I'm not going to go out and buy this stuff tomorrow, but I want to start getting an idea of what all i'll need to do and save up for.

I have a 2009 JCW and love it to death. The stock sound system (it is cheap ) is a bit lacking.

What I'm thinking about doing right now is to add an amp, replace speakers and a small sub for a good system. Doesn't have to be amazing and show quality, just enough with good tone and bass.

1. Should I worry about getting the harness from newminiparts.com that gives you a plug and play amp setup? It is 60 euros i believe and goes in the driver footwell and allows you to use the factory leads --> amp --> existing wiring to speakers.

2. What amp do you think would suit me best? 4 channel x 50?

3. What is the easiest way to wire in the sub? I've done searches but can't find anything that outlines it too well.

4. For my fronts, should I go with a component system (a mid + a surface mount tweeter)?

So in summary
I'd like to add an amp + new speakers. Something affordable to just make it acceptable soundings.
I'd like a trunk mounted sub that's most likely 10". How would I go about wiring it? Seperate sub amp?

 

First of all we need to know which "stock" system you have as there is more that one "stock" (meaning not aftermarket) system.

Base system or HiFi system. HiFi will have tweeters in the A-Pillars.

I would go with a 5 channel amp that has a 'sub' output on it so that it just handles all the sub wiring for the inputs, then all you need is a pair of wires from the amp 'sub' output to the sub itself. Soemthing like an Alpine PDX-5 would work well.

As for the fronts a nice component set would work well. 3 way if yo already have tweeters in the A-Pillar or 2 way if you do not.

 

Oopps! sorry Schatzy! I meant stock as in the Base. I thought that was implied- shows my ignorance. So the Alpine PDX-5 looks cool. Very user friendly it seems. How would you advise tying it into my current system?

 

I sprung for the newministuff loom and Kenwood KAC-8405 amp and have not regretted it. The fit is perfect - it took under an hour to install, it eliminates the channels with the imposed frequency cutoff, and sounds great. I also like the fans since it is in a tight space under the seat / cover. It stays absolutely cool - just a bit above room temp. Like many, I used the SST Soundstorm (or Boss) powered sub, I like it but I am sure built in sub with a 5 channel amp would sound better as Schatzky suggests. I also use the JBL MS-2 between my iPhone and the Aux input - it really helps to raise the sound level and and it can go with me from car to car. I also used Dynamat throughout the rear of the car (it's the time to do it if you plan to replace the rears) and the wheel wells.

 

okay so let's say i go the newminiparts route. How much was it shipped to your door? Then around 180$ for the 4 channel amp
Then I get some nice front components and some nice 6x9's for the rear.

How would I go about tying a sub into this system if i wanted more bass? How did you link in your powered sub since the amp doesn't have a sub pre out?

 

You might be better off doing a front 2 channel upgrade and leave the rears alone to begin with. Then you could consider the results and then decide if you want to do more. That's what I did and I haven't heard any system that sounds better than mine. I put the money I would have spent on rear speakers and got the best speaker system on the market for my front channel.

BTW only consider using the front channel to drive everything because the rear channel is crap. Many DIY systems I've heard don't sound that good. I think the problem comes down to poor component choices. There are alot of components that just don't sound good in a MINI.

I would highly recommend the stuf from newministuff. I used their kickwell splice and HIFI A pillar covers to wire in the Kenwood KA-7205 (170wpc)amp and the Focal 165VR3 3 way component system I have in my Clubman. The amp and x-overs are under the passanger seat and I ran new wires for the speakers.

Must people don't think my system needs a sub but I have met with Kevin at IA to talk about putting one in my car. I recommend you talk with him about your project before you do anything. Kevin is kind of a genius... maybe not a genius but the guy really knows his s**t. Besides his phenominal subwoofers he also has a couple of complete soundsystem upgrade packages that he calls "Soundstage Systems". He has designed these "Soundstage Systems" specificly for the mini and they include everything you need from speakers and the amp the wiring etc. Everything you need for a complete pro quality install.

I would definetly give Kevin a call if I were you, at the very least you'll get a bit of an education.

Good Luck with whatever you do!

