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Mine has no issues when I am driving in the twisties with little traffic other than other performance driving small cars. However, when I am in the city (Cincinnati) and traveling the clogged Interstates where there are no viable alternatives I have experienced the exhaust closing and attribute it to the plethora of blue tooth devices being used in close proximity. It has never closed randomly on backroads or the track.
Per my signature, just picked up my new JWC-International Orange on Saturday. Was frustrated that sometimes the flap would open and other times not. Was about to post a thread wondering if I was screwing up what appears to be pretty simple double click. Then, I saw info on disconnecting. Kept vehicle running with flap open. Disconnected the harness. Bingo . Turned off, Restarted. GREAT!. No more screwing around with the button.
QUESTION: Often it seems it takes 20-30 seconds after start up and putting it in Sport Mode, before I finally start to hear pops. Explanation please, is that normal?
My appreciation to members. Was away from MINI since 2012.Glad I am back!
Last edited by DoubleNick; Jun 26, 2019 at 07:34 PM.
QUESTION: Often it seems it takes 20-30 seconds after start up and putting it in Sport Mode, before I finally start to hear pops. Explanation please, is that normal?
My appreciation to members. Was away from MINI since 2012.Glad I am back!
The car needs to get to operating temperature first before it will allow the pops. also note, if the EGT's (exhaust Gas Temps) get too high, it will stop the pops to allow them to cool down, then will start again.
Again, thanks for the info. My neighbors have survived 5.0 Mustangs with off road H-Pipes, Z 28’s with LoudMouth exhausts, My Vette with the LM, my old JCW with resonator delete, Solo exhaust on another Mustang, a Race exhaust on my Miata, and of course my old Abarth, the only car I didn’t have to mod the exhaust.
What I like about the Pro exhaust, it can be quiet when needed. I pulled the cable- keeps the flap open, when I need to be nice I flip whatever the 2 other modes are.
When I was 16 I loved loud exhausts, closing in on 76, still do. Nick
Heads up to all still having issues with their system- @SoCalF56 came up with a great hard-wired system using a relay box and a bit of wiring to the cable / control box from the JCW system. I just finished putting it all together and in the car, and it works great. Hard button for on and off, each and every time, stays in the mode you left it in when starting the car again, and never gets shut down from interference. No remote to lose or battery to replace. I'll be posting soon with instructions and a diagram.
Heads up to all still having issues with their system- @SoCalF56 came up with a great hard-wired system using a relay box and a bit of wiring to the cable / control box from the JCW system. I just finished putting it all together and in the car, and it works great. Hard button for on and off, each and every time, stays in the mode you left it in when starting the car again, and never gets shut down from interference. No remote to lose or battery to replace. I'll be posting soon with instructions and a diagram.
Heads up to all still having issues with their system- @SoCalF56 came up with a great hard-wired system using a relay box and a bit of wiring to the cable / control box from the JCW system. I just finished putting it all together and in the car, and it works great. Hard button for on and off, each and every time, stays in the mode you left it in when starting the car again, and never gets shut down from interference. No remote to lose or battery to replace. I'll be posting soon with instructions and a diagram.
=)
I have have multiple EE's in my office. If there is enough interest I could potentially do a small production run of complete kits to bypass the bluetooth function.
Last edited by charrigan; Jun 28, 2019 at 09:53 PM.
@charrigan, sure, that could be great. Although the design is done and ready to build... unless they see any areas for improvement. Other than that, I think it's something that could be done by a couple high school kids from the robotics club. Just a bunch of wiring really.
Separate issue... anyone else have problems with the mid-pipe clamp coming undone? Admittedly, mine is a bit rusty- I think it spent some time on the east coast. But it's come loose twice, and I feel like I really cranked on it. Had my mechanic do it on the second time just now. He thought it's not the nuts coming loose, but the metal stretching. I dunno. Thinking to add lock washers if it happens again. Anyone else?
So just to add a question to this thread. Just installed mine last weekend. It doesn't close by itself... but it seems that sometimes the button doesn't respond... is that normal? I'd say after 2/3 attempts it opens every time... but I just didn't expect it to lag like that...
Separate issue... anyone else have problems with the mid-pipe clamp coming undone? Admittedly, mine is a bit rusty- I think it spent some time on the east coast. But it's come loose twice, and I feel like I really cranked on it. Had my mechanic do it on the second time just now. He thought it's not the nuts coming loose, but the metal stretching. I dunno. Thinking to add lock washers if it happens again. Anyone else?
Had this happen to me last month, driving through the canyon and the MINI started sounding really odd and at a stop was shaking violently underneath. The mid-pipe clamp was coming undone and good thing there's a cross brace to hold it in place, my JCW is only 4 months old. I was really upset cause this was just another issue I was having about MINI's questionable build quality. So I jacked it up in the garage and fixed it with the impact wrench, then hit it with the Red Cross check to see if that damn bolt ever comes loose again.
