The wheel bearings on my R50 need to be replaced.
Bearings are ordered, but I don't know the size of the hex nut for the axles?
Does this require a special tool?

 

32MM Axle Nut. It can be borrowed at AutoZone/Advanced Auto Parts, maybe others. Tighten to 134 lb/ft when done and don't forget to stake the nut after it is torqued.

I am about to change my wheel bearings also. What symptoms did you exhibit? Mine where a speed/rotational dependent clicking while turning on the outside wheel of the turn.

Regards, Ricardo

 

Thanks Recardo for the info. I'm not sure what you mean by "staking" the hex nut once torqued, can you clarify?

Syptoms I experienced are a low vibration/grinding noise/sensation when decelerating or cornering at low speeds. When I replaced my brakes recently I took the time to remove the rotor and the outer flange had play, where the new bearing have none.
Also after 138k miles and reading several posts regarding wheel hub assembly replacements I though it was time.

I won't be able to replace my bearings for about a week, if you happen to complete your repairs before then, please let me know how you made out and any additional info you would like to pass on would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for the info....
Regards,
Mark

 

After you tighten it down, look at the threads and note a groove. Grab a punch and hammer the edge of the nut into that groove, this keeps the nut from walking off.

 

Thanks Some Guy....I was planning on re-using the existing hex nuts, but after reading your post I'm going to purchase new ones. It sounds to me like I'll most likely damage the existing ones prying back the notched hex nut...does that sound right?

 

The bearings are in, but I will be traveling for the next couple of days, so I may not get to it before Sunday evening. I am not convinced my problem is my bearings, I didn't have play or the typical bearing noise you mentioned. However, it is the next step to look at, since everything else is essentially new.

If you notice that at the end of the axle splines there is an square cut channel in the axle. The axle nut is typically indented (staked) into this channel. You do this so that the axle nut will not work itself loose. Because of this, I believe that it is typical to replace the axle nut with a new one, it is what I do. (or what Some Guy said...)

Other hints,

1) If you use studs, its easier to remove them before you remove the hub.
2) The bolts that hold the hub to the wheel carrier are likely very well seized, use plenty of your favorite penetrating fluid, or combination of them. I have also seen hints to hit the bolts with a punch and hammer to loosen the rust.
3) I would probably have a couple of extra bolts available in case the existing are too badly rusted or otherwise not worthy of using on brand new hubs.
4) There is very little clearance between the socket and the axle boot back there. A 1/2" socket might be too wide, 3/8" socket would likely be better, but you definitely want a longer ratchet for leverage to break these loose. An extension, and maybe a wobble socket might be useful. Maybe an impact socket and airgun?

If I think of anything else, or encounter anything else, I will be sure to post.

Regards, Ricardo

 

Impact wrench and suspension work are a winning combination.

Greenie, what you are saying is more less spot on. I would spend the $10 and replace them.

 

Thanks guys for all the info...I'll update this post when I finish the repair.

Your inputs are VERY helpful.

 

I did my front hubs, swaybar links and tie rod ends yesterday. Some additional thoughts:

1) 3/8" drive 13MM deep socket with a short extension is very helpful.

2) Use penetrating fluid on both sides of the bolt, not just the head.

3) Lots of penetrating fluid on the tie rod lock nut is also very helpful.

4) Remove the tie rod end and then the sway bar links, easier to get to the lower bolt.

5) have a 3 jaw puller handy. On hub pulled out with a strong tug, but the other was not so helpful. 3 Jaw puller did the trick but required an extra trip to the auto parts store for another loaner.

Oh yeah, I still have the clicking. So it wasn't the drive axles or the bearings, or any of the other new suspension pieces.

 

RicardoV thanks for the update, sorry to hear the clicking did not go away
Any thoughts on what it might be?

 

At this point I am lost. I will need to get the car aligned, I will ask the shop to check it out. It has been a very frustrating process of research, trial and error.

 

it's possible that the struts are the cause....I would have bet the farm that the drive axles were the cause. I have had and heard numerous other drive axles that make a cliking noise when they are defective.

Let me know what you find out....hang in there.