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Those are good points. I did contact Dinan, they suggested that I check to make sure the tuner was plugged in properly (of course it was) that the connections were good by doing a "wiggle" test, and that I send them the codes. The only thing I've not done is send them the codes because my dealer didn't get them written down as you can see. But I can provide them that service ticket at least. I need to do that today or tomorrow. Our weather (when it was occuring) was going through very large swings in temperature as is common in KS/Missouri area in the spring. Start at the 40's end at the 80's and back down again. Really don't think that was anything more than a guess.
I've also heard of these bad sensors you mention, but nothing specific. Dinan mentioned that, but I don't know what to have my dealer replace. Although seems unlikely they would be willing to try that unless a specific instance is shown to be bad.
I would think if sensors were bad that you would then experience the same issue's without the Dinan box.
To me all signs point to the Dinan box but it's anyone's guess at this point. I guess the one thing we all get to see is how good Dinan's customer support is in matters like this.
I posted this on the F54 thread but I thought some wise JCWers might weigh in on this:
It's been hot. The other day we were crawling home in SoCal freeway traffic and it was over 100 outside -- can't imagine what the under-bonnet temp was as we sat, stop-and-go, for over an hour on the freeway.
I've had my Dinan set to 'Race" for a couple of thousand miles without a hiccup. Running 91 top tier pump gas. For the first time, in the stop-and-go heat, when I pressed on the gas rolling at about 5MPH, I got a little knock/preignition rattle sound that wasn't happy. Never had it before. Happened a few times on this run only.
Might just be the heat, or the car's need for a little blowing out of the tubes. Issue has not recurred since that day.
We're getting ready to take a run up to the Yosemite area next week and will be taking the Clubman over the hill and up Route 99 through the California Central Valley heat. Hopefully we'll fly right along, but I turned the Dinan down a notch to Sport+ and plan to leave it there for the round trip. Almost all highway so I think 3 lbs of extra boost will be plenty.
I'm thinking about adding a little Redline gas treatment when I fill up for the trip. Any thoughts?
this is an old thread now, so i hate to do this, but i've had my module installed for quite some time now, and just recently the car started to throwing engine codes, and went into limp mode. The only way to get it back to normal? Pull the dinantronics. So now my jcw sits with no dinan tune and i miss it. Anyone else experiencing this and what was the resolution if you found one?
Here is an excerpt from mini:
------
engine/drive train malfunction light was cause by
dinan plug in tune. Found faults for charging pressure too
low and charging system shut off. Changed settings on dinan
tuner to see if faults would go away same faults always
returned coupled with poor idle. Removed dinan tune, cleared
faults and test drove. No faults returned idle at cold start
is now smooth there was also hesitation under acceleration
that was also gone after un-installing tune. Vehicle is
operating as intended. Advise customer to try dinan tune
I realize I have a different motor/JCW than 'yall, but can you owners get a Stage 1 ECU tune on that JCW car? Because I just got one on my car on Saturday and man, it's a beast. I considered getting a JB+ clipon module but the tune ($500) isn't much more expensive. The guy who did mine (Manicmini) said it's not available for the Gen3 cars yet.
I realize I have a different motor/JCW than 'yall, but can you owners get a Stage 1 ECU tune on that JCW car? Because I just got one on my car on Saturday and man, it's a beast. I considered getting a JB+ clipon module but the tune ($500) isn't much more expensive. The guy who did mine (Manicmini) said it's not available for the Gen3 cars yet.
I thought 2014 was the first year for the Gen3 minis.
I thought 2014 was the first year for the Gen3 minis.
It was, for the F56 hatch. I have the R58 Coupe, which they quit making in the 2015 model year. So the Gen2 and Gen3 cars sort of overlapped in 14-15. Same thing happened on the Gen1 and Gen2 cars back in 2007-8.
I realize I have a different motor/JCW than 'yall, but can you owners get a Stage 1 ECU tune on that JCW car? Because I just got one on my car on Saturday and man, it's a beast. I considered getting a JB+ clipon module but the tune ($500) isn't much more expensive. The guy who did mine (Manicmini) said it's not available for the Gen3 cars yet.
Why post this on Gen 3? Just confusing to people. Gen 3 Manic tunes exist, so not sure why your guy told you that.
It does? In the US? Can't find any info on it anywhere.
Someone on the east coast mentioned they had it done. I confirmed with MarioKart and he said for the Manual transmission it would be available within a month and that was more than a month ago. Actually 3/22/17 that he said next month.
It does? In the US? Can't find any info on it anywhere.
Way Motor Works does them. You can mail your ECU to them in Atlanta and he said he could even apply the ManicMini tune and mail your ECU back the same day. I didn't ask him about the F56 engine though.
Someone on the east coast mentioned they had it done. I confirmed with MarioKart and he said for the Manual transmission it would be available within a month and that was more than a month ago. Actually 3/22/17 that he said next month.
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Totally confusing. That said, I'm not sure the F56 JCW needs more power ... this from a long time racer and E39 M5 owner. My intent was to add a module or tune, but after driving it for a while, I'm not sure it needs it. Why:
1 - It's very quick as is
2 - As much as I enjoy the manual mode on the auto, I'm always blasting through speed limits so I'm always dialing back
3 - It's more than enough for the street ... frankly the regular Cooper is probably perfect
Will that keep me from modding it ... no, it hasn't yet; however, the car really doesn't need more power in the real world.
