Hey all:

I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S with the JCW package (210hp) it has 60K miles. What next? What would you do to it? Upgrade the Intake Filter? Get a 15% reduction pulley? If i find the front and rear bearings wearing out... would you replace with stock or ?



Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Oh and I forgot to add that it is my daily driver... dont want a pure track car and lose my daily driving fun.

 

I installed an Alta Intake JCW Filter within the last two weeks. The filter gives it a nice throaty intake sound, and a slight increase to supercharger whine.

My plan to get more power would be to get a header and a cam. I've come up with that based on what I've read; the exhaust compares well to other aftermarket pieces, and the pulley reduction upgrade is only marginal for us with the JCW pulley.

Other things to consider would be a short shift kit, makes a huge difference in our long throws my opinion. I'd also plan on getting some springs/struts in there (I want to avoid coilovers so I don't outclass myself should I do an autoX event).

 

What springs/struts ya getting? I think the bushings maybe showing wear. Does anyone know what to look for?

 

Struts I really haven't looked into, but I'm leaning towards H+R sport springs.

 

On my car I added Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates and the M7 Under strut system.
Those two, or other versions of them, would be a good place to start.

Then I would do the JCW Suspension, the cabrio braces and the 18.5 mm JCW rear sway bar.

A new intake filter, with the flapendectomy, would be a nice improvement.

Then you might consider some lighter weight wheels.

Hope this helps...

 

+1 keep the jcw airbox and exhaust it works perfectly fine. But go for cam, header, tune, maybe a 15% or 17% if you want to squeeze some more power out. Before before spending a bunch of money on struts or springs, do either a 19mm or 22mm sway bar and see how that helps.

 

Wow great feedback already. Cam, header, and tune... where and what? 15% pulley is what I hear is good... how about with the JCW stuff does that matter? Will try the sway bar... any thing you recommend? I see a JCW one... any diff on aftermarket?

I heard about teh flapectomy since i guess the JCW intake flap doesnt really open until 4500 RPMs. Does that affect emissions? Is it like totally loud on the lower end of the rpm range? Can you hear during normal driving?

 

Cam- I have the RMW/Newman, it makes more horsepower than stock and doesn't sacrifice low end power, lots of people are running it without any problems. I see a lot of people talking about the new Crower cam and people seem to love it. I havent seen too many dyno graphs, but it is worth reading up on.

Header-RMW makes a solid header many people are running. Mynes also makes a solid header although I think it might be a little louder than the RMW...but both make good power.

Tune-RMW or Mynes, if you cant make it to either of their headquarters( both in Irvine CA now, I believe),I know RMW has a unit you can buy and go a dyno and he will tune it live, and RMW holds tuning sessions across the country. Mynes is supposed to be releasing their unit soon.

Your JCW stuff is top notch, keep it. Go for an aftermarket sway bar though, I believe the jcw is 17mm? So go for a 19 or 22 of really any brand.
Dont just take peoples advice on what is better or not better, make sure to do your homework and find out what products will fit your needs the best.

 

I have JCW 06. I running RMW cam, custom made headers, tune and ALTA JCW filter replacement. All it works great, without any problem. Later I am going to install the meth kit and maybe oil cooler. If you have any question ask please.

 

+1
filter (ITG) and pulley (I used a 17% JCM oem style pulley cause still under warranty) I also, did a cam (RMW)too, gonna do a tune (RMW) but waiting for header install. Stock is good for rear for front I originally got used IE plates but then got soe used Spec plates cuase they have the urathane, think its better for street. Had H-Sport plates before and couldn't deal with that crash metal sound on potholes.

 

Where can you get the RMW stuff installed? Will they do it at the shop in Irvine or is there somewhere down by me (san diego) that could do it? What would be the cost of something like that? What type of hp gain is that anyway?

I appreciate the details it so helps getting through the fog of war on all this. So your setup passes Smog? CA is pretty rigid on the emissions. Is it C.A.R.B. certified i think that is what the acronym is means like it meets the California emissions board stuff or something like that.

 

What is a JCM 17%?

 

buy a porsche

 

You can try Mini Corsa, I believe they're in Irvine, for installation of RMW cams and headers.
My understanding is that Danny works closely with Jan and is familiar with his products.

Having said that any competent shop near you, with Mini experience, can do an install.

I'm just guessing the cost, for a cam install, would be around three hundred dollars and the HP gains,
and more importantly the improved drive-ability, of 10hp with RMW's street cam.

No one makes, yet, a CARB (California Air Resources Board) certified header.

If your car looks stock there's always the possibility that you can BS the smog guy
into thinking that headers are included in the JCW package.

The downside is if you fail the visual they will not do the rest of the test.

I live in California also so if I do any performance mods they will be internal or undetectable to a visual inspection.
I'm not a wrench so changing parts every other year is not an option for me.

Hope this helps...

 

Its almost impossible to look at the header while its on the car and tell its any different than stock.

 

Thanks so much for the replies. I will post pics and such of what I add in the near future.

 

You've already got a reduced pulley with the JCW package.

K&N makes a universal AF that fits in the JCW box without any mods, and best bang for the buck. #3130 I believe.

If you start poking around inside the engine, you're going to lose your daily driver "drivability."

Also, if you plan to autocross, better check and see what the rules will allow.

 

Since you already have the JCW engine components, I would focus on the suspension (assuming you do not already have the JCW suspension package). I would add shorter springs, new shocks, fixed or adjustable camber plates, good 4-wheel alignment to your specs. Then better tires and maybe even lighter wheels. Then, if you feel the handling still understeers, add an adjustable rear sway bar (19 or 20mm). Also, a lower strut brace such as the TSW X-Brace would be good.

Then you can think about brake upgrades.

For the engine, an aftermarket filter would be a good swap when you need to replace the stock paper filter (because the stock paper filter is so expensive). ITG Foam or Mini Madness "K&N" type are good choices. I also think the JCW exhaust is too quiet so I would change it just for more noise not so much for more performance. Then you can think about head and cam upgrades.

 

Great advice. What is Auto-X? Are the rules typically straight stock or ? Yeah, I am entertaining on at least replacing the filter. I believe i have the JCW suspension since i do see the front sway installed however not the rear. There are red springs in the back but i cannot tell. I know I am sort of lame without a lift LOL. I need to have the 60K done so I can decide what I need to replace/upgrade.

 

If you have red springs in the front and rear you probably have the JCW suspension. The JCW suspension is about 1/2" lower than stock with higher rate springs (stiffer) and matching shocks. The shocks should have a JCW label on them. The JCW suspension does not add or remove any sway bars. It uses the same front and rear sway bars as the sport suspension. The JCW suspension is a good setup. I would just add some camber plates to the front (fixed [adds -1.25 degrees] or adjustable [more expensive]). Then drive for awhile and decide if you still need to add an adjustable rear sway bar.

Auto-X is a timed event, usually in a parking lot, where a tight course is setup using cones. One car at a time drives the course to obtain the best time. You usually have three tries. Classes are setup based on the type of car and modifications. Most mods will bump you out of stock class. See the racing forum for more info on Auto-X.

 

Cruise by the old Jack Murphy stadium on any given sunday, take a drive around parking lot and look for the brite orange cones.

Meant to put 16 but actually round off from 15.5 "john cooper motorsport" now called MINI Motorsport Centre.

 

One thing not mentioned was an engine damper, TSW has a nice one. This was a 15 minute bolt on install and what a difference it made. Shifting became much more crisp. A short shift kit would make it better but not in 15 minutes.