JCW JCW rotor? brakes?
#1
JCW rotor? brakes?
In spec'ing what I hope to order, I come across the JCW drilled brake rotors.
I know what the purpose of drilled rotors is (dispersion of heat and vapor/gasses), but is it worth bothering with for a daily driver. I figure why bother with that and just go for the full JCW brakes. But I thought the R56 had the older JCW brakes, so what's to expect from the new JCW brakes? And why would they have the brakes and rotors as separate options, unless folks want the looks of the drilled rotors without the cost of the JCW brakes? And why get the JCW brakes without the drilled rotors?
Right now the only other JCW option I'm considering is the strut brace, as it's the only other genuinely functional option, but for a daily driver it might be a bit much, but as an proactive anti-mushrooming thing...you know.
(Well, OK, I'm thinking of the shift indicator because it looks neat and is arguably functional.)
-W-
I know what the purpose of drilled rotors is (dispersion of heat and vapor/gasses), but is it worth bothering with for a daily driver. I figure why bother with that and just go for the full JCW brakes. But I thought the R56 had the older JCW brakes, so what's to expect from the new JCW brakes? And why would they have the brakes and rotors as separate options, unless folks want the looks of the drilled rotors without the cost of the JCW brakes? And why get the JCW brakes without the drilled rotors?
Right now the only other JCW option I'm considering is the strut brace, as it's the only other genuinely functional option, but for a daily driver it might be a bit much, but as an proactive anti-mushrooming thing...you know.
(Well, OK, I'm thinking of the shift indicator because it looks neat and is arguably functional.)
-W-
#2
Jcw
We spec'd JCW Aero Kit, wing, & steering wheel. At this point there's not much JCW performance available, but maybe it's time to let the MCS have its day in the sun. My attitude with sports cars has always been less is more, so 175 hp is more than enough.
You can't appreciate a 427, GT350, or GTI without their stock predecessors to help set the bar.
Regarding brakes, I believe like BMW rotors, they're not turnable (manufactured at min. thickness with no spare metal and can't be turned). So while $218 is not very much money for drilled rotors, you might consider waiting until you wear out your first set of stock rotors. For that matter, since they're JCW accessory parts, you'll be getting the car with stock rotors and you'll have to pay the dealer to mount the JCW rotors (or do it yourself). My experience with our BMW Z3 (also a ~2800 lb. car) was that the rotors are constantly wearing along with the very hard pads. At 80k we did our first brake job and then again around 130k, and needed front rotors both times. Parts alone for first brake job was $440. Second brake job did not require rear rotors.
-kARL
You can't appreciate a 427, GT350, or GTI without their stock predecessors to help set the bar.
Regarding brakes, I believe like BMW rotors, they're not turnable (manufactured at min. thickness with no spare metal and can't be turned). So while $218 is not very much money for drilled rotors, you might consider waiting until you wear out your first set of stock rotors. For that matter, since they're JCW accessory parts, you'll be getting the car with stock rotors and you'll have to pay the dealer to mount the JCW rotors (or do it yourself). My experience with our BMW Z3 (also a ~2800 lb. car) was that the rotors are constantly wearing along with the very hard pads. At 80k we did our first brake job and then again around 130k, and needed front rotors both times. Parts alone for first brake job was $440. Second brake job did not require rear rotors.
-kARL
#3
We spec'd JCW Aero Kit, wing, & steering wheel. At this point there's not much JCW performance available, but maybe it's time to let the MCS have its day in the sun. My attitude with sports cars has always been less is more, so 175 hp is more than enough.
You can't appreciate a 427, GT350, or GTI without their stock predecessors to help set the bar.
Regarding brakes, I believe like BMW rotors, they're not turnable (manufactured at min. thickness with no spare metal and can't be turned). So while $218 is not very much money for drilled rotors, you might consider waiting until you wear out your first set of stock rotors. For that matter, since they're JCW accessory parts, you'll be getting the car with stock rotors and you'll have to pay the dealer to mount the JCW rotors (or do it yourself). My experience with our BMW Z3 (also a ~2800 lb. car) was that the rotors are constantly wearing along with the very hard pads. At 80k we did our first brake job and then again around 130k, and needed front rotors both times. Parts alone for first brake job was $440. Second brake job did not require rear rotors.
-kARL
You can't appreciate a 427, GT350, or GTI without their stock predecessors to help set the bar.
