Ball joints removed, fwd strut removed, wheel bearing bottom bolts removed, top bolts are blocked by CV joint.
bentley says to hit end of prop with rubber hammer to remove prop shaft.
is end of prop bolt that holds brake disc?
have not had wheel bearing off before?

 

Looks like the drive cap & wheel bearing were combined maybe a wheel puller is required.

 

You'll need to remove that big nut on the end there. That nut holds the drive shaft into the bearing.

 

The prop moved with a two point puller but the bolts not so lucky they will move if heated if allowed to cool even a little nada.
one more bolt to go drivers side. Which fiche shows a circlip on the transmission end.
the pass side with a flange is showing a seal & a guard with a shim each ends looks like, that is next.
Eventually I will find out what seal that is.

 

Bolts remove it was still stuck original bearing.
do the prop shafts drivers get stuck in transmission?

 

Evidently the prop does indeed get stuck Bentley manual use a pry bar assuming they will eventually come out.

 

I had to use a kit like this to get my driver side axel removed:

The key is to get the axel to pull straight out. If it gets cocked even slightly, the snap ring will get stuck and not release.

 

I was levering on it but was wondering, what tool.
that kit has two forks assuming they work together?

 

Yes, they go together, but you don't have to use them together. One is flat, and the other has a taper to it. Here is one video on how its used:

The flat one can be used as a lever, and the tapered one can be tapped into place to "pop" the retaining clip.

 

Thanks I will find out next week I levered a little so hopefully we will see.
I would have been seriously stuck with help here thanks again.

 

If I could get that tool in the very small opening in the undercarriage to the prop shaft it would work.
the bolts to passenger side center mount do turn tho the bottom bolt to get that out there is little room.
drivers side prop shaft came out with a two paw puller not so with the passenger side, stuck.
i will let it sit for a day then try some heat?
one bolt left holding passenger bearing to knuckle.

 

For what ever reason the L drivers prop came out of the bearing quite easily.
the R passenger side with quite a bit of tension on a puller added heat added extension to lever more & the prop has not budged stuck in wheel bearing? As above I will continue until something gives.

 

thread the nut back on, and give it a few good whacks with a BFH. Just need to knock it loose.

 

Okay I put nut on tight maybe looser bigger hammer.

 

I am
heating the shaft hitting with a BF mall & well has not budged added some oil?
where it is stuck assuming the shaft bearing surface.
motorcycle wheel is lined up with mini axle so if I move that I would have a little more swing room? But?
giving it lots of thyme

 

No amount of wacking seemed to move the bearing prop shaft out.
so next a hydraulic ram, question is I can only acess two of the four bearing threads.
is this enough for this tool or I could get the other two reamed out?
until I get this out this can not go back together!

 

I tap the knuckle and the wheel bearing with a metal hammer, also soak it with PB blaster night before. Tapping the large metal hammer all around vibrates the rust bond loose. You have to tap alot. Like small but very fast taps. Then the bearing will pop off. On the axle to wheel bearing the bond is usually much less. The bond from knuckle to bearing is usually the worst. Tapping on the bearing on the outside flange year fast after you loosen the bolt and hit with PB blaster on the spline of the axle front and behind the knuckle. When i put it back i use a little anti-seize. Just a little smear

Hopefully that technique helps.

Bearing in north east ohio and the rust belt we have the worst looking MINIs around here with the most rust.

I have done about 10 wheel bearings and axles this way with 3 of my MINIs.

 

To get to last bearing bolt out I need to get shaft out of bearing I have used heat bfh on end of shaft a smaller bearing pusher & it has not moved.
so yes I will try the tapping method have been using oil lots of it.
North East on Ocean so corrosion happens.

thnx

 

Yep, rust belt and the ocean spray can really do a number on older MINIs with steel on steel.

 

Eventually I will figure out what the tapping rapping is at the window pane.

As I start to assemble drivers side wheel bearing bolts and all the steering arm components were severely stuck corroded I am assuming anti seize on these parts the prop spline will definitely get anti seize. Passengers side more rapping tapping.