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What settings are needed for these to act as DRL's? Turning DRL OFF on the onboard computer or ON? I won't want my Xenons and the LED's as DRL's, just the LED's.
You will need to recode the computer module using NCS Expert. Quite straight forward, I did it for my car right away.
What settings are needed for these to act as DRL's? Turning DRL OFF on the onboard computer or ON? I won't want my Xenons and the LED's as DRL's, just the LED's.
Not sure you can do that w/o coding them....Running LED's in the upper halves of my fogs as DRL.:...but had to program that way....they come on at engine start-up I less item on the check list...only need to engage the sport button
I received my outmotoring LED DRLs today. Sadly they do not come with physical installation instructions. Does anyone have instructions for foglight module replacement? Was there a shortcut for the countryman?
They did come with one page mostly-chinese wiring instructions. I was expecting something a bit more plug and play, but these have a harness with a large control box. They recommend connecting to an interior fuse, running through the firewall. Can anyone recommend a fuse under the hood instead, that powers with accessory power?
I did some testing on the bench anyway to see what was going on.
Essentially the big box is a buck converter/dimmable constant current supply. About 6.5V is applied out to the LEDs. However, if 12V is applied to the parking lamp connection, this drops to about 5V and dims output. This essentially runs them brighter when lights are off during the day, and dims them a bit at night when the lights are on and it sees power to the parking lamp.
The yellow wire cuts LED output completely when 12V is applied. This is to be attached to the fog lamps, so they turn off the DRLs when fog lights are turn on. This is most likely for compliance that usually states at most two sets of forward lights can be powered on. MINI's rally rights do the same.
The two smaller black boxes mounted to the lights contain large 75 ohm resistors, so the car computer still thinks incandescent lamps are present and doesn't warn about a burned out light. One of these two boxes also has a relay or other sensing circuit to dim output when there is power here as mentioned before.
I'm not sure when I'll get a weekend day to install these, but hopefully sooner than later, they look freakin' great and I think will perfectly compliment the HIDs.
I don't have a Countryman, but in several post covering the other Minis. People installing fog lights have tied into the headlight wire that comes out of a fuse box under the hood. I think this is a big red wire coming out of the box, it is wrap with other wires but you can probably back trace it from a headlight.
I have a non S clubman and I just replaced the DRLS (mine did not have fogs) with a fog light that has angel eyes . It was pretty simple running the wire from the engine bay through the fire wall but I have yet to hook it up to power source under the hood. I know for sure you can just run the power to the positive post on the battery, but then the lights stay on when you turn the car off. I am thinking about a "add a fuse" and tying it to the fuse box under the hood that is controlled by the ignition switch.
I just fitted a set of these this week and they are great, Very bright.
When I turn the car on they flash for a few seconds, is this normal ?
Also the odd time i notice that the left side light takes a little longer (1-2 seconds) to turn on than the right side, Has anyone else had this problem. ?
They are both the same brightness and switch off and dim at the same time
Hi, I recently had installed a set of them on my CM, and I had a shop install them, and they did an excellent job, but the only issue I have is that, it does not turn off immediately after 30 sec? it's kind of tricky? If I just turn them on and shut them off, they will go off in 30 seconds no problem, but if I drive it a while, like more than 10 minutes, once I shut off the car, it will stay on for like about 15-20 minutes??? has anyone encounter that?? or is that something the ballast failing?? and I have try with headlight off, and DLR off and on the setting tested. but it still does the same thing??
Hi, I recently had installed a set of them on my CM, and I had a shop install them, and they did an excellent job, but the only issue I have is that, it does not turn off immediately after 30 sec? it's kind of tricky? If I just turn them on and shut them off, they will go off in 30 seconds no problem, but if I drive it a while, like more than 10 minutes, once I shut off the car, it will stay on for like about 15-20 minutes??? has anyone encounter that?? or is that something the ballast failing?? and I have try with headlight off, and DLR off and on the setting tested. but it still does the same thing??
The shop must have wired them to a fuse that stays on for a set amount of time. I cant remember which one it is but I do remember reading it somewhere on here when I was wiring up my griving lights.
