I lost the gray clip the same way, and lost some blood too across my knuckles. It is tight quarters and sharp edges down there with just the air ducts removed, but the plug should come right out. Some have removed more parts to gain better access. A long needlenose is one preferred approach to getting the plug out and the new one lined up and in. Enjoy the extra boost.

POST#257 on this tread has a photo of my installation.

 

You can become a member of the Dinan Bleeding Hands Club if you work it just right. Pliers the longer the better.

 

Thanks for the advice! It didn't want to come out at all—to the point where I was wondering if there was another clip on the backside of it. It was also about 20º F out so decided it need to wait and make sure I can take my time so I don't break the harness.

 

hope this is just obvious, but you guys having problems are aware that the grey clip doesn't HOLD the plug in, it just locks it in. there's a black clip inside the plug that holds it all together. the idea is that when you pull the gray clip back, you're unlocking the plug, and then pressing down on the gray clip pulls up the black clip on the inside, and then the plug comes loose.

if this is obvious to everyone, then my apologies. just making someone isn't overlooking this.

 

I know from the directions that you need to push down on the grey clip but mine went flying into the engine bay. I assume with it completely off, nothing was holding the plug in place. I wonder how I can create the same effect without the clip in. Thanks for the heads up.

 

well again...like i said...the grey clip just holds down the actual clip, which is black....call it a reinforcement. w/out the grey clip, the plug will still "click" in, but will be easier to click loose. i lost my TMAP clip and it's been steady for well over a year now.

 

Ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the info!

 

I've noticed that when I first installed the Dinan my car was very twitchy in all modes and just wanted to move. Now it seems like the ECU has adjusted and even in Race Mode it just isn't the same.

Anyone else notice this?

 

I have not noticed this.

I will say this. I have become completely accustomed to running with my Dinan, in Race mode. I no longer "feel" the same twitchy throttle response of which I was initially aware when I installed the Dinan.

I also have wondered if I have subtly altered the way I apply the gas because the car has trained me to smooth out the Dinan-caused throttle response. Who knows?

A simple test would be to disconnect the Dinan box, return the car to factory normal TMAP connection, and run for two or three days with several on/off ignition cycles.

Assuming air flow (clean filter) and fuel flow/quality are constant throughout the process, re-installation of the Dinan after a few days will reveal what, if anything, has changed.

I am tempted to do the disconnect/reconnect drill, but my need for speed causes me to hesitate to live even a day without my Dinan.

Keep us posted.

 

Bloody knuckles again ,no thanks. I will however drop the mode back down to stock.

 

Lol. Bloody knuckles. I'm part of that group.

 

Has anyone removed the Dinan box--ie switched the stock back in--for dealer service yet? Any issues?

 

yep I have twice in fact. so far nothing has been mentioned to me form my service guys.

 

Great, thank you subzero05. Do you also have an intake, cat-back, etc or is the Dinan box your only mod thus far?

 

currently just the box. Looking into an intake and dinan exhaust but haven't pulled the trigger yet

 

Any more observations from Dinan box (D440-0012) users who have been driving with them for some time?

Opinions on installing with only 100 miles on the clock...

Thank you all in advance.

 

I waited 1,000 miles from new before installing the Dinan. Have had zero issues after 4 months continuous use.

 

Thanks for the quick reply and helpful feedback

 

Generally, the issues are installation wounds to the hands/knuckles -- the TMAP plug can be a challenge. The clip on the TMAP plug is a bit tricky -- there's a gray clip that can fly out an be lost forever, which is no big deal.

Also the blue tooth can be funky.

Make sure you have the most recent app downloaded and make sure your car is fully powered down and off prior to installation of the box.

Other than that, the results are a hoot you will feel for sure. Lay 1,000 miles on your car for a little break in-- your patience will be rewarded.

 

I ran it for a few days in stock mode and by the end it was anemic. I put it back into race mode and the car instantly perked up. It definitely levels off from the initial install but can't see driving without it now unless in sport mode full time. Sport mode and race mode at same time , yeah fun.

