Navigation & Audio R56 Hi-Fi with Infinity Basslink
R56 Hi-Fi with Infinity Basslink
I have a non S 2007 cooper R56 with the HIFI. I want to add a powered sub such as the basslink. My concern is the quality of sound from the sub by installing via the rear speaker inputs. I am apprehensive to the quality by this method, and I looking for some specific feedback by owners who have such a set up with a powered sub. I have had a powered sub on an aftermarket head unit and it sounded incredible. I want that same experience in my mini.
I am aware there are other posts and I have searched using the search button and have not come up with any real answers. Thanks for your time
I am aware there are other posts and I have searched using the search button and have not come up with any real answers. Thanks for your time
since you have the hifi you have all the speaker wires you need to access in the left side of the boot. Read the sticky to find out which wires are the input to the amp for the front speakers. I don't know if you'd want to tap the output of the amp.
What's "the sticky"? Im assuming its a previous post or a specific post. By the way, thank you for your information. It is so great to have access to such a broad pool of knowledge about the R56. Mililani? I used to live in Aiea for about 4 years.
Thanks again
Thanks again
Sticky posts are ones that stick to the top of the forum. Speaker Replacement is the one you want.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=95211
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=95211
I have read the speaker replacement post and its a big fat mess. Its very scattered and I cannot find an answer to this question: If the bass of the rear speakers is poor, then should I tap only the front speakers, or both the front and rear? The basslink has the availability to use 4 speakers as line sources. I would love to hear from someone who has the basslink in an R56 HIFI, and to know how it was installed, how it sounds, and their level of satisfaction. Is a Mini cooper like the hardest car on the market to upgrade the audio?
Well, the rears don't get much bass, so what's the point in using them? All the bass goes to the largest speaker in the door.
I don't know whether the MINI is the hardest, but it is odd and you can void warranty and damage some very expensive electronics if you do the wrong thing to the amp.
I don't know whether the MINI is the hardest, but it is odd and you can void warranty and damage some very expensive electronics if you do the wrong thing to the amp.
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Thanks
Thanks Birdman! That sounds so easy and straight forward. This setup seems like such an easy fix for a sub par HIFI system. For a few hundred dollars you can just add bass and then your good to go. Im assuming you just turn down the bass on the head unit and turn up the gain on the sub? I am a big fan of the basslink and I dont think you can get more bang for your buck. The only issue: how difficult is it going to be to run a power cable from the battery? Another question: there are many posts referring to a voided warranty by upgrading the audio and potentially damaging the system. What are your thoughts about that?
If you just attach wires to the speaker inputs before the amp, nothing will be void, don't worry about it. They are talking about making big changes...
Running a power wire from battery is easy, there is a port to get thru the firewall right behind the battey, come down the kick panel and then run it across the door sill. Piece of cake.
And I agree, the problem with the hifi is mainly lack of BASS. But they also should be using better speaker than paper.
Running a power wire from battery is easy, there is a port to get thru the firewall right behind the battey, come down the kick panel and then run it across the door sill. Piece of cake.
And I agree, the problem with the hifi is mainly lack of BASS. But they also should be using better speaker than paper.
The wire feeding that thing is TINY compared to what you should be using for an amp.
The fuse is actually 15A, which isn't bad (same value as the fuse for the entire OEM audio system). They did intend the cigarette lighter to be capable of handling most things that people might want to plug in. What you'd give up is that it won't have power when the ignition is completely off (such as listening to the system in a parked car without using the key).
I've never seen an amp with a cigarette lighter adapter on its power cord.
Go ahead and use it if you want a ghetto install.
Go ahead and use it if you want a ghetto install.
The fuse is actually 15A, which isn't bad (same value as the fuse for the entire OEM audio system). They did intend the cigarette lighter to be capable of handling most things that people might want to plug in. What you'd give up is that it won't have power when the ignition is completely off (such as listening to the system in a parked car without using the key).
The fuse is actually 15A, which isn't bad (same value as the fuse for the entire OEM audio system). They did intend the cigarette lighter to be capable of handling most things that people might want to plug in. What you'd give up is that it won't have power when the ignition is completely off (such as listening to the system in a parked car without using the key).
Look in the owners manual for the amp to see what size it recommends.
I personally use a minimum 8ga or bigger.
Most high quality amps will accept 8 ga or bigger.
The two factors are how much current the amp draws and how long the wire needs to be.
For your power and ground wire, bigger is always better.
I personally use a minimum 8ga or bigger.
Most high quality amps will accept 8 ga or bigger.
The two factors are how much current the amp draws and how long the wire needs to be.
For your power and ground wire, bigger is always better.
Look in the owners manual for the amp to see what size it recommends.
I personally use a minimum 8ga or bigger.
Most high quality amps will accept 8 ga or bigger.
The two factors are how much current the amp draws and how long the wire needs to be.
For your power and ground wire, bigger is always better.
I personally use a minimum 8ga or bigger.
Most high quality amps will accept 8 ga or bigger.
The two factors are how much current the amp draws and how long the wire needs to be.
For your power and ground wire, bigger is always better.
I'm with ya brother.
But the basslink (and other smal powered subs) only put out around 100 or 150 watts. They ussually call for 12 or 14 guage in the manuals believe it or not.
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Colt45Magnus
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
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Sep 14, 2015 03:12 AM



