Hi guys,

Truly hope some experts here can chime in their comments.

I drive a 2007 r56 Mini Cooper s. Before my turbo upgrade, my car was a stage two. I have the basic bolt ons, such as aftermarket dp, jcw exhaust, cai, alta intercooler , gfb dv. Software is using battle tunes dna. Car was strong, smooth and was free of any problems.

Saw a nice used low mileage gp2 turbocharger for sale and couldn't pass up the great deal so I went ahead and purchased it. Installation was straight forward and turbo bolt in perfectly with no modifications required. However , Nightmare began once the turbo was on. At first when I just collected my car, it felt great. Very smooth power and immediately can feel the car more punchier in lower revs. Everything was normal with no cel or anything. Then while I'm getting use to the power, I bring the revs higher and that is when **** kicks in. Any gear above 5 k rpm, the car will sputter and hesitate along with a popping and backfiring sound. To make a long story short, I have then bit by bit replaced the following parts because it did not throw any fault codes. So I had no choice but to go with the hard way.

First thing I did was replaced the hpfp then along with the fuel pump located under the rear seat, fuel filter, new Oem plugs and coils. Software is upgraded to stage 3 battle tunes. None of the above mentioned parts helped out. Car is still hicupping if I mash the throttle above 5k. Weird thing is, if I coast my way and gently bring up the speed, the car will not sputter. Problem only exist if I wot and only if revs are above 5k. Anything below feels fine and boost is spot on.

Now my question is, are there any owners out there that have went with the same route as me by selecting the gp2 turbocharger upgrade? And if so, were u guys successful? I'm starting to wonder if the turbo itself is incompatible with my n14 engine since the the gp2 turbo is from a n18. But I've heard the n18 Jcw turbocharger fits perfectly on the n14. And nothing was required to get it running. This is why I thought the gp2 turbo would work just fine, as its from the same n18 engine, please correct me if I'm wrong?

Truly appreciate for you guys to help out and comment. The power on my mini has reached my expectation , it is the power that I wanted. It such a shame I still can't find a cure. If you guys have any experience regarding to my issues, please feel free to chime in.

Thank you all!

 

The GP2 uses the N18 JCW turbo, they are the same.

Have you tried flashing back to the stock tune? The turbo should run just fine with the stock ECU tune. If it runs fine then the problem is with the Battle/DNA tune.

I just upgraded my 2013 S with the JCW turbo and it works perfectly. I do have a Manic tune.

 

Thanks for your reply.

You are right, in stock mode the car runs just fine. But the problem is, battle tunes have already sent me like 2-3 different tunes and they think the problem is something mechanically.

I will speak to battles again and see what they say.

 

but according to your bolt on mod list (DP, Exhaust, CAI, GFB DV & GP2 turbocharger), I cannot see any reasons why DNA/Battle Tune will have any difficulties tuning your car. Could it be your coils or spark plugs?

 

Yes it's just basic bolt ons. And everything was working at stage 2 flawlessly before the turbocharger upgrade. DNA have sent me like 2-3 files but still problem remains. And I don't understand how DNA could send me a wrong tune, they've been working on tunes for ages. I trust them and somtimes it makes me believe it is something else. Coils I have replaced with oem and plugs I'm using BMW oem plugs.

I've heard about ppl saying that plugs require gapping if you up power your vehicle. Not sure if that's a myth. Any experts out there please feel free to chime in.

 

Stock r56 turbo here. Was having hesitation and sputtering issues up until recently when I replaced my diverter valve with the the DV+. I see that you already have the DV+...but it might be loose or not sealed properly?

 

Thanks for your comment. I will double check on the dv again although I doubt this is the case. Because anything down low under 5k, the car pulls. I have a boost gauge and it can peak at 2psi. Just anything after 5k the car will sputter, cough, hesitating, whatever you call it along with crazy backfiring noise. I can still hold down throttle after 5k and car will not misfire or throw any cel lights. But car will just keep struggling. It's less obvious in the first and sec gears. It gets even worst while speed picks up in 3rd or 4th gear. And I repeat, coasting is not a problem. I just cant full boost above 5k.

 

You can check your plugs. I would gap them at 0.6 mm.

If you want to go with the one range colder plugs (heat range 8) they are:

ILKR8E6 also know as NGK 1422

 

I've been trying to tell my mechanic to adjust and gap my plugs but he keeps telling me that the plugs are new and it's already preset. So you feel that even though the plugs are new , they are required to be set at a narrower width?? I will recheck on that. Thanks!

 

Pker,

Please forgive me if this is obvious and has already been thought of, but have you tried swapping back to the original turbo to see if it's the turbo itself. It seems according to you, the issues started once the new turbo was installed.

Just a thought.

 

This is EXACTLY what I was thinking. You put a new part in, the car has issues, and you think something else is the problem? Swap the stock turbo back in and see what happens. I'll bet money the new turbo had an issue and that's why it was for sale in the first place.

