 

Do the 10", unless you can get the volume that you need for two 8's without going solobaric... Depth may be an issue with the 10". The 10 will give a slightly longer throw and deeper bass given the right amount of power and volume...

JL audio subs have always been on the top of my list....

 

I'd say an 8" will typically yield more rear clearance to ensure you'll get a flat floor with the seats folded. Of course, which driver you pick will dictate the quantity through the Vb requirement based upon the Qtc you pick. Also, Vb will dictate what enclosure construction. I'd recommend as much MDF as possible!

Good luck,
Ryan

 

Thanks for the infos!

10" might yield a lower frequency response. I think the needed clearance can be gained from the center of the boot, where the battery is located. I just have to find the right sub. Suggestions?

_________________

 

The Dayton Titanic Mk3 10" in a 0.4ft3 sealed enclosure will give a nice tight Qtc of 0.56, which is less than I usually recommend, but then again, it's tough to make an enclosure much smaller than 0.4 and still actually FIT the 10"!

Cheers,
Ryan

 

JL Audio 10w7

one of my buddies has this in his e30 and it pounds....excellent quality. i believe this is the best sub money can buy.

this sub pounds. i personally did not go with this model because i want to have an equal balance. this sub would overwhelm everything.

-chris

_________________

Mods: Tint (35%), 17" Enkei RPM2, Supersprint Exhaust, H&R Springs, H-Sport Front & Rear Sway Bars -- Soon to be Mods: Black aero grills --
Maybe Mods: BBK, Intake

 

Here's a 10" sub with a 2.2" mounting depth!

Cheers,

James

 

give these a look ( a .25 sealed enclosure for a 10"! and .65 for a 12&quot ; the IDQ10D2 V .2 looks to fit the box size requirments image dynamicsalso this is the lowest price i've foundsubsale.....{use 10" or dual 8"?} ...the 10" ( less phase/damping problems; can crossover lower ie. hide it's location better = more accurate sound )





_________________
Where's my cake Bedillia!

 

If you don't mind loosing your rear fill, looking behind the factory 6X9 mount holes, there's has got to be at least .75 to 1 cuft of airspace. With just a little bit of trimming, you could easily mount a couple of 10's there, completely stealth. I have a couple of old 10" drivers still in their new boxes... I may try it someday if I can find the time. I'm still addicted to the AudioBahn 6x9 separates that I'm using as subs.

 

does anyone know how much clearance there is behind the rear quarter panels? i think that would be an ideal place to put some small sealed enclosures, but i'm doubting theres enough depth for 10's

fabian

 

Probably not enough depth for high-performance 10" drivers with huge motors. But for moderately sized drivers, I'd estimate there is room. I had my panels off and installed some new drivers in the factory location a couple months ago, and remember there is surprising amount of room in there. I'd estimate 7" of depth and at least a cubic foot of airspace. The area behind the factory 6X9" is sealed. Were I to install 10's, I would trim out the factory steel and top mount the 10's. I may still do this in the future, but for now, the component Audiobahn 6X9's I installed work great-- I'm running them as subs at 100w each and crossed over at 80hz.

Have a look at my install and review: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=24399

I'd say its worth pulling your panel off and having a look-see.
regards,

 

I was measuring the space behind the 6x9s recently - there is 6" depth from the inner skin to the outer skin, and a maximum 12" x 12" space - so about half cubic foot.

BluMiniMe,
You say the area is sealed already - how did you confirm that? It looked to me like part of the space went off past the rear wheel well and I could not see if it was sealed there ...
Also, at the bottom of the speaker space was a plastic piece, glued in place, to seal the bottom of the space. Did not look like a robust seal.

 

GBmini,

I have recieved your email and will send you a couple of photos today

Depth is not the problem when putting subs in the 6X9 location.
The diameter of cut out is the issue. I don't think it would be possible to mount 10's, unless a spacer was used. This would require modifing the plastic trim panel and using a diferent speaker grille. A spacer can be no thicker than 1/4" with a top mount speaker. Even then stand offs were necessary to push the trim out slightly.

I am happy with my ED 9kv2's (8"). They are a cut above the TB 6X9's that preceded them. Truly sealing the enclosure probably helped the most.
The subs are getting 400 watts 4ohms bridged.

I love that they are completly stealth, with the amp under the driver's seat and no loss of boot space.

Ann

 

Thank you

For anyone else - here are the two pics sent to me ...

 

Nice install and a great idea!!!

Can you give us more details on how you sealed the enclosure? :smile:

 

I browsed MINIUSA.COM and found a picture (or video-can't remember) of MINIs on the assembly line before the outter skin/fender was welded on. In the picture you can clearly see that there is more airspace to the rear of the 6x9 mount location, and it looks to me to be sealed from the interior of the cabin.

 

Sorry, but it isn't really sealed.
In addition to the plastic on the lower back part, there is a piece of foam stuffed into the open area to the rear. the area at the front upper edge connects into the seatbelt retractor mechanism.

The easiest way to describe how I sealed it is to loosely imagine a foam rubber donut covered with a fiberglass cloth sleeve. This was soaked in resin then pushed into place at the outer edges of the opening. Once it was set I applied additional layers of resin, then coated the inside of the cavity with liquid sound deadener.
There is also a coat of this liquid deadener on the inner panels of the car as well as mat deadener on the floor of the car. Probably overkill, but then I also have a Magnaflow....

The hardest part of my install was figuring out how to remove the accellerater(sic) for carepet removal.

Ann