Navigation & Audio Tapping into x9331 on a Hifi system
#1
Tapping into x9331 on a Hifi system
Hi all,
The packages for my sub install are finally arriving, so looks like I will be doing it next week. I remember reading mixed opinions on whether the signal on a Hifi system coming from the x9331 connector was speaker level or not.
I was planning on tapping into the front speaker signals there to go to my PAC LC-2 (volume **** / line level converter), then run the RCAs back to the amp in the boot.
Is it ok to tap into the x9331 on a Hifi system there and then go to a LOC, or should I tap into the amped signal coming from the hifi amp? The x9331 would be preferable since it is up front where my LC-2 wants to live, but I would rather just have my MINI apart once instead of twice, lol.
Thanks!
The packages for my sub install are finally arriving, so looks like I will be doing it next week. I remember reading mixed opinions on whether the signal on a Hifi system coming from the x9331 connector was speaker level or not.
I was planning on tapping into the front speaker signals there to go to my PAC LC-2 (volume **** / line level converter), then run the RCAs back to the amp in the boot.
Is it ok to tap into the x9331 on a Hifi system there and then go to a LOC, or should I tap into the amped signal coming from the hifi amp? The x9331 would be preferable since it is up front where my LC-2 wants to live, but I would rather just have my MINI apart once instead of twice, lol.
Thanks!
#4
I looked through all of the speaker/upgrade posts and am still confused. Perhaps someone can give me a good answer to save me some time...
Are the rear speakers in the hifi system (after being amp'd) bass handicapped? I know the regular non-hifi system has 100Hz or something cutoff at the rear speakers which makes no sense, but does the hifi? I noticed one guy put Focals in the rear speaker spots but it seems like a waste of time if they're so handicapped as far as bass goes.
Thanks!
Are the rear speakers in the hifi system (after being amp'd) bass handicapped? I know the regular non-hifi system has 100Hz or something cutoff at the rear speakers which makes no sense, but does the hifi? I noticed one guy put Focals in the rear speaker spots but it seems like a waste of time if they're so handicapped as far as bass goes.
Thanks!
#5
Thanks David, I think I will be ok even with going through the LOC instead of straight to the amp's high level inputs. I was just worrying myself for no reason, lol.
Brohammer, I really have no idea. Kevin with Integral Audio may know since they have the frequencies of the fronts, they may have checked out the backs too. Maybe not, but it is worth a shot sending him a PM.
Brohammer, I really have no idea. Kevin with Integral Audio may know since they have the frequencies of the fronts, they may have checked out the backs too. Maybe not, but it is worth a shot sending him a PM.
#6
#7
I read the instructions for the Integral audio sub and it looks like they tap into the rear speaker wires to the sub, I'm just wondering about replacing my 6x9s while I'm doing the sub install and I want to know if its even worth it if the speakers are going to be gimped
Also, the 100Hz cutoff on the non-hifi is actually on the front speakers, so switching the front/rear signals on those systems gets you the frequencies below 100Hz up front, instead of in the rear.
Good luck!
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#9
Bass cut off is only on the Base Radio System. HiFi does not have the cut off.
But if you are going to add a sub make sure you DO NOT use the output of the amp. The levels are way to high for normal LOC's and they have played with the frequency response on the output to accommodate for speaker variances.
Either use the X9931 or a newministuff harness that plugs into the back of the head unit. Using the input wiring to the amp is okay but the wires are very small and there are a lot of them in the harness and it is very easy to break one or more of them.
But if you are going to add a sub make sure you DO NOT use the output of the amp. The levels are way to high for normal LOC's and they have played with the frequency response on the output to accommodate for speaker variances.
Either use the X9931 or a newministuff harness that plugs into the back of the head unit. Using the input wiring to the amp is okay but the wires are very small and there are a lot of them in the harness and it is very easy to break one or more of them.
#11
Just to reiterate/clarify:
1) HiFi signal from HU to Amp is flat and unmodified. You can tap anywhere in front of the X10266 (amp connector). Do NOT pull the signal AFTER it leaves the amp.
2) Standard audio signal (Boost/Wave) to rears is artificially limited (in the HU) below about 100Hz.
Also, a strong word of caution to folks planning on using LOC's. All LOC's vary widely in quality, and passive LOC's can have a significant negative impact on sound quality that is proportional to the quality of the components. You are much better off using an amplifier that has more substantial input circuitry and doesn't require an LOC. The fewer pieces in your signal chain, the better.
1) HiFi signal from HU to Amp is flat and unmodified. You can tap anywhere in front of the X10266 (amp connector). Do NOT pull the signal AFTER it leaves the amp.
2) Standard audio signal (Boost/Wave) to rears is artificially limited (in the HU) below about 100Hz.
Also, a strong word of caution to folks planning on using LOC's. All LOC's vary widely in quality, and passive LOC's can have a significant negative impact on sound quality that is proportional to the quality of the components. You are much better off using an amplifier that has more substantial input circuitry and doesn't require an LOC. The fewer pieces in your signal chain, the better.
#12
Thanks for the reply Kevin. I was concerned about the negative impact of the LOC on sound quality as well, especially since there are so few reviews of the PAC LC-2 available.
Since my amp can take high level inputs, I am still torn on using the LOC. The install would be much simpler skipping it, but then I would not have a remote volume **** for the sub, a feature I used quite a bit in my last car.
I guess the only way to find out is to try it, and if it sounds like poo then take the LOC out and run the high level inputs all the way to the amp.
Since my amp can take high level inputs, I am still torn on using the LOC. The install would be much simpler skipping it, but then I would not have a remote volume **** for the sub, a feature I used quite a bit in my last car.
I guess the only way to find out is to try it, and if it sounds like poo then take the LOC out and run the high level inputs all the way to the amp.
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