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Im having some problems with m7 07 S hardtop. Have a code 2418 for Evaporative Emission System Switching Valve Control Circuit/Open. Ive swapped out the solenoid with no luck and checked the wires from the solenoid to the ECU and there are no broken wires. I read someplace that people have found broken wires by the charcoal canister and i checked and don't see anything.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. The poor car has been sitting for almost two months and i just want to drive it and it has to get inspected. Ive been chasing this problem for almost 6 months on and off.
Some good information on P2418 in this NAM thread HERE. First thing to do is check the gas cap. The seal on it can fail. Have them here if needed. Also, make sure to check the wiring on the DMTL pump (image of the sensor on the pump from our DIY below). This ended up being the issue in the thread I linked above.
Ill swap the gas cap with my dads car and see if that works but i highly doubt its that. Thats usually an eval code for a small leak. This has to do with a circuit.
Ive checked the wiring to the best of my abilities by the pump and could not find anything.
Just be sure to check over everything you can, electrically. I've seen this fault caused more than a few times due to wire issues by the clip that holds it. This NAM thread here was that issue as well. Just double, triple check and make sure there is no open wire. Otherwise, maybe the pump itself is the issue?
ill check the wiring again. I couldn't find this clip everyone is talking about. unless the dealer fixed mine before it got messed up?
Ill also try and swap out the pump. Do you know if there is always voltage to the pump? Id check the wire to the ECU but i need a longggg piece of wire.
For the location I've pulled these from the thread, see if it helps you trace it down:
I had the exact same 4 codes on my 2010 Mini,
The wire to the Leak diagnosis pump was damaged by the clip on the rear trailing arm, it was shorting out and the wire was exposed. I pulled apart the harness and found the hole, it easily pulled apart because the wire was broken and the copper was green!
I soldered a new section of wire in and protected it with heat shrink tubing that
I filled with Di-electric grease to prevent future corroding. Then taped it up like
the factory so it looks normal, except I did not route the wire through the
trailing arm kit! Fixed!!!
The leak detection pump is in front of the right rear tire.
remove the access cover, trace the wire from the pump to the
trailing arm and there you will find the problem.
Peel back all the electrical tape until you find the little black dot or the
wires showing.
Yes, You should be able to test the voltage to the pump. Mr. Small (last post here) just posted that he fixed this issue yesterday at the clip.
So just be sure to check over any other wire to make sure there isn't an open circuit somewhere else and maybe test the pump itself. Check this thread HERE - Not MINI, but BMW and has a lot of good information about the valve. Everything I am finding leads to wire issue. Some replaced the valve and the code was still present until they traced it down to a chaffed wire. Just want to make sure you check over everything that can be checked before replacing the valve.
So you need to see if you are getting voltage and if the plug itself is ok. Unclip and check the plug itself. It might have wiggles loose on the contact. Then clear the code. If the wire is ok, the plug have voltage while the car is running. Then its the charcoal canister.
I had a reoccurring leak fault on my newer MINI and it was the pump itself. You said you swapped it out with a new one already ?
Check the wiring to the DMTL pump as stated, I have fixed corroded wires on uncountable cars due to chaffing. There is a fuse in the fuse box under the hood, for the DMTL pump if it is blown you will obviously have an open circuit.
Don't quote me as I don't have literature in front of me for the circuit, but I believe it was fuse F5 in the underhood box. I am certain it was a 7.5a fuse though.
