Can anyone tell me what the difference is between these 3 kits?

2008 JCW brake kit upgrade

2008 JCW brake kit from the factory (is it the same as the upgrade?)

2009 JCW brake kit.

I know the 2009 JCW brake calipers are bigger than the 2008's. (more pistons? larger rotors? Not sure)

Is there any difference between the factory JCW brake kits on the 2008's and a 2008 JCW kit upgrade?

Thanks,

Mark

 

Go here and put the last seven of your VIN in to find your answers for your MINI brakes:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...31&hg=34&fg=95


Pay close attention to the different rotor sizes between the kits. There are two kits. One in the catalog (934110428914) that is only a front brake upgrade that is still the same rotor size but drilled and a TRW caliper.

The other kit is (34110432802) and is not listed in the paper catalog. This kit replaces both front and rear brakes with bigger rotors and bigger calipers. The front calipers are BREMBO aluminum 4 pot calipers.

It is about $425.00 more than the front only kit.

With the MINI 20% off coupon the (34110432802) kit comes in at $1,600.00.

I know you were talking about 2008 and 2009 but this should apply to all R56 MCS MINIS.


Also found this write up for the 34110432802 on a UK parts site:

Retrofit BREMBO 4 Pot Red Caliper JCW Sports Brake Kit.

Kit Includes:
Four-piston aluminium fixed front brake calipers finished in red with John Cooper Works logo
Perforated and grooved,vented front brake discs (316x22mm)
Red painted single piston rear calipers
Rear brake pads
Rear brake discs (280x10mm)
Front and rear brake wear sensors

The John Works Brake kit will only fit the wheel designs bellow without any modifications:
R108 MULTI SPOKE
R97 FLAME SPOKE
R104 CROWN SPOKE
R112 CROSS SPOKE CHALLENGE
R113 CROSS SPOKE

 

To add to above.

The Factory Brembo kit is fantastic and recommend it hands down!

 

there is also an added bonus for the people adding the kit versus buying a JCW with them already on it. Drilled and slotted front rotors

 

i like mine . the first time i pressed on the brake petal i think i almost lost a filling. but it is a brand new car and my old mini had 63750 miles on the brake pads and they still looked pretty new. all highway comuting.

 

While great on the street... not so good for track time. By the end of the day, all my holes and slots were filled with material.

They say blank rotors or rotors with slots are best. If the rotors tend to get too hot or too thin, the drilled holes lead to cracking.

Of course, I would never see this as a problem on the street.

Mark

 

One more note on these. If you are adding the 34110432802 kit yourself you MUST have the ECU reprogrammed to reflect The retro-fit to the full JCW Brake Kit (see link below).

It ties back into the DSC, CBC and ABS systems and how much pressure it needs to apply or release from each wheel with the new brake set-up.

http://www.motoringfile.com/wp-conte...jcw_brakes.pdf

 

Don't drilled rotors also reduce the rotor surface area by quite a bit (more so than slots)? I don't think the weight savings are worth the loss of braking performance, not to mention the cracking issue of the holes.

 

I installed the kit myself and have not had Mini reflash the computer for the kit and the brakes work great. There was another tread about paying to have this done or not. I have put 7k miles on my car on street and track and have had zero issues with ABS, stability or whatever else they are changing with a re-flash for the brake kit.

Cross drilled rotors do not reduce surface area but instead allow the hot gases that build up between the pad and rotor to excape. Think of air hockey and how the puck floats and this makes my point to the bennefit of cross drilling. Cracking does happen under EXTREME conditions, useually race cars using very hard compound track pads. When a rotor is designed to be drilled like all factory cars that have drilled rotors instead of someone taking a blank rotor and then drilling, cracks are greatly reduced.
If drilled rotors were bad then Porsche, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Mercedes, BMW, and every other high performance car would not use them.
As far as holes filling up with material, that is what a garden hose is for.
I will not own a car without drilled or sloted rotors, there is that much differance when pushing hard.

 

Do the math. Yes it reduces surface conact area for the brake pad. This can be anywhere from a 5%-15% reduction depending on how many holes there are but the pay-off is worth it in most cases. Slotted rotors only reduce surface area by about 5%. I have already spent a great deal of time researching this information.