Well, after my JCW showing 30K [+/-] the flap decided to not open a couple mornings ago. It was the first day the temp dropped to freezing and somehow as I never believe in coincidences in Life I figured it was the cold affecting the metal friction/movement. I hope this makes sense!!!!
So I drove it up my Mountains for a while and pulled over at a vista parking to try again. It worked...
I had bookmarked a while back on how to permanently fix the flap to the open position as I knew some day this would happen MyRedMini.com. [How to keep your F-56 JCW Tuning Kit always on]. Took me less than 5 minutes and that was that! One less function when driving the car as I have NEVER driven this car only in sport mode and flap open...
I do live in a very quiet neighborhood but basically just idle onto the main road only a mile away from the Mountain road going up.
I need to add another point having to do with the future longevity of the car. I happen to read this also on another Forum and yet have been doing it all my Life with all my cars and motorcycles also.
From a cold start I drive a couple miles never going over 2500RPM after idling the engine at a stand still for a few minutes. On my way back home, I slow down on those same miles [maybe more than 2!] and drive the car again never going over 2500RPM. When finally parked, I let the engine run for a few minutes...
I am not a mechanic or engineer and I am not professing that this indeed helps the longevity of the engine. It just to me has always made sense... and feels good to do so! Just as today at 74 I need some time in the morning with high test coffee to start running on all cylinders!!!
I have have multiple EE's in my office. If there is enough interest I could potentially do a small production run of complete kits to bypass the bluetooth function.
I have a 2019 F57 MCS convertible with the S3ARA factory bike rack option. Dealership was not able to install JCW PRO exhaust due to the wiring module for the bike rack kit occupying the space needed for the module for the. JCW Pro exhaust module. They are waiting to hear back from BMW with ideas.
This the same issue I've been experiencing on my 2015 JCW. I took the car in for service Nov 2019 and they said they ordered a new module in the rear and a remote. It wasn't clear if they flashed the firmware for this but regardless it's still not working as it was when I first received it.
I also have an Apple Watch and I can absolutely say that the Bluetooth signal from the watch interferes with the exhaust controller. It's completely random in how it behaves, one click, two clicks, three it opens. Annoying to say the least and yes opening the valve and disconnecting the harness works but living in Los Angeles with an open exhaust is like a honey pot. Having the convenience of controlling when you want it open and or closed is a major factor.
I have an appointment tomorrow at a different dealership to see if they can rectify the issue with a firmware update.
To top it off, I told the dealer not to wash my car because I have a front plate holder in the front bumper, my license plate came out like a taco and the plate holder was completely bent and the interior trim was not put back as it was when I brought the car in.
I can tell you to stay away from the MINI dealership by Signal Hill, CA. I'll let you figure that one out.
Quality dealership work Quality dealership work Quality dealership work
Does keeping it open all the time have any negative effects other than the car just being loud all the time?
Only that every "hot" piece of junk, with a bear-can exhaust, wants to pass you. Sometimes, Camaros, Mustangs, and Chragers will do the same. BMWs not so much.
Was there ever a final resolution to this thread, i.e. was a TBS issued by MINI USA? I have an appointment on 5/23/2023 at Crevier Mini, Santa Ana, SoCal. I've already spoken to the service manager. He said he will try to work with MINI to have at least the replacement module covered. However, it looks like I'm going to get stuck with a diagnostic fee and the labor charge, if not the entire cost. If that is the case, I will save the money and hassle and drive with the flap wide open on a permanent basis.
Good luck. I got lucky and had mine replaced under warranty years back the car only had 3,500 miles on it. I was told they replaced the module. I'm guessing it might be a common problem ?
Last edited by RetroBoat; May 18, 2023 at 11:03 AM.
I got mine repaired under warranty. It's a known issue with the module in the back. Once they replaced it, I never had the issue again. They should take care of all of the costs given the situation.
I do think the whole thing is overrated. I'm told it only adds something like 6-7 HP. Don't feel it by seat of the pants just a little more growl and pops. Not a big fan of the popping.
The majority of the added hp comes from the tuning kit and the reprogramming. The exhaust adds about 8hp. It's more for the sound effect. I love it as does the wife. She drives it mostly and has asked me to unplug the module again, so she can have permanent 'loud' mode.
For those that may now be out of warranty with the vavle being stuck issue (or Bluetooth remote issue); I think this is a workaround that can apply perfectly with our cars
I reached out to Valvetronic and they confirmed it should work with the JCW Pro exhaust. You'd eliminate the JCW original module, wiring harness, and Bluetooth adapter. Their module just uses the cigarette outlet which we can wire up to the trunk. The remote uses the same RF frequencies as US Car Garage Door openers (i say US because I think Europe is on a different frequency). So those who have homelink mirror option, can program one of those buttons to control the exhaust valve!