Decided to make some changes for AutoX...some from my Road Race Days of the past

Today I did my normal 3000 mile Oil/Oil Filter and Spark plug change and then I took on the PowerFlex Black Race Bushing replacements
for the front control arm (Both front and rear bushing in the A-Arms). Let me say that the first A-Arm was a learning curve...trying to remove
Bushing/Metal liners/Ect,,,took 4 hours to do the driver's side but then only 1 hour to do the passenger side. The difference in handling is
definitely tighter/quicker. I actually had the Mini a bit too low which was affecting the Front Shock/Strut Travel and am going to adjust the ride
height tomorrow morning...then take for another alignment to make sure I will be at the settings I want.

For ride height I am going for 13.50" Front and 13.75" Rear as a Start...then doing some alignment changes...
Currently have Camber at -2.1 Front Left and -1.9 Front Right with Caster at 3.3 and 3.8 respectively. Toe Out is _.04 on both in the front
The rear Camber is -1.7 Rear Left and -1.6 rear Right with Toe Out at -.02 on both rear tires
Gonna up front Camber to -2.2 and rear camber to -2.0

The current Alignment and Yoko Advan A052s did a great job...but the new changes and parts should step it up a bit more...and the height
changes should give my suspension a bit more usable travel/handling

 

You say the Powerflex difference in handling is tighter/quicker, do you think it's worth it for street use? Trying to get my Mini to handle like a 911 .
4 hours sounds like a lot of labor tho (I guess for you it'd be 2 hrs now).

 

In One Word...YES

Removing the Stock Bushings was quite a job. We tried EVERYTHING including drilling (the stock bushing that is at the back is fluid filled) and air hammer twisting out.

It would actually be GREAT if those who sold these bushings would also sell the UCAs ready to go for most people.

It was the removal that was CRAZY. The installation of the new ones was pretty simple if you had a tool to press in the new bushings, Instruction were hazy at best,,,but I am glad we spent the time. Even reinstalling the A-Arms was a bit of "forceful prying" to get them back in place.

I do have to say that after the install, the Mini sat a bit taller...probably from less deflection/softness than the stock bushings. Like the brand states … it takes POWERFLEX to Flex the new ones.

 

If you wanted to return to stock how tough you think it'd be? Or maybe two sets of control arms, one stock, one powerflex, or do you have to lower the subframe to get the arms out?

 

We did not lower the subframe...we did use some force with a large prybar to remount the A-Arms but they are strong! I decided in the beginning to go with the Black Race Bushing but you could also go with the PowerFLEX bushing that are between stock and Black. I have the yellow PowerFlex Bushing in the lower motor mount and it was great!

I wish at least that those who sell PowerFlex would also sell AT LEAST an empty UCA so you could at least save your stock A-Arm I guess.

This morning I will be resetting the ride height and double checking the alignment...will know more

 

Got to resetting the ride height this morning...Rides so much better. it was too low before and was topping out the front struts. Went from 12.4" to 13.4" in the front...kept the rear at the 13.7" it was already at.

 

Did the Polyflex bushing push the control arm out towards the front, thought I saw that somewhere? Did it improve the road feel in the car?
I miss the feel of my 86 VW (non power steering) it felt so connected to the road. I've been trying to duplicate that visceral feel/connectivity but have not been able to as of yet. I should post a rant about it

 

Maybe when I get a chance to check the "new alignment" it may show a change that could be linked to the new bushings...good point!

 

I have the powerflex bushings in my S, both the camber-adustable ones and the ones at the rear of the arms.

I paid a shop to press the OEs out, at $25 per bushing. My corner mechanic couldn't do it, had to go to a specialty shop.

Yes, 'road feel' is a good way to describe the difference. As in, you feel everything! All the way down to the texture- rough asphalt feels like you're sitting on a skateboard. For the first 5,000 miles, it was a bit rough. They did break in eventually, now tolerable. On a street car... no I don't think I'd do it again. But if you already have stiff suspension, and want even more, then maybe they are right for you! However, I'd be very interested in looking into GP3 bushings- I believe they say they are stiffer, although I'm sure it's still OE-type rubber. Also wondering how they got more camber, whether it's the arms or knuckles.

Oh yeah, and camber on the powerflex. So first thing- adjustment once installed in the car is a pain. The tool doesn't actually really fit. You have to undo the arm at the knuckle, and ratchet the bushing by swinging down the arm, then tighten. And yes this pushes the wheel out quite a bit, at the top as well. If your wheels are already really flush, you might end up rubbing. For most people running big fitments, it's probably the opposite direction you want to be moving.

So yeah, for that reason as well, I would do camber plates instead of camber bushings next time.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but wanted to give my experience!

 

I agree that the Camber Bushings would ALWAYS be a PITA to adjust...Luckily I have Camber Plates ;0-)

 

if you get offset bushings set them for max castor and use the top strut mounts to adjust camber. You can also get -1 or -1.5 offset ball joints, I would think these affect more than just the camber as they are a pivot point for the arm

 

I don't believe there are offset ball joints for the F56. There is a OEM offset knuckle, that adds 0.5 deg. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

 

Agreed, we couldn't find any more parts other than the angled knuckle, camber bushing, and camber plates. I would love another half a degree if offset ball joints become an option. As it is I believe custom/modified lca is the next reasonable step.

 

Folks, how hard was it to replace the #1 bushing with a Powerflex? An O.E. bushing cant be re-inserted once removed correct i.e. would need a new FCA? This is pretty much all I got left for mod's, my do a CAT delete.

 

Correct, once the bushing is out, there is no getting one back in. I took my arms off and brought them to a specialty suspension shop that does a lot of work on trucks. My corner mechanic didn't have a big enough press. They charged me $25 per bushing. Putting in the Powerflex yourself is no problem.

I recently went back to new OEM arms though. Got tired of the rough ride from the poly, and trying to track down a slight clunk. The power flex did break-in over time, and rode less harsh than initially. Still haven't found that clunk though. But still, the OEM is nicer. Personally I don't think I'll do poly bushings again. When these need replacement, will do new OEM arms. They're not expensive.

 

Thank you . I'll find another distraction then.

 

Advanced race. The rear member was commentated as poor, the r56 had those in aluminium, we have the bushing ready for the left side in unibal, who has used that on a R56 knows without it = no sound race setup. The front has harder bushing and unibal, where you can tune the camber even more, as Öhlins offer 3,7 via the top bearings.

The part can be sourced - dealer inquires Wellcome :-)

 

How much in USA dollars?

 

Looks like it was about a 4-Ciggy job.

 

for sure for you )))

 

Interesting video about racing or whatever that means. Bye the way one of the MINIs seen was driven by one of the best BMW test drivers, who did the setup of the GP3 as well !