I did some testing on the bench anyway to see what was going on.
Essentially the big box is a buck converter/dimmable constant current supply. About 6.5V is applied out to the LEDs. However, if 12V is applied to the parking lamp connection, this drops to about 5V and dims output. This essentially runs them brighter when lights are off during the day, and dims them a bit at night when the lights are on and it sees power to the parking lamp.
The yellow wire cuts LED output completely when 12V is applied. This is to be attached to the fog lamps, so they turn off the DRLs when fog lights are turn on. This is most likely for compliance that usually states at most two sets of forward lights can be powered on. MINI's rally rights do the same.
The two smaller black boxes mounted to the lights contain large 75 ohm resistors, so the car computer still thinks incandescent lamps are present and doesn't warn about a burned out light. One of these two boxes also has a relay or other sensing circuit to dim output when there is power here as mentioned before.
I'm not sure when I'll get a weekend day to install these, but hopefully sooner than later, they look freakin' great and I think will perfectly compliment the HIDs.
Thanks for the testing thats gonna help alot of people who are trying to wire these up. Including me when I order them.
Thanks for the testing thats gonna help alot of people who are trying to wire these up. Including me when I order them.
I wish I could report more, but they are still in my basement uninstalled. No long after someone smashed into my car so I kind of gave up on work till it gets fixed. Considering how cold it is I probably won't get around to it till the spring.
Well I posted my trials and tribulations from my install about 10 months ago and sadly they did not make it a year it appears. I have looked at the inline fuse, and fuses in the car as well, but I find none blown. I am going to plug in the stock ones this weekend to see if they work and if they do, then these were a waste of money which is sad because I really liked them when they were working but are far too expensive to buy new ones if these are toast already. Will update after I am fully sure about their demise.
can people report where they are buying their lights from and whether they had successful installs or what issues they are experiencing? It seems there is a wide gap in success so. This makes buying them off eBay especially unattractive, although, the price is much lower on eBay.
took it to a another shop, and they had figure out on Countryman, all the acc source on a delay timer, so the shop end up hook up the source to the interior source where i hook up to my radar, and now it works perfect!!! and no more flickering as well, it just turns on and off when the engine are on and off. So happy now!!!
Ok here is my fix and it's funny because after reading this thread a few times it is a hybrid of a few solutions.
Black wire- battery ground
Blue wire- white/blue headlight wire
Green wire- white/blue wire...but lights were dim and flickering at idle a bit...SO took off green wire and lights are bright and not flickering (look better anyway).
Turned OFF the DRL in the SETTINGS menu on the MINI.
Result: LED Lights come on with headlights, go off with headlights. Never wanted DRL in the first place so no lights during the daytime. LED are on with low and high beam. Fog lights still kick off when hi-beams are used.
If anyone sees a problem with this please let me know but this seems to be the only way they will work because no matter what I did, hooking straight to the battery put power to them whether the car was on or off...kinda like some 12 sockets in cars. The converter box didn't get hot or any of that so I think all is well.
ive installed mine and had same issue the lights would just stay on 24/7 unless i unhooked from battery.
my questions is how and where do i tap into wiring to make these babies work.
picutres or step for step would be helpful. please and thanks
mine doesnt have a black box on the back of the fogs . i feel these are a waste of time and a headache to install. right now i have them in the bumer and installed without the leds hooked up. so its just my fog light bulb installed and works fine like factory. cant figure out the wiring set up or where/how to tap into a power source. these are not plug and play
So I got some wiring instructions from Aaron (attached) but they are still not quite making since. They appear to have a lot more required wire harness splicing where mine look like a newer version that has nice plugs.
I think I understand mostly but still not 100%. The harness leading from the converter has 2 ends one with a white wire and one with a black and a red wire.
The black I understand has to go to the ground on the battery, but does the red also go to the battery positive, or is that optional?
The remaining white cable is meant to piggyback on the cigarette fuse?
Then I also have these amplifier looking things that don't appear to have a place. I may have received them in error???
...but had to program that way....they come on at engine start-up
I less item on the check list...only need to engage the sport button
Considering how cold it is I probably won't get around to it till the spring.