That is why I have opted to do the full JCW upgraded rather than just upgrading the front brakes with drilled rotors that are the same diameter.

By going to the larger rotors with this kit you still have a much larger surface area and the added benefits of the slotted and drilled rotors. Cracking should not be an issue since these are factory rotors.

 

I am also planning on installing this kit myself and will use the motive power bleeder. It looks fairly easy. Is there anything I should watch out for?

 

I don't think it's a matter of whether it will work, I think it will work better.

(albeit perhaps a neglible amount)

Mark

 

BTW, I thought I read somewhere that my old R56 brakes will bolt up to an R53. Is that true?

 

i bet they could there supposed to be the old jcw brakes.

 

The retrofit is very easy if you have installed brakes before. The only thing you must do is lengthen the e-brake cable since the larger rear rotors move the caliper out an inch. The adjustment is at the handle. Just pull up the shiftboot and there is a single bolt that conects to a plate that both cables are attached to but other then that it went without an problems but then my car only had 100 miles on the factory brakes so nothing had really been heat cycled.

As far as having the re-flash done, the only place I and my shop forman could figure out would be brake force distrabution and stability control. ABS will still work as normal since it controls lockup of each wheel. I have done two weekends at road tracks with street tires on it and can say that I never felt that the car was leaving anything on the table. But it is your car and if you feel it is worth the price they will charge you then get it done. I am happy with the results and will keep that $200-250 for tires or something else.
I have heard that the brakes across the years will all bolt up except for the brake line fittings on the earlier cars where different. But that is an easy fix.
I sold my factory brakes to a guy in Canada for his R53.

 

Thanks for the great information. The dealer had my parts today so I plan on doing this on Monday.

 

your welcome and good luck. Just take your time and double check everything. Start with the rears first since they are way more of a pain then the fronts.

 

 

revisiting an old thread here....soooooo, who is making pads for the 2009 JCW at this point......Hawk HP +'s available yet??? Would part number HB444n and hb445n that are listed for the 2008 JCW work for the 2009?

 

Couple comments. It is my understanding, and in looking at them it appears that the the R56S brakes are identical to the R53 JCW brake kit (sans paint and JCW logo).

My JCW kit brakes are enroute from the UK as we speak. I opted not to go with the slotted/drilled, specifically because they were drilled. While I will not track mine often, I have seen and hear too many horror stories with the drilled rotors cracking. I am holding off until I can find a decent pair of slotted rotors.

Regarding the reflash of ECU, in theory, you should do it, but as was stated earlier, it seems a majority of folks doing the self install are not opting for it. There is a lot argument about what it actually changes in the thread "phlash" referenced. I will likely get mine reflashed at a later service date, but not at the time of install.

 

It changes how ABS, DSC, EBD and CBC are controlled. You have a lot more brake force so the ECU needs to know this.

 

for you guys out there holding out because of drilled rotors or in fear of drilled rotors in general are being over reactionary. It takes some extreme use to cause cracking in a factory drilled rotor. It also has a lot to do with how many holes are drilled, how close the holes are and the way they are drilled. I think a lot of the fear factor comes from the cheap rotor blanks that are then drilled by someone. These may have problems since the rotor was never designed from the beginning to be drilled. If you are street driving or even track days, you will not have any issues of the JCW rotors cracking. If rotor cracking was such a problem and had no benefit then every high performance car company would not use them. Think about it. Porsche has used drilled rotors in their street and track cars since the 70's. The only time you see slotted instead of drilled is in endurance racing so if anyone here plans on driving their Mini in the 24 hours of Le Mans or Daytona then stick with slotted if not then the drilled will work better then any smooth rotor.

 

I have the JCW (34110432802) sports brake retrofit installed and not sure if there is anything wrong. The brake pads at time while hard braking along a curve the pads actually have that chucking feeling onto the slot rotor. only after I release the brake and step back the chunckiness disappeared.

 

R99 wheels also fit, put them on 2 hours after I picked up my 2009 Clubman JCW. Note sig pic

 

I don't like the 09 JCW Bremos and have replaced them with a set of Wilwoods.