I am looking to add a sub to my 2005 MCS with the stock HU. Nothing too crazy just a bit more bass to round out the sound and maybe a little of that bass feel. I am looking at the following Specs:

1. Budget: $350ish
2. Must have remote bass control
3. Must be easily removable to recover boot space when needed.

I did some checking around the local shops and they were quoting between $600 - $800 for a sub and amp installed. One place wanted to sell me a 1600w amp and a single audiobahn 10" in a box supposedly rated at 900w peak for $800 installed. I told him that 1600 watts seemed a bit excessive then left. He didn't get that I just want something with a bit of low end punch.

I did some looking on crutchfield and came up with the following:
2 10" Pioneer Speakers (HERE)
1 dual 10" q-logic box (HERE)
1 300 W Kenwood KAC-8125D Amp (HERE)
1 Kenwood remote bass controller (HERE)
Total is $344.95

My question is that the speakers want .7 cu ft and the box only allows for .65 cu ft per side. How much of a problem is this? I have heard some people say that it is huge others say not so much. As an alternative I was also thinking about 10" kicker Punch Stage 1 speakers that only need .65 cu ft instead of the pioneers.

Would I be better going with a single 10" and a beefier speaker? BTW difference between a single and a double enclosure from crutchfield is $10.

I was going to tap off the drivers rear speaker for inputs to the amp since it has a line level input. Anyone think this will cause problems with the head unit?

For remote on I was going to use the cigarette lighter in the back and also mount the amp in the boot.

This will be my first sub install so any info/guidance would be appreciated. Thanks for the help

 

HA! 1600 watts... that's funny. I guess if you want your head to explode then "OK", but from my experience most local shops don't know what "a bit more bass to round out the sound" means.

I went with a simple 350watt kicker amp and some radio shack 12in sub (which rumor has it is a MTX). It rounds it out just fine. (i.e. I can still blow my brains out if I wanted to)

My BIGGEST suggestion is to NOT use the line level input on the amp. Spend an extra 30-40$ and get a line level converter that is separate from the amp.

This probably won't help too much since I did my install on the H/K, but I did write up what I did... so if it helps... http://www.geekshocker.com/Claire/audio/ampInstall.php

 

I am doing two ten inch audiobahns with an 800W amp. Also, adding capaciter so I do not overload my alternator. I custom made my box. It is 2.23 cubic feet. The rest of my speakers are three way JBL GTO series. So I am also just looking for that added low end and punch.

 

Also, to save money check out the Profile amps on Crutchfield. They are actually very good amps. People just do not like them because they are not the popular JL's or Alpines. But this provides great power and saves alot of money.

 

Something like this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-zxKgob1...evel+converter
?

 

Si.

 

A little more digging online and I came across this site:
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/faq.htm

They mention that if the box is too small that you can add stuffing to it and it will perform like a bigger box. The number that they use says that it can actually perform as though it is 40% larger. If this is true than there is an answer to my too small box problem.

Any thoughts?

 

check out the Infinity bass links they might fit your need.

 

another source for supplies is www.woofersetc.com
like crutchfield, but just speakers, woofers, amps, wiring, etc...no home audio and what not.

 

I was not too impressed with the bass links. Basically because when it was said and done you will pay $300 for the setup and if you want it installed the price goes up from there. I would rather go with a more powerful package for a touch more money.

 

2 10s will take a lot of space up... the boxes in the pic below are .65cuft with JL10W3V3-D2s I'm running about 340RMS to each.

If you want something to fill out the sound then a Basslink is a great deal, easy to install, fills out the sound nicely, and wont cave your head in. Thats also viewed as a con by some like me, you wont feel the bass, it will not give you any sound pressure levels at all.

A really good compromise, run a single 10 with a good 300w RMS amp, or dual 8's. The JL 8 inch is an incredible sub that's very efficient, you can run a pair on 300w RMS.