 

Okay so guys, I have thought about this but was hoping this to be my last solution. The labor charge was not relatively cheap for the turbocharger replacement. My car being a 2007 and the things that I have replaced were all maintainence parts other than the fuel filter that was suggested for life time. The turbo showed no signs of damage and car drives normally when flashed back to stock mode. Turbocharger flaps were in mint condition, no white smokes puffing , car picks up boost and it's strong , just not in the high revs. Also this turbocharger was sold by a reputable shop owner in North America with low mileages on it. He then upgraded to a aftermarket turbo.

So before I spend a couple grand for labors , I really want to see if there was another way to pull this off. And this is why I have posted my problem here to see if any other enthusiasts have experienced my case.

Your suggestion is correct and I do appreciate you guys for responding. Im waiting to hear back from battle tunes, just looking forward to other solutions that they may have to offer. Worst case scenario , I will revert back to stock turbo.

Meanwhile, for any others out there with similar problems. Please feel free to shout out. Thanks!!

 

Because the car runs well with the stock maps, I doubt it is the turbocharger.

The DNA tune is causing issues. Does your car have a MAF (some international cars do not). If so try cleaning it.

 

I'm not trying to be bias but for a well reputable ecu tuner (Battletune) to get the tuning right is just a walk in the park considering that all your performance mods are just simple bolt ons. I'm pretty sure that Battle has done this as many times as they can remember. Have you tried gapping your plugs or replacing some high performance coils, sounds like it's got sth to do with the ignition side. Let us know if you have any good news.

 

I hear what you're saying but there has been another report of this happening using DNA/Battle and up rated turbo. IIRC, the person gave up and went with a different tuner. Same symptoms. I'll try and find the post.

 

This thread might be helpful.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ncing-wot.html

 

How is your carbon build up? Are the intake valves coked? If so get them cleaned ASAP. Also your combustion chambers could have a lot of build up as well causing the cylinder temps to skyrocket on higher revs with higher boost causing super knock. My car also suffer from this even when stock! WOT can cuase the same symptoms for me. I also have a 2007 MCS but with stock turbo. Also this happens with or without my Stage 3 DNA tune loaded.

I would imagine with a larger turbo and aggressive tune it would make it worse. You may want to get meth injection to keep the IAT's down.

 

Thats right , in stock mode the car runs fine. There's no way to replicate the problem in stock tune, no matter how aggressively I bring up the revs. It is the reason why I haven't given up yet because the turbo is doing exactly it's job.

No maf on my car. Still heard nothing yet from battle tunes, they have classified my case as abnormal. I might just go ahead and gap my plugs for now and maybe add a set of IP coils and see how it goes.

 

Ya I see what your saying, I highly doubt it's the tune too. It's not like I installed a custom made turbo or some wacky aftermarket parts on my car. Basically its the same jcw parts as most ppl are using on this forum. And it should be just the same way to tune my car as all others. I will gap my plugs and change to IP coils, hopefully that will produce more sparks if that is what I'm lacking.

 

Thanks, I've just finished that. It seems the owner is experiencing something different. He's having exhaust problems.

 

Can you please describe how your symptoms were? Because for me the car has no knocks or sputter in stock mode. It feels smooth as silk. Just when boost is increased the car hiccups and will produce backfiring popping noise. Pedestrians might look at me and think **** that sounds badass but in fact I'm scratching my head thinking wth is wrong.

 

In any case, make the carbon built up cleaning first ,if it has not been done .
it causes weird problems, can be difficult to locate.Is it possible that a boost leak somewhere? Divert spring,pipes,IC or tank air valve? This valve can be electrocally ok but leaks mechanically,no cels! I run with Jm turbo coopers S42HP and custom made tune,boost about 20 psi and it was this leaking valve proplem.Finally boost almoust disappeared and I change Vacuum converter for sure too.I run 0,65mm cap sparks,it is better at high boost pressure.

 

May I know where this tank valve is located? Is this something I can easily check by myself, or needs to be done at a garage? Thanks.

 

How many miles are on your 07 MCS? N14 engines are notorious for burning oil in the form of oil vapor, since there's nothing built into the valve cover to return the oil vapor back into the oil pan it gets ingested into the engine and burned. Carbon cooks itself onto the intake valves as a result, over time it clogs or chokes the engine by restricting air flow into the engine. This carbon needs special attention and can only be removed via walnut blasting, like sand blasting but with finely crushed walnut shells. Short of removing the head this is the only worthwhile way to clean the intake valves, I don't know what type of quality gas you have over there in HK but I assume it can't be to special. I could be wrong though.

 

did you solved the problem? i'm having the same problem on a N18 cooper s, but stock turbo.

stage 2 catless, panel filter, intercooler