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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 09:46 AM
  #1  
ChiliRedR56raleigh's Avatar
ChiliRedR56raleigh
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From: Raleigh, NC
Rattles

Can anyone help me. I've got some serious rattles going on with my 2011 Hatch S. I've taken it to the dealer multiple times and they are no help. First, both armrests on the doors were replaced two weeks ago with all new pieces, they rattle worse now than before. It's a constant buzzing until you put pressure on them. The hatch seems to be making a flutter noise at high speeds 75+, and there's a constant metal rattle coming from the boot area as well. It sounds like a light piece of metal is vibrating against another piece of metal. When the car flexes (coming out off a driveway or a steep approach it makes a creak on both sides from the back, the little toggle switch panel is vibrating badly, etc... It's just one thing after another. It's never been wrecked, or anything, I don't have run-flats, and its only got 26K miles. Please give me some ideas of what to do. I'm in raleigh, nc area if anyone else close by has any ideas. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 12:35 PM
  #2  
cWade's Avatar
cWade
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Spray teflon lubricant may help the interior buzzing. Squirt in the seams and wipe off any residue.
Metal on metal vibrating could be the license plate. Check screws, frame if you have one, had a similar noise and realized the dealer only used 2 screws.
Quick hatch squeak fix: a couple of wraps of plastic tape around the latch.
Good Luck
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #3  
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cdboss
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I have a rattle around the driver and passenger door, near the speakers. You think the teflon would do the trick? If so, where exactly should I spray it?

I also have a rattle up near the bluetooth/toggle switches for the lights and such.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #4  
ChiliRedR56raleigh's Avatar
ChiliRedR56raleigh
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I'm not sure how the Teflon spray will help. But there is a thread on here about how to take off the door armrest and speaker cover, and putting a thin layer of felt tape around the plastic to keep it from rattling. I'm going to try that and see if it helps. Just got new tires yesterday as well, and I'm going to see if they also help with any of the buzzing. Went with 225/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #5  
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danjreed
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From: Philly PA
I was going to say felt tape or Teflon (sticky on one side) tape... We used it at our dealer.. Stuff worked great to mute interior squeaks and rattles.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 11:09 AM
  #6  
Braminator's Avatar
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Dan what dealer do you work for?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #7  
danjreed's Avatar
danjreed
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From: Philly PA
Originally Posted by Braminator
Dan what dealer do you work for?
I used to work for a Ford dealer (dont laugh..) but I did mainly electrical, interior work, water leaks, squeaks and rattles.. and then basic service work. And engines, transaxles when the other guys would get backed up. I often got all the electrical stuff no one else would touch or be able to fix..

I actually went to "School" for NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) training with Ford.. Pretty neat stuff.. since then I will not tolerate any rattle or noise inside the car.. they are all pretty easy to catch.

That teflon or felt tape was a life saver... I know VW/Audi uses the stuff a lot as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adhesive-Noi...-/251202369422

(felt tape)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nonstick-15mm-x-10M-PTFE-Teflon-Adhesive-Tape-/281140760183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41754b8e77
(teflon tape)

The teflon is not like plumbers tape.. its sticky on one side and textured on the other... sticks only on one side.. so components and rub against it but are low friction (thus, they dont make noise).

I've used both.. a lot of times against rub areas with plastic parts against each other.. or body structures.. If you look you can often see witness marks where the parts rub.. Just drop a chunk of tape there, and boom - problem solved.

I've also used peel and seal / leak stopper (roof tape)... as sound deading.. its far better and cheaper than dynomat... no smell, same stuff, just about %20 of the dynomat cost.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 02:38 AM
  #8  
cdboss's Avatar
cdboss
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Originally Posted by danjreed
I used to work for a Ford dealer (dont laugh..) but I did mainly electrical, interior work, water leaks, squeaks and rattles.. and then basic service work. And engines, transaxles when the other guys would get backed up. I often got all the electrical stuff no one else would touch or be able to fix..

I actually went to "School" for NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) training with Ford.. Pretty neat stuff.. since then I will not tolerate any rattle or noise inside the car.. they are all pretty easy to catch.