Just my .02c

 

And being SDMike's now near-deaf wife, I can most definitely confirm he knows his audio stuff

Huh? Whaddu say?

 

How about swapping out the 6x9's for 8" subs? I just finished the install last week on my 02 doing just that. You do need to remove a minor bit of sheet metal and fab up a mount. It's not that complicated and doesn't eat up all of your boot space, only the room an amp will occupy, and a false floor can easily cover that. Amp, line level convertor, remote bass control, subs and install kit is doable with your budget.

 

I'll probably be selling a used JL Audio Stealthbox (purchased last year) within a few weeks... it has a very nice 10" sub in it. I'm planning to upgrade to something bigger soon -- just working things out with my installer...

FYI in case your interested...

 

To throw another wrench in the works. I found hifisoundconnection.com that has some pretty decent deals on their stuff. In particular I am looking at a 12" box and an infinity 1252w to go in it. I think that this would be better than the infinity 10 since this would match up with the 300w RMS of the amp and leave less chance for me to blow up the speaker.

The box is made of 5/8 MDF as opposed to 3/4 and I wonder if that would be a problem or not. Any ideas on that?

I called crutchfield about using the line level inputs on the kenwood amplifier or going with a converter and they suggested to use the ones on the amp.

 

Here is another option that I am currently working on.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=33

And with this amp:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nEFwaZT...=120&I=158XM1S

But it wouldn't a separate bass controller to the amp.

My 1 1/2 cents....

 

you can find them much cheaper on ebay then that. plus, install it
yourself if you can...

but as far as removability goes, Bazooka's are a very nice feature.
i have the basslink on my MCS, but run the small BTA6100's on my G and
Civic. it's plent of bass for filling the void... it unstraps in seconds
from the holder and you can use your boot to actually carry something.

 

I got mine for $125, shipped, on another automotive forum. Paid $50 to have it hooked up (under the table to an installer that worked for an electronics company) and have it in my truck. I haven't done anything to the HK stereo that came with my car, which was pre-owned. I keep thinking about it, but the HK isn't bad enough to motivate me in that direction.

 

HK isn't bad as long as the front door speakers don't buzz from the bass.

my car did not come with the HK so made sense to just upgrade the
front sp (db525) and add a sub. sounds pretty damn good for wat i
paid for.

 

I'm using 5/8th MDF in my boxes and have no problems. You wouldn't have any issues with it with the Infinity 1252W either. A word of caution however, I had the 1052Ws where I now have the JLs. I blew one within 2 months of installing it.

This summer I will be replacing Tig's rear 6x9s with 8" JLs as she says she wants a little more boom without giving up any space. It's a clean stealth install that suits the MINI very well. Mine... well it was just fun to do :D

 

I finally decided on the original amp and one 10" infinity sub. I have it all in and working but I haven't tucked it all away to make it look neat yet. The 10" is more than enough IMHO and it hits good and hard. I was all set to order the 12" from www.hifisoundconnection.com but then I looked at their reviews and they were decidedly negative so I just ordered everything through crutchfield. I could have got the 12 and a box through hifisound but it may or may not have showed up. At least with crutchfield I have a top notch customer service department.

The install went pretty well and I was surprised how easy it was to get at the rear speakers. After seeing the stock 6 x 9 's that are there I think I may be upgrading those before too long.

I ended up not going off of the rear cigarette lighter for the remote power on because I found a local place that had this little gadges that senses power at the speaker. So I just wired it up to the + - of the amp and then the speaker + and the remote on for the amp and now the amp turns on only when the radio is on. I thought it was pretty nifty for 15 bucks. I will post pics once I get it cleaned up.

Thanks to all who offered up help.

 

as long as your music has no long quiet passages and your switch has some 2-3min timer, i suppose that will work. hope it doesn't go POP! when you
turn off the car at a gas station and turn your car back on.

 

So far so good. I will let you know after a week or so though.