 

So the DME adjusts to the consistently elevated boost, and it modulates the top end psi (down)? Very interesting.

I will definitely remember to shut everything down, lock the doors, etc. I have it on order and it will call for more restraint than I have historically shown to observe a complete break-in period...

 

Been lurking since I signed up and posted once a year ago. Shameful I know. My writing is horrible please just skip this post if you prefer well written articles.

I installed the NM Module on my 2015 JCW about 1500KM ago. This is my experience so far.... I use 91 grade because it is the best that is readily available where I am. And running the stock 17s for a point of reference.

Black Betty was bought to be driven hard. My girl had about 11K on her before the install. Floor to the mat is nothing new to her. As you all know the passing torque on a 2way split highway is the best part of the JCW. In the past I would be around 80kmh when start passing a full semi and up in the 165-170 range when done.

My skill set for mechanics and abilities to use tools is somewhere between a carrot and a 14 year old cheerleader. Not very impressive. So armed with a socket 7, and 10 mm. A flat head screwdriver to pull the tabs out and some zip ties I went to work.

The picture instructions were very clear and easy to follow. I had no issues following or need to double check. I was able to complete a first time install in around 15 minutes. No bloody knuckles. I felt empowered like I could fix something. But had the common sense not to try a different project.

I drove it around for 20-30 minutes with no aggression put on the car in normal mode. Then parked it for the night. Drove it a few days later. The charger lag has always been on this car and I think it was a constant delay before and after. No big deal I have always just pre planned acceleration. It was fun to play with and worth the money but not anything to write about.

So I opened the hood up, jiggled the unit off the velcro strap (which fits nice and snug in the suggested spot in the pictures) and toggled it to race. I drove the car like I had my children in it or beer in the boot. You know the type of driving you do with loved ones. Response felt sloppy. It was choppy trying to keep it at speed with what for a lack of better words felt like the motor was struggling or trying to do very small stalls. So I parked it for the night.

I do not know when it away, or if I have just changed my driving habits to make up for it but I am convert now. Betty acts like a tweaker now. She cant stay still and she just runs like her life depends on it. There is so much torque when paddle shifting I am squawking in third still and have to pay attention for oversteering.

Acceleration when passing is now at the point where I worry about the cars I am passing calling 911 about the hotrod that blew past them. I have seen 204 after passing a semi from an 80 start.

I regret buying this for only one reason. Now I need tires that can handle what I am putting down and I do not even know how to shop for tires.

 

This is an old thread now, so I hate to do this, but I've had my module installed for quite some time now, and just recently the car started to throwing engine codes, and went into limp mode. The only way to get it back to normal? Pull the dinantronics. So now my JCW sits with no Dinan tune and I MISS IT. Anyone else experiencing this and what was the resolution if you found one?

Here is an excerpt from MINI:
------
engine/drive train malfunction light was cause by

dinan plug in tune. found faults for charging pressure too

low and charging system shut off. changed settings on dinan

tuner to see if faults would go away same faults always

returned coupled with poor idle. removed dinan tune, cleared

faults and test drove. no faults returned idle at cold start

is now smooth there was also hesitation under acceleration

that was also gone after un-installing tune. vehicle is

operating as intended. advise customer to try dinan tune

when weather is more stable


------

 

Maybe device is malfunctioning? Did you contact Dinan? What is unstable about your weather? Seems like an odd comment.

 

Contact Dinan ASAP. Share what you have with them. They are all about how their products won't jack up our cars. I would not be accusatory, but I would solicit Dinan's assistance in determining if/how their product caused faults in your car.

As an aside, there have been reports of faulty sensors causing faults like you have experienced, so the Dinan may be coincidental to another issue. That's why I wouldn't be accusatory but would seek support to figure out what, EXACTLY, caused the issue.

Oh, and NEVER apologize for reviving an old thread when you have valuable info like this to share. We appreciate it

Keep us posted please.