Front end clicking
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Front end clicking
I am getting a clicking noise in my front end of my 95 mini when letting off the clutch some times a single click sometimes more, I also notice it when I take left turns from the drivers side of the car (LHD) I could be having the same issue on the pass side but I cannot get my head out the passenger side window. Now I know what your going to say its the CV Joints, However let me just go over what I have replaced in the last few weeks, New CVs, New Wheel bearings, New Heim Joint Lower Arms, New Flanges, re-installed my ball joints (did it wrong last time found a good vid on youtube). I torqued the flange on with a washer first like all the write ups I could find. Second I torqued it back up to 190ft pounds. I am getting about ten thou of run out on the flange not sure what is acceptable.
My other issue is I'm having a hard time setting the ride height which is messing with my camber which could be the root of my problem also.
I have set the height to where it was before I put the Coils in and set the camber lower the car check drive it, the coils sags and my suspension geometry changes im not sure if this is why its clicking I would guess there is at least 2 degrees of camber right now. I was only shooting for 1 to 1.5 for auto cross. I am not sure what degree of camber might cause the CVs click or not. I plan on getting it aligned after its drivable.
Any help would be extremely appreciated.
Thanks!
Will
My other issue is I'm having a hard time setting the ride height which is messing with my camber which could be the root of my problem also.
I have set the height to where it was before I put the Coils in and set the camber lower the car check drive it, the coils sags and my suspension geometry changes im not sure if this is why its clicking I would guess there is at least 2 degrees of camber right now. I was only shooting for 1 to 1.5 for auto cross. I am not sure what degree of camber might cause the CVs click or not. I plan on getting it aligned after its drivable.
Any help would be extremely appreciated.
Thanks!
Will
Last edited by oc00l; Jul 14, 2010 at 06:59 PM.
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Chandler, AZ
Wow.
I have nearly exactly the same problem, but haven't posted my question yet. I recently replaced my original cones with green coils, went through the entire front end and replaced nearly all wear items.
My symptom is: lower car from jack stands; ride height is slightly higher because springs haven't settled. Drive car for ~ 8-10 miles with _no_ issues. Soon after, I get clicking from the front end on right turns. click click click click click - under higher G cornering. I really don't think it's my CV joint because I just went through it and didn't find any issue.
I originally thought it was how the coil spring is seating into the subframe. When I originally installed the coils the left side was not captured inside the ring in the tower. I've since fixed it but the symptom is still there. Totally puzzled.
The only other thought I've had is that I've got a Quaife LSD in my rod change box. I'm now questioning if it's making the noise. It never did it before I did the coil spring conversion though ...
Sorry, no help from me ... just sympathy
Jeff
I have nearly exactly the same problem, but haven't posted my question yet. I recently replaced my original cones with green coils, went through the entire front end and replaced nearly all wear items.
My symptom is: lower car from jack stands; ride height is slightly higher because springs haven't settled. Drive car for ~ 8-10 miles with _no_ issues. Soon after, I get clicking from the front end on right turns. click click click click click - under higher G cornering. I really don't think it's my CV joint because I just went through it and didn't find any issue.
I originally thought it was how the coil spring is seating into the subframe. When I originally installed the coils the left side was not captured inside the ring in the tower. I've since fixed it but the symptom is still there. Totally puzzled.
The only other thought I've had is that I've got a Quaife LSD in my rod change box. I'm now questioning if it's making the noise. It never did it before I did the coil spring conversion though ...
Sorry, no help from me ... just sympathy
Jeff
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Chandler, AZ
Do you mean torquing the 1-5/8" CV-to-driveflange nut? No, that wouldn't cause the hub to be misaligned. I torqued mine by placing the transmission in gear, installing the wheels, putting the tires on the ground, then torquing. After it's torqued, remove the wheels, install the pin in the crown nut and finish the job.
A friend of mine showed me a trick where he uses a breaker bar against two of the wheel studs on the drive flange with one end of the breaker bar leveraged against the ground. When tightening the 1-5/8" nut the breaker bar will prevent the assembly from spinning. I don't particularly like this because you can damage the wheel stud threads.
Cheers,
Jeff
A friend of mine showed me a trick where he uses a breaker bar against two of the wheel studs on the drive flange with one end of the breaker bar leveraged against the ground. When tightening the 1-5/8" nut the breaker bar will prevent the assembly from spinning. I don't particularly like this because you can damage the wheel stud threads.
Cheers,
Jeff
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Yes I am referring to the 1-5/8 in CV to Flange nut, I have found different Torque specs from 150-193ft lb. I have also read in more than one place to torque up with out the split V washer and use a flat washer to align the hub and then remove and re install the split V washer. I am going to try this tonight or tomorrow.
From the mini form
"The dimensions of the washer are 50mm OD, 25mm ID, 6.5mm thick"
From the mini form
"The dimensions of the washer are 50mm OD, 25mm ID, 6.5mm thick"
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 623
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From: Jersey C.I. UK
Hi..I see from your post that you have fitted new front hub bearings??...now when you fitted them to the hub and then greased them well and fitted tappers and then fitted c/vs and discand flange DID you pre load your bearings first ie (tightened up drive *** without taper washer)...........
4th Gear
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From: Chandler, AZ
What was the verdict? I also installed new hub bearings (actually I installed new hubs that were supplied with new bearings) since I was replacing my Metro brakes with Mini brakes. I would _love_ to know if preloading the hub assemblies resolves the issue.
Jeff
Jeff
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5th Gear
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From: Jersey C.I. UK
the washer is made from 1/4" plate steel with hole lg enough to fit over shaft I used a water pump spacer.............
4th Gear
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From: Chandler, AZ
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 623
Likes: 8
From: Jersey C.I. UK
oc00l - what was the verdict? Did you try preloading without the cone spacer, and if so did it fix the clicking problem?
mk1leg - I understand what this is supposed to do. I'm just curious if the OP did it and what the result was.
Jeff
mk1leg - I understand what this is supposed to do. I'm just curious if the OP did it and what the result was.
Jeff
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I did give it a try and had some issues, I purchased these CVs from 7ent.
http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=3722
http://www.7ent.com/images2/GCV1013-GKN.jpg
If you notice the threads have been cleaned off where the hole for the cotter pin goes, with the washer on you don't get enough threads to torque it up to 150ft lb without stripping your new CV joint and Castle nut. My guess is if they were fully threaded this would not have been an issue, Even worse I noticed a after I stripped one that 7ent now has Heavy Duty ones that cost 20 dollars less each and are fully threaded.
Will
http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=3722
http://www.7ent.com/images2/GCV1013-GKN.jpg
If you notice the threads have been cleaned off where the hole for the cotter pin goes, with the washer on you don't get enough threads to torque it up to 150ft lb without stripping your new CV joint and Castle nut. My guess is if they were fully threaded this would not have been an issue, Even worse I noticed a after I stripped one that 7ent now has Heavy Duty ones that cost 20 dollars less each and are fully threaded.
Will
Last edited by oc00l; Jul 19, 2010 at 05:59 PM.
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Description of the part I purchased: This is the large Mini CV joint, as used on Cooper S and 8.4" brake cars. Also fits MG1100/Austin America. From GKN, the original Rover supplier. These are our highest quality joints, with precision machining and heat treating. Includes a boot, grease and a locking clip.
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