So I have the HiFi system and noticed that I have at least one blown OEM speaker. I don't want to go crazy spending too much $ but here's what I'm thinking.

InfinityKappa 60.9cs ($140 shipped) for the 6.5" spot - this component also comes with tweeters that I may try to swap depending on if I can stick the crossovers behind the armrest or not...I think someone was able to do this but I can't find that thread again...

Infinity Reference 4022i ($55) for the 4" spot and a SoundStorm USS8 ($130) for the boot

What do you think?

 

Here's the thing... the Infinity Kappas are frickin' awesome speakers, but you HAVE to put a decent amp on them (i.e., probably something other than the factory amp).

On the flip side... I had a 9 speaker Infinity Reference system on my R50 WITHOUT an amp (except on the sub) and they sounded phenomenal when they were cranked up.

Personally, I would go with the Reference all around. Your factory amp should work great with them and they'll sound amazing at a fraction of the cost. I also really liked my Infinity Reference sub on a Fostgate 900w amp. Great sound.

 

Yeah I was thinking about the reference speakers for the 6.5" spot but the reference components 6020cs are $120 vs the kappa 60.9cs for $140 - I was figuring for the extra $20 to go with the better speakers.

If I don't do component in the 6.5" spot I'm going to end up with 3 tweeters......one in the Apillar, one in the 4" 4022i's and then one in the 6022i (would be substituted for the 6020cs or the 60.9cs)

Yeah if I'm going to invest in an amp and run 8 gauge back there I'd go with the roadstersound enclosure but don't want to spend the $300 w/o woofer or $500 w/ woofer on it. You don't think there's enough power for the kappas?

I do appreciate your input and welcome future suggestions as well.

 

There might be enough power for the Kappas, I just don't know how much power that stock amp is cranking out. Also, I kinda like keeping the overall feel and sound of the stereo consistent using the same grade/quality of speakers. If the amp can handle it, I would do Kappas all around. But I'm not sure how much more that would cost.

You should also look into Memphis Car Audio. My local audio shop turned me on to them a couple weeks ago. They sound really great.

 

Nice timing on this thread. I just got mine and already am disappointed with the stereo. I ordered the same sub for the boot. Now just trying to figure out the rest of the speakers.

Do most people leave the rears connected? I'd like to replace the 4's, 6's, and tweeters up front for a start. Then I'd upgrade the rear speakers as well. Probably not as high end but still a step up.

Also, dumb question - where are the 10 total speakers? I get 2 per door, 1 perf a-pillar, and 1 per rear set side. Double that for the other side and that puts me at 8. Where are the other two?

 

The rears are supposed to be a real pain to get at... I'm thinking of just doing the fronts, myself.

Also, for the 10 total speakers, I think they count the woofer and tweeter as two separate speakers, even though they're contained in the same housing.

 

Since the stock speakers are 2 ohms from what I understand, is it wise to replace them with 2 ohm speakers? What do you think would happen to the overall sound if you replaced them with 4 ohm speakers all around?

 

Yes I'm only doing the fronts b/c the signal to the rears cuts off and there is not much bass coming from them. If I didn't have the HiFi, I'd do the swap at the X9331 connector. And in terms of the 10 speakers you are correct fishbert.

If you replace with 4 ohm speakers then you are losing some power from the amp b/c it will take more juice to power them...Ohms are a resistance - the less the better.

I'm still on the fence about the kappa components 60.9cs - I hope there's enough power from the stock amp to drive them.

 

The bass frequencies are not cut off to the rear speakers in the HiFi equipped Mini's only in the Non HiFi. This has been proven by extensive testing with audio gear by myself and a few others.

I changed the rears in my car to Infinity Kapps and the bass came back. Not as much as i wanted but it did increase significantly.


To some extent true but putting 2 ohm speakers on an amp that is not rated for them will burn the amp out as it is drawing to much current from the amp. The amp in the mini is rated to drive a 2 ohm load but is also designed and WILL drive 4 ohm speakers with the same rate output. It is a design of the amp.

The Kappas would be your best bet IMHO.

 

You'all need to go to onlinecarstereo.com for better prices for your speakers. I just ordered Infinity Kappa 62.9is for $85.00 pr and 42.9 for $89.00 pr.

 

The rears are two speakers to each side, the 6x9 woofer mounted to the body, and the tweeter which is mounted to the interior body panel in front of the woofer, not in the same housing.

 

Yes I plan on getting the soundstorm uss8 from there for $130 and my 4022i for $55 from there but the 60.9cs are $140 on amazon vs $170 on ocs.

The reason I chose the 4022i over the 42.9 is b/c of the external crossover - see this pic http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...0Kappa%2042.9i

I don't think it will fit w/o hitting the window? Do you know anyone that fit the 42.9 in there? And how come you chose the 62.9is over the 60.9cs (components) - price? In case you didn't see it make sure you used coupon code "fresh09" to save $15 on your order - if not give them a call!

