for those of you that didnt see in the other thread,

i took the first one out. i really wasn't happy with it once i thought about it. this one, already with the false floor, is coming out alot better. the floor is 2 layers thick. the first layer is bolted with 1/2" x 2.5" bolts in the rear, and up front its tite bonded, and screwed to those 2x4's u see under there. the 2x4's themselves are also bolted to the body with the same bolts.

none-the-less, its very sturdy, and not gonna budge.

the 2nd layer is self explanatory, its to make is 100% level (to cover the bolt heads used to bolt the first layer down)

and to clarify, the cuts i made on the rear cross-member, to get those bolts in (still cant believe i did that) will be getting welded shut by my body shop soon. just wanna throw that out there, becuase i know someones gonna comment on the pic that shows those cuts lol...

anyways, pics-

btw- i havent decided on subs yet. or the exact style of box. im 95% set on doing a ported clam shell, i just gotta see how much space im working with.

 

Nice start. Ever think about JL or Diamond subs for this version?
Can't wait to see more

 

not JL, but i actually did think about diamond. i loved the RE, im just gonna do something different than 1 sub. im gonna have a crazy looking clam shell, i want 6-8, maybe 10, subs.

just to "wow" people


i can guarentee though, this one will be built nice....not sloppy at all...

 

I don;t think you need to worry about that. I'll be extra critical in round 2. Good start though

 

 

Don't forget to run the wire before you get too far.

 

Well, go for it, but learn somethings from last round.

1) Where will the wires go?
2) What will power the peak power demands?
3) Instead of working from the speakers to the power system, why not work from the power system to the speakers? That will minimize the chance that you can't drive what you build.
4) On the last one, it was looking like you were making cardboard templates. Did you stop? There are huge gaps on the base of this one.
5) Did you buy Horowits and Hill, "The Art of Electronics" yet?

Matt

 

Dr.O you have some of the best knowledge available

 

# 3, what do you mean by that?

 

I think he meant to solve your alternator and wiring issues first, along with planning out your configuration(size number and RMS etc...) then start building

 

the alt is gonna be the last thing i do, thats gonna be by far the most money. im gonna run the 0 gauge from the alt to the batteries under the car anyways...i cant run that much 0 gauge thru the side interior trim pieces

ill try today though.

 

Hey, that's cool. I was just giving my interpretation

 

cut out the bottom piece of the box. i need to get more Birch.

 

Those are some nice clean cuts...much better already

 

i didnt get my table saw until 70% of the last build was already done, so most of the others were by hand :(

 

Hey, at least you have it now

 

i cant decide how i want to do this wall. like it was before (angle the front a little for the seats) with 2 15s, or a clam shell type wall...with 6 12s or 8 10s or something, not sure .....

 

but that will be the limit for steady state power delivery. Whatever that is, you should figure this out now.

Depending on the batteries (boo) or ultracapacitors (yeah) that you use, you can generate a voltage vs integrated power (volt-amps times time) to see how much time you can crank it at what RMS power level before your voltage drops too low to fire your amplifiers.

Based on this, knowing the efficiency of your amps, you can choose the amps and then the power capacity of the speakers.

Now I know this is in inverse order to you comfort zone, but think of it as a challenging learning experience.

Matt

ps, got Horowitz and Hill yet?

 

i dont like capacitors, and i wont use them. in the car audio world...90% of the people use batteries...theres no cap thats better than a good dry cell car audio battery.

i wont damage the ams, becuase i have a voltmeter, and i monitor the voltage constantly while its playing...i had a 1500w Sundown audio amp, at 1 ohm, on the STOCK battery, and it never dipped below 12v at idle. while driving it stayed around 13-14v.

plus, i already have the amp for my 6.5s and my tweeters, and i know what amps im getting for the subs.

 

Like talking to a brick wall. I think pimp is going to do what he wants to do regardless of the words of wisdom we have all bestowed.

 

why, becuase im using batteries instead of capacitors? go over the any caraudio forum, see how many people use batts vs caps......

 

If I have to guess I would say he is referring more to not figuring out how much power you are going to be able to your amps before figuring how big or how many subs you want.

But, I am just going to watch, either way what Pimped is doing is really sweet, and if his way works that's great, if it doesnt well then thats to bad.

 

im designing up a box now in sketch-up. the sides are going to be VERY complicated (not really to cut/assemble) but more so measuring/drawing it up in Sketch-Up. once it's drawn up, it will tell me the angles and everything, which there will be alot of angles........

 

Saying "I don't like capacitors" means you know NOTHING about the technology. You can buy capacitors that have higher energy density than lead acid batteries, and less series resistance and inductance. That means that they can change current rate faster with lower voltage change than lead acid batteries. Lead acid batteries are used because they are CHEAP.

Yes, you can spend a lot on a lead acid battery, but if you were to learn a little about electronics and open up the amps that you're so happy of using, guess what's inside to deliver peak power demands of the amplifying transistors (here's a hint, it's a word that starts with C!) The reason that you need more than what's inside is the boxes are too effing small to put enough capacity into them.

Here's an anology, you're talking about building a top fuel dragster and using a one barrel lawn mower carborator. Like all things, you're stereo project is a system, that will only work well if all the parts are well matched.

I've never steered you wrong with any of the advice I've tried to give. Learning a little bit about what powers the sound conversion process (amplifier technology and electronics) WILL yield great benefit in your SPL or whatever projects. While the marketing divisions would like you to believe otherwise, there isn't a lot new in high power amplification. What is new is in low power sound processing (via DSPs and the like) and power supply technology (from switching vs transformers). But high voltage high current stuff hasn't really changed in decades.

Then you will find that you are freed from what "other people do" (if 90% of people hit thier hands with a hammer, would that make it a smart thing to do?) to understanding the fundimental principles of operation so you can do what's best, not just do what some other clueless rube did.

Just some things to think about.....

Matt

 

im just saying with higher powered systems (6kw on just the subs is alot of damn power) no one in the car audio game is using capacitors....