That teflon or felt tape was a life saver... I know VW/Audi uses the stuff a lot as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adhesive-Noi...-/251202369422

(felt tape)

Nonstick 15mm x 10M PTFE Teflon Adhesive Tape | eBay

(teflon tape)

The teflon is not like plumbers tape.. its sticky on one side and textured on the other... sticks only on one side.. so components and rub against it but are low friction (thus, they dont make noise).

I've used both.. a lot of times against rub areas with plastic parts against each other.. or body structures.. If you look you can often see witness marks where the parts rub.. Just drop a chunk of tape there, and boom - problem solved.

I've also used peel and seal / leak stopper (roof tape)... as sound deading.. its far better and cheaper than dynomat... no smell, same stuff, just about %20 of the dynomat cost.
Hey Dan. I'm still having that high pitch whistle noise from my car when I get on the pedal (I guess generating boost). What do you think it could be? Do you think I have a turbo leak or something? I'm not sure where it's coming from at all but, it's starting to really worry me. I don't remember my turbo ever being this loud.

Sorry to kind of hijack the thread, lol. If you want you can just message me.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 03:23 AM
  #9  
R53's Avatar
R53
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The joys of owning a R56.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 05:04 AM
  #10  
danjreed's Avatar
danjreed
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From: Philly PA
Originally Posted by cdboss
Hey Dan. I'm still having that high pitch whistle noise from my car when I get on the pedal (I guess generating boost). What do you think it could be? Do you think I have a turbo leak or something? I'm not sure where it's coming from at all but, it's starting to really worry me. I don't remember my turbo ever being this loud.

Sorry to kind of hijack the thread, lol. If you want you can just message me.
Is there an original thread on this (since you said "still")?

Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.

Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.

Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..

To the OP -

The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 05:38 AM
  #11  
cdboss's Avatar
cdboss
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Originally Posted by danjreed
Is there an original thread on this (since you said "still")?

Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.

Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.

Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..

To the OP -

The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
There is. You were helping me in another thread, here's the link. I think we were supposed to meet up at some point for you to look at my car but, we just never did, lol.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-oddities.html

It's hard to explain. It's not really like a high pitched whistle, like air is escaping something. Sometimes it sounds like a police siren, as odd as that may sound. I'm not sure what it is, but I don't ever really remember the sound. It kind of sounds like the sound the Alta CAI makes when you're on boost.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 07:50 AM
  #12  
ChiliRedR56raleigh's Avatar
ChiliRedR56raleigh
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by danjreed
Is there an original thread on this (since you said "still")?

Generally a boost leak sounds like a loud hiss... HHHiiiiiiisssssssss when you go into boost.

Check all the connections on the intake side of things.. everything from the air inlet, air box, vacuum lines, PCV lines... etc.. all of them must be tight and solid.. Also, I've seen dumb stuff like cracked valve covers.. loose dipsticks.. etc.. anything can make that sounds... generally.. a whistle is air escaping between two areas and causing the material around them to vibrate... Plastic parts like to split with age and dry out... MY Audi was a nightmare with its PCV setup and did this 304 times before I just decided to say the hell with it and upgrade all the parts to a silicone aftermarket kit.

Look for any signs of oil leaks.. not drippy oil.. but a light film around seals and joints on the boost side of the turbo..

To the OP -

The rattles.. in the doors... can you duplicate them sitting still? I mean, can you raise the RPMs on the engine to highway speeds (say 3-4 K RPM).. and see if you can get the door handles to rattle?
I can duplicate the rattles sitting still by raising the revs. I've had the whole entire area around the speaker and armrest felt taped. It still rattles on both sides, and buzzes. My car has been to the dealership at least ten times for them to "fix".
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:18 AM
  #13  
Ian Landesman's Avatar
Ian Landesman
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 512
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From: New Orleans, LA
I'm fighting some rattles. I've been using silicone caulk as you all have been describing the use of felt tape. Works rather well and gets into those TINY plastic seems that rattle!
 
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