I've searched for this with mixed results. Does anyone have a concise answer on what is throwing these 2 codes? I know what they both mean but am not sure what has caused them and how to proceed.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

P2418-evaporative emmission system switching valve control citcuit open
P1447-evaporative emission control system purge flow monitor

Start with the gas cap. I would also clear the codes and see if it comes back.

You could have a leak or a problem with the lines to this pump.

 

Thanks for the quick response.

I had seen your diagram in a post about this before. Is it the can near #8? I'm wondering if It is related to driving through alot of water the night before it went off. I reset it yesterday and it came on about 200 miles later. All highway driving.

Another thing I had thought was I put a half tank of regular in on accident. I finished it with 93 and added octane booster. When the code went today it was on a fresh tank of premium.

If this way my jeep I wouldn't worry about it. This car keeps me nervous.

Thanks

 

Yes. Check all those connections. I highly doubt it was from the gas itself. Driving thru water is a possibility that you got one of the connections wet. Again I doubt it but you never know. Try clearing the code like I said and see if it returns.

 

I cleared the code Saturday, it came back on after I started the car for the second time on sunday. I had to drive home.. 400 plus miles. no problems at all, in fact it seems to be getting much better gas mileage.

What number parts from the diagram below are you referencing?

thanks again!

 

I have the same exact codes for my 2007 Mini and have cleared the codes like 50 times and after driving it for a short period of time they come right back. I have checked my gas cap and turn it until it clicks. I am about to see if I can borrow a friend's cap to see if it makes a difference. It is fdriving me crazy because after I clear it there is a little while where it drives fine until eventually it drives like crap and not wanting to down shift and starts chugging. If I leave it in sport mode it drives fine but who wants that kind of gas milage?

 

i'll have to try not driving it in sport... i drive in sport 100% of the time. the roof rack already ruins mileage.. hahah

 

Did y'all figure this one out? I just got these 2 codes on my 09 S and I don't really want to take a trip to the dealer if I don't have to, they pretty much suck and take 3 or 4 tries to fix something.

 

It turned out to be the evap can switch was bad. I believe it got wet when I drove through standing water and stuck in the open position.

Hope this helps. Could be lots of things.

 

I know it can be a lot of things, that is exactly why I don't want to take it to my local dealer. They will "fix" all of those things, and the last thing they fix will be what needed fixing. I was hoping my wife just didn't tighten the gas cap or something stupid, but that wasn't it.

Where is this switch you replaced located?

 

i wish i could be more help.. the dealer did it. i was physically unable to and ended up needing this as well as the thermostat.. i'll try and find the paperwork and get the part numbers for you.

I assume from the ya'll you're down south. mini of pittsburgh has been great to deal with.

 

I'm from WI, my use of y'all is for my own entertainment I guess.

 

~3-mos into (used) 2010 justa mini (clubman) ownership, on comes the CEL. My code reader showed P2418, which would not clear. tonite, ~3-mos later, I installed a new ~$67 purge solenoid valve (buried under the intake manifold, barely accessible from underneath). Alas, P2418 is still there, along with P1447. (I don't know how long P1147 had been there, as I hadn't checked codes in the past three months.) my code reader will not clear either of the codes, and they're immediately present - no delays. Any suggestions? DMTL pump assembly next? Is there any way to diagnose that unit before spending the ~$140 to try?

 

Mine turned out to be the wiring of the dtml pump. I still haven't fixed it yet, because the dealer is nuts. The dtml pumps have a longer warranty, so having the pump checked was free. They said the pump was fine, but wiring must be bad somewhere. They want $150 or something like that to find the bad part in the wiring. I asked what all new wiring would cost, but got no answer. They claim they have to take the back seat out to access the wires, but i have no idea. i dont trust them, so I have to figure out where that line runs. I have had no luck yet though. I know where the pump is and where to start looking, but no idea where it goes from there. If I had a lift it would probably be easy, but with a jack not so much.

 

Victory today, as I was finally able to to clear the P1447 & P2418 codes on my R55 2010 (base) Clubman. A few weeks ago I tried replacing the vapor purge solenoid up underneath the intake manifold, but no luck. Next hunt & peck part was going to be the Leak Detection Pump (LDP) itself. But today, while replacing the rear brakes, including wear sensor cable, I found the problem. The wear sensor cable is bundled with the LDP wiring (and the ABS cable), and routed through a sharp-edged little metal clamp, snapped onto the right rear suspension member. While replacing the brake wear sensor cable, I just happened to notice that the LDP wiring was chaffed and broken! Two of the four LDP harness wires were compromised (pic attached). Repair required only a few cents worth of solder & electrical tape! Voila - codes cleared! Bitter-sweet really, as I'm a bit disappointed that 'wire chaffing' is a problem in this day & age. The car is only ~4-1/2 years old, with only ~64k miles. I guess Lucas, Prince of Darkness lives on, except these days he lights up the dashboard instead of going dark...

 

Image shows my chaffed & broken LDP connector wiring, found at the little metal clip tied to the suspension member at the right rear.

 

That is the same wire my dealer told me is bad, but mine looks fine right by the clip there. I have no idea where it leads to though, so I don't know where else to look for breaks in that wire.

 

To be clear, in my case, the damaged ldp wiring was hidden underneath the clamp. Essentially invisible, until the bundle was removed from the clip.

 

Yeah we took it out of the clamp and it looks good, so I still have no idea where mine is bad...

 

So I finally found the bad spot on my wire, it was close to where the wire ran into the car. We repaired the wire, but still have the light have the p2418 code still

 

Many thanks for this solution. P2418, p1447, p2419 have been coming in on my 2010 Mini Cooper, and the fix was just as described.
I jacked up the passenger side rear of the car and pulled off the wheel. There, I could see the DMTL pump and related wiring harness. Two of the wires were nicked and corroded, right at that stupid clip.
Strip wire, solder and tape was all that was required.
I removed the clip, and put a zip tie around the whole bundle to secure the repair.

Many thanks for posting this solution.

 

Hey! can you post a picture of where the clip is? I can't seem to find it. I have the same codes minus the 2419.

 

This is a view looking forward, after the right rear tire is removed. The rear brake disc is visible in lower left of picture. The nasty clip is mounted on the inside of the support member. You can see my defective wires ready for repair, just right of the red sway bar.