Hello,

Just recently changed out my coolant hoses, thermostat housing, water pipe, new coils, new spark plugs, hot&cold side charge pipe.
Went out for a test run. The car ran great. On my way back on the local street, I rolled down my window. That when I noticed the car did something weird. After a semi hard acceleration and release the pedal, the flutter sound come on first then the pssst sound of the diverter valve. I think normally they are simultaneously. Tried it a again, the same thing happened.
However, on the third time, during my acceleration, heard something like a loud suction sound. I don't know if it was my intake taking in more air or something, but it was delayed. The suction sound came on as I was gaining speed. I kept pressing the pedal and suddenly the suction sound stop and the light came on. I think I lost some power also.
I had my obdii reader on and used dashcommand. Couldn't pull up any code except the P2187 "lean at idle bank 1" which has been popping up for awhile
If any of you guys experienced this, please help me out.

P.s. the car has M7 CAI, and all the new stuff I mentioned above.

Thank you so much in advance

 

Not a suction sound. A pressure leak sound. Reads like the intake sprung a leak and the engine lost boost.

 

Check the hose clamps on your charge pipes, not just that they are tight, but on nice and straight and even. I’ve had one that was cocked just a tiny bit and it was enough to cause a boost leak. Also check the intake for anything that isn’t sealed up. You replaced a bunch of stuff at once, so it’s most likely related. It sounds like a boost leak. If that all checks out you may want to check the diverter valve. They can fail when the diaphragm or the plastic ring tear.
You need to get the codes read too, that may help narrow it down. I know you said you have dash command, so do I, it won’t read all of the codes. There are some proprietary manufacturers codes that most general scan tools can’t read. You to use something with the BMW software to give you all the codes. As an example, My R60 was in limp mode, and dash command showed nothing, and when I had autozone scan it, they showed no codes. When I had it scanned at a Euro shop, their scanner showed 6 active codes. The scanner makes a big difference with these cars. I only use dash command to compensate for the complete lack of gauges! But for codes I use the Schwaben scan tool from ECS Tuning. You can use Carly but it requires a subscription I believe. There is a computer program or two out there you can use that you can do coding with as well, and the special cable is under $50. I do not know for sure, but it may be in German. Lol.
Good luck and keep us posted

 

Thanks guys. Didn't want to take it this morning for a 3 hours commute. I'll will double check everything tomorrow and keep you posted.

Carly app would be able to read those codes or no?

 

I think it can with the subscription, but I can’t say for sure, I dont use it myself

 

Spent a whole day tightened up everything again... Had a bunch of codes show up. Misfire on 1,3,4. And the check engine light also came up.
Turned out, the PVC pipe has a huge crack, went to the dealership and got ripped off.
In case you guys are wondering, the pipe itself is $99 dollars. Since I know the lady that is working there, she gave me military discount. Ended up paying$70 for a **-$&$!$ piece of plastic tube.
The car is running fine, now. There is no stuttering, idle at 800 rpm even, hard acceleration without any leak. but I cannot clear the stupid codes. Hopefully I can drive it for couple days and they will clear themselves out.

Thanks again for all your help.

 

Good to hear that's all it was, I like a nice easy fix! And if you got it fixed for only $70, you came out ahead. Nice!
The codes may disappear from the gauge, but will most likely be saved until they are erased by someone with a scan tool. At least the warning light should go away after a bit. unless its something that is still occurring. If the fault is still present it will stay on. but if its not, the light should go off, and the code archived.
Just out of curiosity, which pipe was it?

 

Top left of the engine, crank case vent tube ????
Yes and no.... Since it was part of the big job, and I already spent so much $$$ on parts and tools. That $70 for a thin plastic tube seem ridiculous.
But you're right, could be a lot worst. 😁