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Extended Maintenance Warranty?

 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Extended Maintenance Warranty?

So, there were several other threads out there about this, but they seem undecided... So what does my mid-Ohio group think?

I have 6,000 miles to decide whether or not I should buy the extended warranty on my Cooper. I have a 70mile round trip commute each day and average around 475-515 miles every 10days. Needless to say I drive a lot! *After the big service 1 yesterday, I found that in 9,000 miles or so, I'll need to have both sets of brakes done, which alone will be $1,200 or so. The price tag of $1,395 for 100,000miles sound pretty good then, but I hate buyin more warranty... *

So what are your thoughts? *Can brakes and oil changes be done DIY on a mini for less than $1,395 over the course of 70,000 miles??
 
Old Jul 29, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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FWIW I think that warranty is rather pricey for what you get & I did not buy it for my car.

If you go by the MINIs computer you will only have the oil changed every 15,000 miles. So is 4 oil changes worth $1395 to you? I'll do your brakes & wash your car for $900, look I've already saved you $300. That's what friends are for. Dealer prices are very high, MAG has a shop rate of $110 per hour. Some things you will need the dealer to do & many you will not.

You can do your own brakes for a lot less & end up with better pads & rotors than oem.
 
Old Jul 29, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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Good to know chuck! What pads and rotors would you recommend. I don't track, just street driving (although, I did have a bit of sliding fun tonight at a local s-curve! ).

Any other thoughts on either the warranty or brake setup?
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Crashton
I'll do your brakes & wash your car for $900
Watch it Chuck, my warranty is about to expire. My brakes ares still good but I'm happy to know there are alternative service options! So do you put the Crashton plate frames on during services too?
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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Don't worry Chuck is not a mass murderer. I had the same thought with all the picture taking, turns out he is just a Silverback with short term memory issues so he takes pictures of everything.

I had him help me with my brakes, but he did not bleed on my car, so I went back for some CAI help. Lucky for my he shed some blood which I submitted to the FBI. They told me Chuck is clear of any known crimes.
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 08:37 AM
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Its hard to say. Only thing warranty-wise the dealer seems good for are electrical gremlins.

Using your example for brakes, like Chuck said, you can do better for much less than that amount.

And its an extended WARRANTY, not a service plan right!?... Brakes wont even be covered under that... along with the other wear items...clutch / tires / struts....ect
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
Its hard to say. Only thing warranty-wise the dealer seems good for are electrical gremlins.

Using your example for brakes, like Chuck said, you can do better for much less than that amount.

And its an extended WARRANTY, not a service plan right!?... Brakes wont even be covered under that... along with the other wear items...clutch / tires / struts....ect
The one I'm talking about is the extended SERVICE warranty, so all the wear items: brakes, clutch, etc are covered. Called to confirm that already.

What brake pads/rotors would you recommend?
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Is there any sensor work that would cause a error code on my dash if I do the work Ibarra of MAG? What about the service reminder at startup, can that be reset by me?
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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It looks like you can get rotors from 30-150 ea. (front) and pads all around would be about 200 for Ceramics....so maybe 500 with 'Better than OEM' stuff.

Not sure on the light reset... I thought there was a way..

But if its a service warranty for 1400 and a clutch goes out (besides the fact you could replace it with 'better than OEM) youd probably get the money's worth.

The problem would be if they refuse to fix something for any reason... But MAG is pretty cool it seems


Id be all over it if I could take it in for alignments all i want and was certain theyd do work when it needs done...(not AFTER the clutch GOES OUT)...but when it starts making a little noise or something.
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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Buy a scan gauge from Aaron and you can reset your codes.
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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You should also replace the pads before the light comes on in whaich case you just transfer the sensor to the new pads.
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
It looks like you can get rotors from 30-150 ea. (front) and pads all around would be about 200 for Ceramics....so maybe 500 with 'Better than oem
Where did you look for the rotors at? Most what I saw on outmotoring seemed on the higher end of things.
 
Old Jul 30, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rigidjunkie
You should also replace the pads before the light comes on in whaich case you just transfer the sensor to the new pads.
So, the sensor is ok so long as you change the pads out before they are too thin?
 
Old Jul 31, 2010 | 07:44 AM
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I bought ATE PremiumOne slotted rotors from ProMINI: $50/each (front) and $32/each (rear).

I bought EBC Green Stuff pads from Moss Mini: $81 (front set) and $70 (rear set).

EBC Green Stuff pads are a ceramic composite good for street and perform better than OEM. Plus they don't dirty up your wheels as much as OEM.
 
Old Jul 31, 2010 | 07:52 AM
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The service reminder can be easily reset without any scan tool.

Check out this video for R56 reset procedure: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REyymJALb5A
 
Old Jul 31, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bjl
I bought ATE PremiumOne slotted rotors from ProMINI: $50/each (front) and $32/each (rear).

I bought EBC Green Stuff pads from Moss Mini: $81 (front set) and $70 (rear set).

EBC Green Stuff pads are a ceramic composite good for street and perform better than OEM. Plus they don't dirty up your wheels as much as OEM.
Thanks! Looks about $300 for parts then. Any special tools to change out pads and rotors on a mini? I've only changed brake pads/rotors on a mid-90's cavalier before and some older cars, so wasn't sure.
 
Old Jul 31, 2010 | 10:48 AM
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It's pretty much the same lol. Except I haven't had the rotors off ever. Looks like they're attached to the hub with screws? Rest is just unbolt and compress the calipers with a clamp!
 
Old Jul 31, 2010 | 11:00 AM
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That screw really can be a screw of a job to remove.

I suggest if your MINI is new or newish, pull that T45 torx & put anti-seize on it. Then reinsert the screw. When you need to do the brakes the screw will come out. If you didn't do this, by the time you need to pull the rotors you will be hating that torx for sure.

The torx really serves no purpose. You could drill it out & go without. The action of the wheel being bolted to the hub keeps the rotor in place. Most other cars have no such screwy bolt holding the rotor to the hub.

As far as special tools go the only thing special is a compressor that will let you turn the rear caliper pistons in.

There is a great how to write up here on NAM about doing brakes. Read it before doing the brakes.

Edit.... Aaron at Outmotring has Mintex red box pads that are a real value. Best call Aaron & ask for what you want, he can get anything for you.
 
Old Jul 31, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Carve906
Thanks! Looks about $300 for parts then. Any special tools to change out pads and rotors on a mini? I've only changed brake pads/rotors on a mid-90's cavalier before and some older cars, so wasn't sure.
That was for R53 parts. R56 may be different. Aaron's a good source. I wanted something specific so I shopped around.
 
Old Jul 31, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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Yes the sensor works as a circuit so when you wear it down the circuit breaks and the light comes on so if you do not break the circuit then you do not have to fix it
 
Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bjl
That was for R53 parts. R56 may be different. Aaron's a good source. I wanted something specific so I shopped around.
http://www.fastmini.net/combokits.html

appears it can be 300 for the 56 too. Just saw MachV's post
 
 
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