Regarding brakes, I believe like BMW rotors, they're not turnable (manufactured at min. thickness with no spare metal and can't be turned). So while $218 is not very much money for drilled rotors, you might consider waiting until you wear out your first set of stock rotors. For that matter, since they're JCW accessory parts, you'll be getting the car with stock rotors and you'll have to pay the dealer to mount the JCW rotors (or do it yourself). My experience with our BMW Z3 (also a ~2800 lb. car) was that the rotors are constantly wearing along with the very hard pads. At 80k we did our first brake job and then again around 130k, and needed front rotors both times. Parts alone for first brake job was $440. Second brake job did not require rear rotors.
-kARL
My MA, Robert Mathews at eastbaymini.com emailed me today and we finalized my MCS. It will be ordered tomorrow and a production number assigned, so movement down the tunnel has begun!
Allow me to say...
#4
We spec'd JCW Aero Kit, wing, & steering wheel. At this point there's not much JCW performance available, but maybe it's time to let the MCS have its day in the sun. My attitude with sports cars has always been less is more, so 175 hp is more than enough.
You can't appreciate a 427, GT350, or GTI without their stock predecessors to help set the bar.
Regarding brakes, I believe like BMW rotors, they're not turnable (manufactured at min. thickness with no spare metal and can't be turned). So while $218 is not very much money for drilled rotors, you might consider waiting until you wear out your first set of stock rotors. For that matter, since they're JCW accessory parts, you'll be getting the car with stock rotors and you'll have to pay the dealer to mount the JCW rotors (or do it yourself). My experience with our BMW Z3 (also a ~2800 lb. car) was that the rotors are constantly wearing along with the very hard pads. At 80k we did our first brake job and then again around 130k, and needed front rotors both times. Parts alone for first brake job was $440. Second brake job did not require rear rotors.
-kARL
You can't appreciate a 427, GT350, or GTI without their stock predecessors to help set the bar.
Regarding brakes, I believe like BMW rotors, they're not turnable (manufactured at min. thickness with no spare metal and can't be turned). So while $218 is not very much money for drilled rotors, you might consider waiting until you wear out your first set of stock rotors. For that matter, since they're JCW accessory parts, you'll be getting the car with stock rotors and you'll have to pay the dealer to mount the JCW rotors (or do it yourself). My experience with our BMW Z3 (also a ~2800 lb. car) was that the rotors are constantly wearing along with the very hard pads. At 80k we did our first brake job and then again around 130k, and needed front rotors both times. Parts alone for first brake job was $440. Second brake job did not require rear rotors.
-kARL
But seriously, any thoughts on softer pads? Pads are cheap, and installion is relatively easy. Rotors are not, on either count. Just wondering. I slap new pads in the rear of the Grinnall Scorpion (BMW K1100RS drivetrain) in a fraction of an hour. A new rear rotor would be different matter. You know waaaay more about BMW cars than I probably ever will, so what's your thoughts on pads? Pardon if I sound like a dummy. I are one.
#5
That's obscene!!! A bradke job (pads/rotors) is one of the easiest DIY jobs out there!
Man, I was under the assumption that it would be done at the factory... especially where they are listed in the configurator. Guess I'll be crossing those off as well.
#6
Yeah, but how hard did you hammer those brakes, Karl??
But seriously, any thoughts on softer pads? Pads are cheap, and installion is relatively easy. Rotors are not, on either count. Just wondering. I slap new pads in the rear of the Grinnall Scorpion (BMW K1100RS drivetrain) in a fraction of an hour. A new rear rotor would be different matter. You know waaaay more about BMW cars than I probably ever will, so what's your thoughts on pads? Pardon if I sound like a dummy. I are one.
But seriously, any thoughts on softer pads? Pads are cheap, and installion is relatively easy. Rotors are not, on either count. Just wondering. I slap new pads in the rear of the Grinnall Scorpion (BMW K1100RS drivetrain) in a fraction of an hour. A new rear rotor would be different matter. You know waaaay more about BMW cars than I probably ever will, so what's your thoughts on pads? Pardon if I sound like a dummy. I are one.
I never deviated from oem pads on our Z3 and most of those first 80k miles were highway (al biet, traffic laden). Softer pads might help, but most aftermarket brakes are targetted at less fade, or dust reduction. Not sure if softer pads are easily found.
#7
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