R56 Rattles
Rattles
Can anyone help me. I've got some serious rattles going on with my 2011 Hatch S. I've taken it to the dealer multiple times and they are no help. First, both armrests on the doors were replaced two weeks ago with all new pieces, they rattle worse now than before. It's a constant buzzing until you put pressure on them. The hatch seems to be making a flutter noise at high speeds 75+, and there's a constant metal rattle coming from the boot area as well. It sounds like a light piece of metal is vibrating against another piece of metal. When the car flexes (coming out off a driveway or a steep approach it makes a creak on both sides from the back, the little toggle switch panel is vibrating badly, etc... It's just one thing after another. It's never been wrecked, or anything, I don't have run-flats, and its only got 26K miles. Please give me some ideas of what to do. I'm in raleigh, nc area if anyone else close by has any ideas. Thanks!
Spray teflon lubricant may help the interior buzzing. Squirt in the seams and wipe off any residue.
Metal on metal vibrating could be the license plate. Check screws, frame if you have one, had a similar noise and realized the dealer only used 2 screws.
Quick hatch squeak fix: a couple of wraps of plastic tape around the latch.
Good Luck
Metal on metal vibrating could be the license plate. Check screws, frame if you have one, had a similar noise and realized the dealer only used 2 screws.
Quick hatch squeak fix: a couple of wraps of plastic tape around the latch.
Good Luck
I have a rattle around the driver and passenger door, near the speakers. You think the teflon would do the trick? If so, where exactly should I spray it?
I also have a rattle up near the bluetooth/toggle switches for the lights and such.
I also have a rattle up near the bluetooth/toggle switches for the lights and such.
I'm not sure how the Teflon spray will help. But there is a thread on here about how to take off the door armrest and speaker cover, and putting a thin layer of felt tape around the plastic to keep it from rattling. I'm going to try that and see if it helps. Just got new tires yesterday as well, and I'm going to see if they also help with any of the buzzing. Went with 225/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3.
I used to work for a Ford dealer (dont laugh..) but I did mainly electrical, interior work, water leaks, squeaks and rattles.. and then basic service work. And engines, transaxles when the other guys would get backed up. I often got all the electrical stuff no one else would touch or be able to fix..
I actually went to "School" for NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) training with Ford.. Pretty neat stuff.. since then I will not tolerate any rattle or noise inside the car.. they are all pretty easy to catch.
That teflon or felt tape was a life saver... I know VW/Audi uses the stuff a lot as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adhesive-Noi...-/251202369422
(felt tape)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nonstick-15mm-x-10M-PTFE-Teflon-Adhesive-Tape-/281140760183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41754b8e77
(teflon tape)
The teflon is not like plumbers tape.. its sticky on one side and textured on the other... sticks only on one side.. so components and rub against it but are low friction (thus, they dont make noise).
I've used both.. a lot of times against rub areas with plastic parts against each other.. or body structures.. If you look you can often see witness marks where the parts rub.. Just drop a chunk of tape there, and boom - problem solved.
I've also used peel and seal / leak stopper (roof tape)... as sound deading.. its far better and cheaper than dynomat... no smell, same stuff, just about %20 of the dynomat cost.
I actually went to "School" for NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) training with Ford.. Pretty neat stuff.. since then I will not tolerate any rattle or noise inside the car.. they are all pretty easy to catch.
That teflon or felt tape was a life saver... I know VW/Audi uses the stuff a lot as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adhesive-Noi...-/251202369422
(felt tape)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nonstick-15mm-x-10M-PTFE-Teflon-Adhesive-Tape-/281140760183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41754b8e77
(teflon tape)
The teflon is not like plumbers tape.. its sticky on one side and textured on the other... sticks only on one side.. so components and rub against it but are low friction (thus, they dont make noise).
I've used both.. a lot of times against rub areas with plastic parts against each other.. or body structures.. If you look you can often see witness marks where the parts rub.. Just drop a chunk of tape there, and boom - problem solved.
I've also used peel and seal / leak stopper (roof tape)... as sound deading.. its far better and cheaper than dynomat... no smell, same stuff, just about %20 of the dynomat cost.
Trending Topics
I used to work for a Ford dealer (dont laugh..) but I did mainly electrical, interior work, water leaks, squeaks and rattles.. and then basic service work. And engines, transaxles when the other guys would get backed up. I often got all the electrical stuff no one else would touch or be able to fix..
I actually went to "School" for NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) training with Ford.. Pretty neat stuff.. since then I will not tolerate any rattle or noise inside the car.. they are all pretty easy to catch.
That teflon or felt tape was a life saver... I know VW/Audi uses the stuff a lot as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adhesive-Noi...-/251202369422
(felt tape)
Nonstick 15mm x 10M PTFE Teflon Adhesive Tape | eBay
(teflon tape)
The teflon is not like plumbers tape.. its sticky on one side and textured on the other... sticks only on one side.. so components and rub against it but are low friction (thus, they dont make noise).
I've used both.. a lot of times against rub areas with plastic parts against each other.. or body structures.. If you look you can often see witness marks where the parts rub.. Just drop a chunk of tape there, and boom - problem solved.
I've also used peel and seal / leak stopper (roof tape)... as sound deading.. its far better and cheaper than dynomat... no smell, same stuff, just about %20 of the dynomat cost.
I actually went to "School" for NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) training with Ford.. Pretty neat stuff.. since then I will not tolerate any rattle or noise inside the car.. they are all pretty easy to catch.
That teflon or felt tape was a life saver... I know VW/Audi uses the stuff a lot as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adhesive-Noi...-/251202369422
(felt tape)
Nonstick 15mm x 10M PTFE Teflon Adhesive Tape | eBay
(teflon tape)
The teflon is not like plumbers tape.. its sticky on one side and textured on the other... sticks only on one side.. so components and rub against it but are low friction (thus, they dont make noise).
I've used both.. a lot of times against rub areas with plastic parts against each other.. or body structures.. If you look you can often see witness marks where the parts rub.. Just drop a chunk of tape there, and boom - problem solved.
I've also used peel and seal / leak stopper (roof tape)... as sound deading.. its far better and cheaper than dynomat... no smell, same stuff, just about %20 of the dynomat cost.
Sorry to kind of hijack the thread, lol. If you want you can just message me.
Hey Dan. I'm still having that high pitch whistle noise from my car when I get on the pedal (I guess generating boost). What do you think it could be? Do you think I have a turbo leak or something? I'm not sure where it's coming from at all but, it's starting to really worry me. I don't remember my turbo ever being this loud.
Sorry to kind of hijack the thread, lol. If you want you can just message me.
Sorry to kind of hijack the thread, lol. If you want you can just message me.
Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.
Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.
Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..
To the OP -
The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
Is there an original thread on this (since you said "still")?
Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.
Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.
Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..
To the OP -
The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.
Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.
Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..
To the OP -
The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-oddities.html
It's hard to explain. It's not really like a high pitched whistle, like air is escaping something. Sometimes it sounds like a police siren, as odd as that may sound. I'm not sure what it is, but I don't ever really remember the sound. It kind of sounds like the sound the Alta CAI makes when you're on boost.
Is there an original thread on this (since you said "still")?
Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.
Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.
Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..
To the OP -
The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.
Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.
Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..
To the OP -
The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
torpeau
F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+)
17
Oct 8, 2015 11:10 AM
Jim Ferrell
Stock Problems/Issues
10
Oct 6, 2015 08:09 AM
eliseo1981
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
3
Sep 30, 2015 07:57 PM
Nicefeet
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
2
Sep 24, 2015 06:53 PM