It's always nice to have that extra power. Use accordingly, I do agree that you can easily get over the speed limit real fast.
That's my entire point. Much of the fun of the JCW is that it is very quick. It is so quick that I'm always exceeding the speed limits, otherwise I'm pretty bored. The advertised 0-60 time is not great; however, it is achievable in real world driving with little effort, which is great. That is not true of many much faster machines.
Interesting...one of the three area dealers is now selling Dinantronics modules and installing them. SA says does not affect MINI warranty but if module itself fails it's a Dinan problem.
Totally confusing. That said, I'm not sure the F56 JCW needs more power ... this from a long time racer and E39 M5 owner. My intent was to add a module or tune, but after driving it for a while, I'm not sure it needs it. Why:
1 - It's very quick as is
2 - As much as I enjoy the manual mode on the auto, I'm always blasting through speed limits so I'm always dialing back
3 - It's more than enough for the street ... frankly the regular Cooper is probably perfect
Will that keep me from modding it ... no, it hasn't yet; however, the car really doesn't need more power in the real world.
That's why I held out for so long. Now that I have the tune, I've become sort of a "stoplight racer", which isn't necessarily good, but it is fun. But I agree, the JCW is pretty quick the way it comes. With the tune it's probably one of the fastest cars on the road that one can afford.
Bytetronik Stage 1 Tunes are ready for prime time in both the S and JCW (in both Manual and Auto).
Car #1: This is the dyno gragh from the JCW (w/ Auto tranny). We ran this JCW on the Mustang Dyno in AWD mode b/c we didn't want to put the car into "dyno mode".
Modifications:
2015 Factory JCW Auto
2 gallons of E85 mixed with a full tank of 91 Octane;
Bytetronik (BT) Stage 1 Flash;
Everything else stock
Power Output to the wheels (Not BHP!): OEM Stock: 231 WHP / 248 WTQE BT Stage-1 Flash: 276 WHP / 326 WTQE (~442NM)
Gains: +45 WHP; +78 WTQE
Dyno pulls were all done on the same day within 30 minutes of one another. Outside temperature was about 80-degrees Fahrenheit.
Parameters Adjusted:
Raised Speed limiter (VMAX)
Fuel Pressure raised
Target Lambda optimized
Clutch torque optimized
Optimum torque optimized
Torque monitors optimized
Schubblurbben (burble) parameters optimized for more bangs and pop
Race start (launch control) start temperature modified
Price for the Stage 1 ECU Flash:$695 (buyer pays shipping to and from). You will need to remove the ECU from your car and send that in to us for bench flashing. If you do not want your ECU to be opened, then this service is NOT for you.
BT Tuned F56-S in the UK runs down the 1/4 mile at 13.55 seconds @ 107.46MPH!!!
Nice gains.
Bonnet open or closed?
Did you drive the cars on the road? If so, please report general driving dynamics such as 0- 60 acceleration from a stop/acceleration from 20 to 60, and/or from 40 to 100, and so on.
Also,it would be interesting to learn how your tune works in the all wheel drive cars like the Clubman and new Countryman -- cars that manage torque steer differently. Might get some scary quick 0 - 60 times.
Is it your view that these cars can manage your tune without further mods to injectors, plugs, cooling system?
Nice work. Can't wait to learn more about real world performance.
Nice gains.
1) Bonnet open or closed?
2) Did you drive the cars on the road? If so, please report general driving dynamics such as 0- 60 acceleration from a stop/acceleration from 20 to 60, and/or from 40 to 100, and so on.
3) Also,it would be interesting to learn how your tune works in the all wheel drive cars like the Clubman and new Countryman -- cars that manage torque steer differently. Might get some scary quick 0 - 60 times.
4) Is it your view that these cars can manage your tune without further mods to injectors, plugs, cooling system?
Nice work. Can't wait to learn more about real world performance.
thanks
Answers below:
1) Bonnets closed during dyno runs
2) The JCW is our shop car and one of the daily drivers; it behaves like a factory - just much quicker when the gas pedal is depressed. The S-Manual is 1320MINI's daily driver and Paul/Thomas drives that everyday. The 1/4 mile time is a clear indication of speed and power, as well as the dyno graphs.
3) Have not tried it on a All4 vehicle yet... stayed tuned.
4) Our test cars are pretty much STOCK. The JCW is bone stock factory JCW; the "S" manual only has the Airtech IC and an exhaust (refer to mod list in our post). Injectors and plugs are all OEM stock.
No still fighting it. Had car flashed with new code from MINI, I just reinstalled the module today. STILL throwing drivetrain malfunction code. I do not' know what to do from here. DINAN says it's the car and MINI says the car is fine....I'm going to try to get a replacement tuner and hope that it's something wrong with it....beyond that I'm at a complete loss. Anyone else know what to do?
This car ran fine with the tuner installed from Oct/2016 -> May 2017....now it throws engine codes straight away when installed.
hey Dinan im hoping you can help. I work in the service department at a MINI dealership and we have been selling and installing these on customer cars and I had one come back in today with a code for charging pressure sensor, signal: Pressure too high during after run. Have you guys seen this yet? Any help would be appreciated.
Exactly the same problem I'm having. Any update? Any resolution?
Congrats to the 1320 Team
