Hey folks, I just did the channel swap - it was SUPER easy, but only AFTER I read all 17 pages of the original post. Thus, I'm going to summarize what I found most helpful. YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO THE MOLEX TOOL/ DREMEL TOOL mod stuff. You can easily release the FEMALE connectors.

1.) Start by reading the incredible post by k6rtm (page one) only.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ust-do-it.html

2.) Open up the panel right above the hood release by pulling it towards you and out.

3.) Access X9331 - it's the one with the WHITE plastic casing attached to a bigger black connector casing. Very obvious once you open the panel up.

4.) Prepare to release the female connectors (no special tools needed). Start be using a screw driver to release the outside casing (credit goes to Wsalopex):

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/2846598-post398.html


5.) Release the female connectors from the connector casing simply by pushing a 5/32 torx tool or allen wrench or pulling with needle nose pliers

6.) Perform the swap according to the original guide - remember that BL stands for BLUE.

7.) Reconnect X9331 connector, put everything away and your good to go!

 

I think I read all 17 pages of the original post (or skimmed most of them anyhow). I just have one basic question about the entire concept. If it is covered in an earlier post, I apologize, ADD probably got to me half way through the earlier thread.

As I understand it, the entire premise behind this is the present door speakers are not able to produce decent bass because they are very crappy speakers. The less crappy rear speakers can do a much better job with bass, but a cut-off sees that they don't get any low frequencies.

The swap simply sends low frequencies to the less crappy rear speakers so the sound quality is much better. The circuit with the cut-off goes to the door speakers.

If I got that right, won't I get as good a result, or better, just upgrading the door speakers to high quality speakers? I would think even though they are smaller, it would be easy to get after market door speakers much more capable of delivering good bass than the only less crappy OEM rear speakers.

Am I missing something basic about the swap? If all the speakers were substantially upgraded, would you still recommend doing it? Since I intend to upgrade all the speakers, is there as much benefit to doing this as there is with all OEM speakers?

 

To remove the X9331 connector from the car wall, rotate it 45 degrees counterclockwise. That is counterclockwise if your head is jammed against the brake pedal, your feet are tangled in the driver's seat hedrest, and you are looking towards the X9331 connector.

It isn't quality, it is quantity. The larger 6x9 speakers can produce bass better than the 150mm door speakers.

...If all the speakers were substantially upgraded, would you still recommend doing it? Since I intend to upgrade all the speakers, is there as much benefit to doing this as there is with all OEM speakers?[/QUOTE]
Even with high quality speakers a larger speaker will produce bass better than a small one.

An alternative to doing the swap is to add a subwoofer, such as the Bass600. Pick up signal for it at the X9331 connector and get power from the rear cig socket.

 

I'd also add that you will probably find the sound good enough after the swap that you won't want to spend the extra money on upgrades. The fronts sounded a lot clearer after they stopped receiving the <100mhz frequency that they can't produce. This is such a cheap and easy upgrade that it should be done first.

Secondly I doubt you'd find an aftermarket 6" that can produce better bass than the stock 6x9.

If you're stuck on adding tweeters, etc, I'd do the swap and then upgrade the fronts for improved spatial response.

 

A little clarification

The stock front and rear speakers are both garbage. The difference in frequency response does not come from the speaker itself alone, though. It comes mainly from the headunit. Mini, in their infinite wisdom, build the headunit so that the front speakers are getting the full range, but the rears have a cutoff that does not allow them to output typical 6x9 bass frequencies.

What does this mean?

It means that no matter what speakers you get, your headunit is going to output the full range to the fronts and the same bassless frequencies to the rears, unless you are willing to spend some real money.

Here are your options:

* Get new front speakers. They will sound worlds better than the stock ones. I have JL Audio Evolution C2 650 components in the front, and they are goddamn fantastic. They are efficient enough that you don't need an amp, but they will really come alive with an amp.

* Get new front & rear speakers. This will not make a huge difference over just replacing the fronts, but it is a good step if you intend to go further. Swap channels.

* Get new front speakers, rear speakers, and an amp. Swap channels. This is where you're going to notice a giant difference over the stock setup. What this will do is send the full range of frequencies to the rear speakers so the 6x9s can do what they're supposed to do. The fronts will now have less bass, but same midrange and highs.

* After the above step, install a processor and swap the channels back to stock. I've liked the idea of the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2. It'll combine the frequencies from all the headunit's channels, then distribute them properly. This means that each speaker is getting every frequency it is built to handle, as long as the headunit outputs that frequency somewhere, which it probably does.

This setup will give you everything that a full aftermarket stereo would give you, while retaining all the Mini's functionality. It will also not take up any extra room that a subwoofer setup would. If you're still not happy with the amount of bass you're getting, then you go the subwoofer route.

It's an expensive process, yes. You can skip the processor and go straight to subs, but that takes up valuable cargo space. Do what your budget allows and see if your local car audio place has done any Mini Coopers. I was lucky enough to find a guy who is the lead installer at a reputable place and he owns a Cooper. He gave me loads of info that I've been able to share with people here. Hope it helps.

 

To clarify, this is talking about the standard audio. The HIFI option does not have the bass filtration done in the head unit. The filtration is done in or after the HIFI amp in the rear. So, the X9331 connector is not filtered.

If you add an amp with the HIFI system, you don't need to swap channels. Nor do you need a processor. Just get the signal from the X9331 connector.

 

Indeed, yes. I neglected to mention that the information I gave is for standard audio only. Sorry to confuse. I sort of wish that I went for the HiFi system, not for the extra and better speakers, but for the easier upgrading. Replace the speakers and amp, and you've got a seriously smokin' audio system. Going with HiFi would essentially save money because you don't need the processor to achieve truly great sound.

 

The $500 cost of the HIFI would mostly be offset by not needing the processor. I think the main advantages are the simplification, and not having to have processed signals unprocessed.