 

I wouldn't touch the rears. At all. There's no reason. They don't contribute in any way, shape, or form to the tonality of the car. I'd get the newmini harness that goes behind the HU, not the kickwell version for one reason, it already has a remote turn-on lead for the amp. Well, ok maybe two reasons, I think it's a cleaner install as well.

For simplicity, a good 2-way set for the front and your sub of choice in the rear is really all you need for better sound and for a beginner, is far easier to tune. I'd do something like a JL HD900/5 because you can bi-amp the front components or bridge the 4 main channels and have more power for the fronts. I'd bi-amp. For the sub, Alpine's new flat Type-Rs, the 8 in particular, are amazing and don't take up much space. You'll be overpowering the living **** out of the 8, but you could run a pair or even 4 if you want. :D JL's new TW3 flat subs would be a great option as well. The 10" or 12" would be an easy install.

What kind of budget did you have in mind?

Oh, and the stuff at newmini is priced in Pounds Sterling, NOT Euros so make sure you take that into account.

 

i really didn't have a budget set. I was more planning a budget so to speak. I wanted to figure out what i needed to buy and an affordable, yet quality setup

 

That depends on your definition of "affordable". I generally don't play around with prepackaged 3-way sets under a grand but most people think I'm insane for being in that range.

Other questions are:
How loud do you want this to get?
How much space are you willing to give up?
What kind of music do you listen to?
A budget, even if it's just a starting point, is helpful as well. Otherwise I'm going to price you into the moon.

 

Just thought I'd mention here that our new kits will already include a factory T-harness for the footwell, remote turn-on included!

Take a look at our installation instructions for our kit (on our website under the "Installation" tab of the product page for the subwoofer system). These will change with the new wiring harness, but while the old kit is still up there it has a wiring chart.

Thanks for the kind words!

 

Depends on the exchange rate. Get their cost + shipping - then enter into a Google search window $(Cost + Shipping) to pounds. This will convert it at the current rate
Sounds a little high - the amp I bought is currently $115 on Amazon
Definitely the fronts. The rears are optional - This is a point of much conflict - I won't open the can - but as stated you can definitely start with the fronts, fade forward and see what you think. If you are happy - use the rear inputs for the sub. However - if you do decide to do the rears - plan on using dynamat or some other deadener. This is a PITA (not hard, but long and labor intensive - you will basically strip the cars interior all the way to the front seats) but you should only have to do it once. That's why I recommend the dynamat at the same time.
You tap either the front or rear (the loom eliminates any issues with frequency cut off) either at the x9331 or the loom itself. Use the high level inputs on the sub (the loom uses these as well).

It really comes down to budget. I have invested about 60% of the cost of a Integral Audio system, but I will definitely not rule out replacing it all with one of their systems one day - mainly due to the highly professional look and rave reviews of other NAM'ers. There's a lot to be said for tuning - It's not easy with amps under seats that have an airbag that cannot be disconnected with the battery engaged. I cheat a bit with the JBL MS-2, but the fact that IA has done all this specifically for the MINI is worth a lot of $$$ in my opinion. If I had it all to do again - I'd wait till I could budget for the IA system.

 

Give Kevin at IA audio your credit card number and he will send you everything you need to make your mini sound incredible!

 

He would never send me anything there is not that much room on my credit card

And as for $180 being high. That is not really high for a quality 4-5 channel amp in fact that is on the low end. I would not want a 4-5 channel amp that costs $115, it probably sounds worse that what is in the car already.

 

It's the exact amp you get from newministuff if you order their turn-key solution. It happens to fit perfectly in the space under the seat. Yes - it's entry level, but everyone I know that has bought it loves it. BTW - it's $128 now. I got it for $115.
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kac-84...=pd_sbs_misc_1

 

Kevin, do you make the T-harness to sell seperately?

 

I see the Kenwood Kac-8405 on Amazon or $128 no tax and free shipping. Good amp and a Good deal!

Newministuf uses the Kenwood amps because they have "signal sensing power on" so you can use the kickwell speaker splice loom. That's the way they do upgrades because it involves the least messing with the stock wiring and the least potential for warranty problems. This is what I did for these same reasons.