 

Why does it come back with other speakers? I figure you'll have an answer since you seem to know alot w/ your electronics background

 

I decided on those, so far as they were both shallow mounts and we'll see if the external crossovers get in the way. I'm always up for a challenge so will let you know if I run in to problems. Liked the specs on them although they were only slightly better than the 4022i you chose.

 

Well, with what I just learned about the amp and speaker resistance... I think I'll have to agree with Schatzy. Sounds like going all Kappa would be a better bet. If you don't have your heart set on Infinity, keep Memphis Audio and Boston Acoustics in mind as well. If you go with any of these you'll be more than happy. Good luck!

 

Yeah I would prefer the 42.9 over the 4022 but I don't know if they will fit. I am probably going to purchase them this week but don't plan to install until the weather is nice since I don't have a garage.

 

Thank you very much for the coupon code. Just called them and received the $15 off. WOW! .

 

There are a multitude of design specs that can change the efficence of a speaker at different frequencies. These are jsut a few.

1. Air Gap between the coil and magnet. - Smaller is more efficient for all frequencies but lower frequencies are not affected less than high freq.

2. Mass (weight) of the cone compared to the size of the coil - Basic it take more to move more.

3. Edge matrial (surround) and what it is made of - stiff paper surrounds are harder to move at lower frequncies.

4. number of winidings of the coil. To many is not good for high freq and two few is not good for low freq.

5. daimeter of the wire used in the coil - larger diameter will allow higher power, until the weight o the wire over rides the benfit.

6. diameter of the wound coil - Coil diameters affect the freq because of elecromagnetic forces aplied as teh field builds and contracts.

So a large speaker (12" subsoofer) would do better with a 3" coil and larger diameter wire while a tweeter would do better with a 3/8" coil and smaller wire.

It all comes down to a balancing of all the components that make up the speaker. This is why most speakers are rated for efficience, how many db they produce at one watt of input power measured at 3 feet. I.E. somthing that is rated at 92 db is better than something rated a 88 db. Infact 88 db is rather inefficient. The whole problem with this and some of the other rating systems used in stereo equipment is that not all manufactures measure in the same way with the same input parameters. Some use 1 watt at 1 kHz others use 1.833 volts. One watt = 1.833 volts at 1 kHZ across and 8 ohm speaker coil of a certian diameter and number turns. As the turns increase so does the electrical resistance to freq (AC) but not to DC Where 1.833 volts across a two ohm speaker is not the same and is not just 4 times as much.

If you need more explination please let me know.

 

Do you mean at the X9331 or at the speakers? K6rtm tested my HIFI 2007 R56 MCS and and found a drop off somewhere round 100 - 150 Hz, IIRC, at the rear speakers. The X9331 measured at full range for all channels.

 

So the tech at Infinity told me I can not take off the tweeter on the Kappa 42.9i speakers. He also recommended that if I'm not using another amp that I should go with the Reference series.

hmm. thoughts on the Reference 6020cs, Reference 4022i, and the Reference 9622i ?

 

I'm interested in the Reference component series speakers but I don't have an amp. The headunit is a JVC El Kameleon:

http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...on=&langid=EN#

Will I be able to power the Reference speakers with the above mentioned deck? Thanks everyone. This thread has been very informative.

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread at all, but there seem to be a fair amount of experts in here....

Is there a good place to learn about this stuff? I would be interested in just replacing some/all the stock speakers with NO amp. Would this be as "simple" as removing the stock speakers and plugging the new ones into the same wires?

Just curious. I've never dived into car audio before.

 

You can use the existing wires but you will have to connect them to the speakers by either

a) soldering them
b) using a T-tap (which is easiest IMO so I chose that)
c) cutting off the connector and then connecting to the speakers

 

Good. I have a friend with a soldering iron... I'll have to look into some speakers

 

Hey guys,
4 months ago, you two were asking the exact same question I have now...

- I have a Clubman with HiFi (LoFi? It came pre-owned with Sat and HD Radio... they all sound like junk; zero bass and start distorting the minute you crank it up a touch)

- I'm looking for a cheap upgrade to move from a 'D' to a 'B-'... spending just $200 would be great.

- I want something that is braindead simple; no amps, no subs... just replace the existing speakers.

Q1 - Given that the Clubman's 6x9 is easier to replace (I think) than the regular Cooper, should I give that a go and see if it gets me happy enough?

Q2 - Would you recommend OCS or go with Crutchfield (price premium but it seems that they cater to dummies like me a bit better, and I'm not sure if OCS is 'authorized')

Q3 - Did you go for the following speakers... and if so are you happy and on a scale of 1-10 how hard were they to install?

6020cs ? - 6.5" and separate 1" tweeter ($117 at OCS, $139 at Crutchfield)
4022i ? - 4" with built-in tweeter ($55 at OCS, $79 at Crutchfield)
9622i ? - 6x9" with built-in tweeter ($74 at OCS, discontinued on Crutchfield's site; is there a new version?)