Navigation & Audio The music died...or did i blow a fuse??
The music died...or did i blow a fuse??
Driving home today and the music stopped playing...cd player is still on and the cig lighter still works...external loc still sees power..and the subwoofer amp is powered on...but:
1. no music
2. no seatbelt chime
3. aux volume selector will not increase or decrease.
so i am either going to be replacing a fuse...or the OEM amp if it is not fused.
Any ideas?
1. no music
2. no seatbelt chime
3. aux volume selector will not increase or decrease.
so i am either going to be replacing a fuse...or the OEM amp if it is not fused.
Any ideas?
your amp is getting ready to go. I just had a guy come in today that was having issues with his radio. His radio still worked properly and he had no issues with power. We swaped the amp with a known good one and the radio came right back.
your amp is going. theres a panel on the right side of your trunk open it and youll have your amp its to screws and a 10 mill. if you want to save a buck track down the amps manufacture and see if you can find the same unit. should save you a ton
your amp is going. theres a panel on the right side of your trunk open it and youll have your amp its to screws and a 10 mill. if you want to save a buck track down the amps manufacture and see if you can find the same unit. should save you a ton
your amp is getting ready to go. I just had a guy come in today that was having issues with his radio. His radio still worked properly and he had no issues with power. We swaped the amp with a known good one and the radio came right back.
your amp is going. theres a panel on the right side of your trunk open it and youll have your amp its to screws and a 10 mill. if you want to save a buck track down the amps manufacture and see if you can find the same unit. should save you a ton
your amp is going. theres a panel on the right side of your trunk open it and youll have your amp its to screws and a 10 mill. if you want to save a buck track down the amps manufacture and see if you can find the same unit. should save you a ton
Going out to look under that panel now...
the loc?
if you splice anything into your speakers theres a good chance your going to pop your amp. they are designed to run on a specific resistanceand by adding a componet you are adding 0hm's. extra ohm's means added amps, heat, death, mealting.....
soory :(
if you splice anything into your speakers theres a good chance your going to pop your amp. they are designed to run on a specific resistanceand by adding a componet you are adding 0hm's. extra ohm's means added amps, heat, death, mealting.....
soory :(
your amp is getting ready to go. I just had a guy come in today that was having issues with his radio. His radio still worked properly and he had no issues with power. We swaped the amp with a known good one and the radio came right back.
your amp is going. theres a panel on the right side of your trunk open it and youll have your amp its to screws and a 10 mill. if you want to save a buck track down the amps manufacture and see if you can find the same unit. should save you a ton
your amp is going. theres a panel on the right side of your trunk open it and youll have your amp its to screws and a 10 mill. if you want to save a buck track down the amps manufacture and see if you can find the same unit. should save you a ton
The head unit has speaker short protection in it.
By changing the speakers in the car with speaker of the same impedance rating or even a higher impedance you will not over work the amp. The OEM speakers in the Standard system are 4 ohms each and wired in parallel this makes the amp see a 2 ohm load. The head unit is designed for this.
Now if you were to put in lower impedance speakers such as 2 ohm and wire them in parallel then the amp would be seeing a 1 ohm load. This would most likely send the amp into protection mode after some period of time as it warmed up. Then after it cooled down it would start working again. Now with the high temps of summer it may be that the amp very quickly goes into protection mode. If you do not use the AC then there is no cooling for the head unit. If you use the AC it cools the radio down (yes there is a AC tube that goes to the radio to keep it cool) then it will start working again.
miniSQ what speakers did you put in your car?
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amp and subwoofers are a pair of 8ohm Trio8's bridged using a clarion amp to 4 ohm.
2 things i did while driving almost immediately before the factory sound shut down was i faded the rear speakers back in and bumped the bass on the HU up 2 clicks. I was listening to the music fairly loud....
BUt i had been listening really loud all week with no problems....until i faded some rear fill back in...
2 things i did while driving almost immediately before the factory sound shut down was i faded the rear speakers back in and bumped the bass on the HU up 2 clicks. I was listening to the music fairly loud....
BUt i had been listening really loud all week with no problems....until i faded some rear fill back in...
Usually a LOC will read 0ohms or infinite with a multimeter because it does not "present a load" MiniSQ take it for what it is worth but sometimes the mini decks do strange things.. Mine will read my ipod and then it won't and then it will do it again. I couldn't adjust my volume once as well and I shut the car down then it worked fine. They just do strange things at times lol
I may have stumbled onto a possible cause yesterday....The LOC iam using is the david navone loc...and it may just be passing TOO high a signal for the amp and speakers.
I have the clarion amp set to the 2v-8v setting and the gain somewhat low.
But i had the crossover maybe set a little too high and i may have a leaky box...this all led to me potential over driving the subs.
The song i was listenign to when it all stopped was 'CornBread" by dave matthews...it has a pretty decent kick drum in the beginning.
I tried playing that same kick drum at the same level yesterday and this time i was out of the vehicle watchign the subs...and they were definately being over driven...sonically it sounded great....but i think the potential was there that i may have bottomed the driver...
If this happened maybe i threw a short back to the deck and threw it into protect mode? The removing the fuses reset it?
Its just a thought////
Tomorrow i am going to take the loc out and see how the amp handles just the speaker level inputs.
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