JCW So...no one in NAM has a Manual transmission yet?
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So...no one in NAM has a Manual transmission yet?
No one in North America has driven one? Please post your impressions or when you think you will pick yours up.
We had some problems with the manual in some MCS's - jumping out of gear.. R56 had some DMF clutch problems. This car has significantly more power so it would be good to hear how it all feels and looks!
We had some problems with the manual in some MCS's - jumping out of gear.. R56 had some DMF clutch problems. This car has significantly more power so it would be good to hear how it all feels and looks!
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No one in North America has driven one? Please post your impressions or when you think you will pick yours up.
We had some problems with the manual in some MCS's - jumping out of gear.. R56 had some DMF clutch problems. This car has significantly more power so it would be good to hear how it all feels and looks!
We had some problems with the manual in some MCS's - jumping out of gear.. R56 had some DMF clutch problems. This car has significantly more power so it would be good to hear how it all feels and looks!
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Gregory K - My dealership is about a 60+ minute truck drive from the VDC...so unless something like this happens (YIKES!!)..I should be good to go.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/vpc/vpc17.JPG
This MINI was on the lower level of a transport truck. The shipper lowered the upper deck and crushed the roof.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/vpc/vpc17.JPG
This MINI was on the lower level of a transport truck. The shipper lowered the upper deck and crushed the roof.
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Straight from the Mini Product Manager, there are only 19 2015 JCW manual transmissions, so yes it will be rare. As far as them being less valuable in a few years, I doubt that. The year of the car does not really effect the resale value, it is determined more by mileage and other factors.
Ordered in March and am scheduled for production in July, so hopefully will have the car in early to mid August.
Ordered in March and am scheduled for production in July, so hopefully will have the car in early to mid August.
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Looks like we had our first "forum" delivery of a JCW 6MT a few days ago. You can see in picture 5 there's still the radiator in the driver-side bumper duct, so it's definitely not auto trans related.
I love the look of the shifter.
I love the look of the shifter.
During that thread, they mentioned the break-in period. in your opinion, is it as simple as their dealer said, by keeping it below the red line, I assume until 1200 miles, or is it more involved than that?
Also RE the oil change, I take it that it's advisable to change oil for the first time after the break-in period, i.e. around 1200 miles?
Sorry if this might have been covered elsewhere, thanks for your help!
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Also twiddling thumbs here.
Re: break-in period. Mechanical wear surfaces [rings and bearings mainly] need operation to mate their surfaces for minimum long-term wear and minimum oil consumption. As for "internet knowledge", the less technical wisdom people have on the topic, the more hysterical they react to it. From the owners perspective, there's little you can do to alter the break-in characteristics, given the engines are already run-in most of the way at the engine assembly plant. Just drive it "normally", however you define that. Theoretically, you want to expose the engine to the full breadth of desired operation during the break-in period, but given you're only in control of perhaps the final few percent of break-in after delivery, whatever you do will make little long-term impact. FYI this advice is really only relevant for current-gen modern TGDI engines almost regardless of brand. If you're building an old school SBC, it's a different topic since they're pretty much archaic.
Re: oil change. Given most of the break-in is at the assembly plant, there is no break-in oil in the engine at delivery. That said, an early 1st interval oil change is a good idea to keep the remaining break-in wear metals in low concentration. What that mileage "should" be is your discretion; I usually go for somewhere between a 1k-5k 1st interval oil change, do a Used Oil Analysis [UOA], then a slightly longer interval, UOA, and go from there.
Re: break-in period. Mechanical wear surfaces [rings and bearings mainly] need operation to mate their surfaces for minimum long-term wear and minimum oil consumption. As for "internet knowledge", the less technical wisdom people have on the topic, the more hysterical they react to it. From the owners perspective, there's little you can do to alter the break-in characteristics, given the engines are already run-in most of the way at the engine assembly plant. Just drive it "normally", however you define that. Theoretically, you want to expose the engine to the full breadth of desired operation during the break-in period, but given you're only in control of perhaps the final few percent of break-in after delivery, whatever you do will make little long-term impact. FYI this advice is really only relevant for current-gen modern TGDI engines almost regardless of brand. If you're building an old school SBC, it's a different topic since they're pretty much archaic.
Re: oil change. Given most of the break-in is at the assembly plant, there is no break-in oil in the engine at delivery. That said, an early 1st interval oil change is a good idea to keep the remaining break-in wear metals in low concentration. What that mileage "should" be is your discretion; I usually go for somewhere between a 1k-5k 1st interval oil change, do a Used Oil Analysis [UOA], then a slightly longer interval, UOA, and go from there.