Interior/Exterior Matching factory gauges
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Definately considering these gauges. Yours look great! I was curious though, the ones that I am seeing on the website do not read "boost" or "oil" on the actuall gauge face like yours, not sure why thats different. I was thinking about using the same two gauges that you did. Was the install difficult? Was installing the mechanical boost gauge tricky? Thanks!
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Definately considering these gauges. Yours look great! I was curious though, the ones that I am seeing on the website do not read "boost" or "oil" on the actuall gauge face like yours, not sure why thats different. I was thinking about using the same two gauges that you did. Was the install difficult? Was installing the mechanical boost gauge tricky? Thanks!
Banned
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,862
Likes: 3
From: Fresno Ca.
Where are you seeing this? "on the actuall gauge face like yours,". Are you talking about ron-s mini's picture?
Definately considering these gauges. Yours look great! I was curious though, the ones that I am seeing on the website do not read "boost" or "oil" on the actuall gauge face like yours, not sure why thats different. I was thinking about using the same two gauges that you did. Was the install difficult? Was installing the mechanical boost gauge tricky? Thanks!
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
I was talking about fingershooter's pics. Some how I ended up on this page, https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ry-gauges.html
You have to read through the thread. The pics you refer to are the first iteration of the gauges. The original author of this thread worked with Marshall to develop a set of gauge faces that look more like original equipment than other gauges. The words on the gauge face were eventually removed to keep with the "factory original" theme.
Banned
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,862
Likes: 3
From: Fresno Ca.
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,480
Likes: 0
From: Oakhurst/Fresno, CA
Steve
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 661
Likes: 24
From: Port Orchard, WA.
Removal socket & wrenches
Steve
A couple of things about the install that I'll mention just for future ref. My OEM sender was installed so that the release catch for the wire connection was underneath the body - took a mirror and a dental pick to release it. I do not believe anyone has mentioned that a 7/8 deep well socket is needed to remove the OEM sender (at least that is what I needed) and that the body of the tapless connector takes a 1' wrench. If you are doing this yourself it would not hurt to have an extra O ring on hand for the tapless connector - where it installs into the head - the O ring is a number 114 - Since I was having problems getting the ports in the tapless connector to quit leaking I had the fitting on and off a few times and it not hard to pinch the O ring if you do not make sure it is seated in the groove on the end of the connector.
A couple of things about the install that I'll mention just for future ref. My OEM sender was installed so that the release catch for the wire connection was underneath the body - took a mirror and a dental pick to release it. I do not believe anyone has mentioned that a 7/8 deep well socket is needed to remove the OEM sender (at least that is what I needed) and that the body of the tapless connector takes a 1' wrench. If you are doing this yourself it would not hurt to have an extra O ring on hand for the tapless connector - where it installs into the head - the O ring is a number 114 - Since I was having problems getting the ports in the tapless connector to quit leaking I had the fitting on and off a few times and it not hard to pinch the O ring if you do not make sure it is seated in the groove on the end of the connector.
Here is an attempt to show what I have done to date, check out my "Gallery" since I cannot figure out how to get photos into the Thread. Not complete, needs final fitting polishing and paint. The next step, which is in progress, is the wiring. More photos to come later.
Stephen
Last edited by SMOG; Jun 8, 2010 at 04:20 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 4
From: Yorktown, VA
I did alot of research about four years ago on getting factory-match gauges. The only company that sold them at the time was Greddy. I bought the air/fuel and turbo (i.e. boost) warning gauges. They are almost a spot-on match. They were initially in my old '02 MCS. I finally got around to installing them in my '06 MCS about two months ago.
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 661
Likes: 24
From: Port Orchard, WA.
This is a gauge project on which I am presently working. Maybe finished tomorrow.
S.
http://www.mini4fun.info/09_MCa_Gaug...6_Photos..html
S.
http://www.mini4fun.info/09_MCa_Gaug...6_Photos..html
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 4
From: Yorktown, VA
JIMINNI, that's what I had to work with four years ago. The current offer at the beginning of this thread would have made me reconsider my options back then. I spent countless hours searching and researching to find the GReddy warning gauges with a silver face and amber lighting. There are subtle differences with them. The one that stands out the most is there is a small amount of white light that emanates from behind the needle base. Yes, the needle sweeps are at a different angle. And the number indicators are at a different alignment. But there is no need to go out and buy more gauges when I already have some that are very satisfactory to me.