BTW, I recommend against ever using the rear channel to drive anything. The rear channel on the standard "Boost" head unit is severely compromised because the signal is rolled off below about 100 Hz.

This problem cannot be fixed with any wiring solution regardless what anyone tells you. The only way to correct this problem is to access the car's central computer with the NCS Expert system and make the changes to the car's base programming. You can look for more information on this subject elsewhere in the electrical forum sections.

Once again, Good Luck!

 

There are a LOT of amps that will fit under the seats that are of MUCH higher quality than that Kenwood. JL HDs (like I'm running), JL XDs, Arc KS -series Minis, Massive Audio NX-series, Alpine PDXs, Kenwood's Excelon amps, and so many more. I would take every single one of these over that Kenwood any day of the week. The Massive Audio amps put out an incredible amount of power in a very small package but have limited crossovers. The Alpine and JL crossovers are more flexible.
Using "signal sensing" amps is silly, especially since there is a remote turn-on signal right there in the kick panel where you're picking up audio signal!

 

Not to be argumentative, but the newministuff loom eliminates the rear channel altogether from the head unit. it feeds the front signals to both the front and rear inputs on the amp. Only downside is it eliminates the ability to fade. My comments were assuming the loom is in use - so you can use either set of inputs for a sub with no signal cutoff.

 

You can request them to keep the fader intact. Yes you'll be high-passed on the rears (unless you have NCS Expert to recode the HU) but that's not a big deal. Depending on your plans for the rest of the system, that high-pass might be a good thing.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by euells

Not to be argumentative, but the newministuff loom eliminates the rear channel altogether from the head unit. it feeds the front signals to both the front and rear inputs on the amp. Only downside is it eliminates the ability to fade. My comments were assuming the loom is in use - so you can use either set of inputs for a sub with no signal cutoff.

Not to be argumentative, but that’s not what you said.

Quote:

Originally Posted by euells

Definitely the fronts. The rears are optional - This is a point of much conflict - I won't open the can - but as stated you can definitely start with the fronts, fade forward and see what you think. If you are happy - use the rear inputs for the sub.

And just so everyone is clear… not all newministuf looms eliminate the use of the rear channel and use the front channel only.

I get a little prickly when someone tries to correct me when I'm not incorrect! Sorry

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by euells

Not to be argumentative, but the newministuff loom eliminates the rear channel altogether from the head unit. it feeds the front signals to both the front and rear inputs on the amp. Only downside is it eliminates the ability to fade. My comments were assuming the loom is in use - so you can use either set of inputs for a sub with no signal cutoff.

Not to be argumentative, but that’s not what you said.

Quote:

Originally Posted by euells

Definitely the fronts. The rears are optional - This is a point of much conflict - I won't open the can - but as stated you can definitely start with the fronts, fade forward and see what you think. If you are happy - use the rear inputs for the sub.

And just so everyone is clear… not all newministuf looms eliminate the use of the rear channel and use the front channel only.

Sorry but I get a little prickly when someone tries to correct me when I'm not incorrect!

 

I don't really understand your point - but I didn't mean to offend in anyway. I was unaware that newministuff looms were "configurable". However - My response stated that the loom eliminates the issue (at least the one I ordered) and your response said there was no way to fix this other than a computer hack. So we were both right and wrong. Lets call it a draw!

 

Not to beat a dead horse but simply running two outputs off the front channel does not change the signal roll off problem with the Boost system's rear channel in any way.

Regardless of how the loom is wired it is not actually changing the rear channel's signal output. As such, any wiring loom does not, as you stated, "eliminate the issue"! At best it's a crude but effective "work around" that creates other problems of its own.

As I stated in my previous post regarding this issue, a correction of this signal roll off problem can only be accomplished through a change in the car's headunit programming at the dealer or using the NCS Expert system.

If you are going to try to be a credible source of information you need to be accurate. If you are going to try to correct others you need to be both precise and accurate.

So bottom line, technically I am correct and you are not. I'll leave it at that! Cheers

 

.Dude - if it makes you feel better about yourself - I concede. You are technically correct. Your credibility is intact. Can we move on now?