Banned
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,862
Likes: 3
From: Fresno Ca.
JIMINNI, that's what I had to work with four years ago. The current offer at the beginning of this thread would have made me reconsider my options back then. I spent countless hours searching and researching to find the GReddy warning gauges with a silver face and amber lighting. There are subtle differences with them. The one that stands out the most is there is a small amount of white light that emanates from behind the needle base. Yes, the needle sweeps are at a different angle. And the number indicators are at a different alignment. But there is no need to go out and buy more gauges when I already have some that are very satisfactory to me.
I wouldn't go out and change them either. I am now looking for a AFR gauge and obviuosly nothing is going to look OEM 
Maybe one day, I will buy the central computer unit and connect them for some datalogging. 
Neutral
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Miami Beach
Hi Guys,
I’ve had mine installed since November and am still happy with them. Funny thing happened June 21st (first day of summer) my temperature gauge went from reading ~220°f to about ~200°f. Today happens to be my one year anniversary with my MINI and had the scheduled maintenance done. I specifically asked them to check to see if the engine was running abnormally cool and the answer was that it was operating within acceptable range. My questions are:
Has anyone experienced such a drop in temperature?
Is the computer programmed to run the car cooler in summer months?
Could the gauge itself be the problem?
Is 200°f too cold?
Thanks in advance,
I’ve had mine installed since November and am still happy with them. Funny thing happened June 21st (first day of summer) my temperature gauge went from reading ~220°f to about ~200°f. Today happens to be my one year anniversary with my MINI and had the scheduled maintenance done. I specifically asked them to check to see if the engine was running abnormally cool and the answer was that it was operating within acceptable range. My questions are:
Has anyone experienced such a drop in temperature?
Is the computer programmed to run the car cooler in summer months?
Could the gauge itself be the problem?
Is 200°f too cold?
Thanks in advance,
Coordinator :: Eastern Iowa MINIs
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,520
Likes: 4
From: Decorah, IA
Hi Guys,
I’ve had mine installed since November and am still happy with them. Funny thing happened June 21st (first day of summer) my temperature gauge went from reading ~220°f to about ~200°f. Today happens to be my one year anniversary with my MINI and had the scheduled maintenance done. I specifically asked them to check to see if the engine was running abnormally cool and the answer was that it was operating within acceptable range. My questions are:
Has anyone experienced such a drop in temperature?
Is the computer programmed to run the car cooler in summer months?
Could the gauge itself be the problem?
Is 200°f too cold?
Thanks in advance,
I’ve had mine installed since November and am still happy with them. Funny thing happened June 21st (first day of summer) my temperature gauge went from reading ~220°f to about ~200°f. Today happens to be my one year anniversary with my MINI and had the scheduled maintenance done. I specifically asked them to check to see if the engine was running abnormally cool and the answer was that it was operating within acceptable range. My questions are:
Has anyone experienced such a drop in temperature?
Is the computer programmed to run the car cooler in summer months?
Could the gauge itself be the problem?
Is 200°f too cold?
Thanks in advance,
-- R53 or R56? (looks like the former from your avatar but too small to be sure)
-- Where in the cooling system is your sender installed relative to the radiator/thermostat?
Neutral
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Miami Beach
Gil,
It's an R56. I'm not sure where in the system it's installed as I didn't do the installation. It's on with a coupling sleeve I think going into the radiator. My problem is that it happened suddenly. FYI, it's stepper gauge.
Thanks,
It's an R56. I'm not sure where in the system it's installed as I didn't do the installation. It's on with a coupling sleeve I think going into the radiator. My problem is that it happened suddenly. FYI, it's stepper gauge.
Thanks,
Alliance Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 661
Likes: 24
From: Port Orchard, WA.
AA:
Mine has been running about 202 on the freeway with occasional swings (steady climb but not instant)to 225. In town I run 190 when the engine is warm. As you can see in my web link the sending unit is in the radiator hose coupling and NOT the surge tank.
S.
Mine has been running about 202 on the freeway with occasional swings (steady climb but not instant)to 225. In town I run 190 when the engine is warm. As you can see in my web link the sending unit is in the radiator hose coupling and NOT the surge tank.
S.