Interior/Exterior Interior and exterior modifications for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Interior/Exterior Matching factory gauges

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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 06:56 AM
  #576  
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From: Decorah, IA
Originally Posted by Mike S
Once again a BIG THANKS to Marty. He was a champ in sending me the diagrams and answering any questions I had. The gauges are now up and running! They look great too!
+1 on the Marty wiring kudos -- Steve should be giving him a cut.

Mike, the gauges look great. Looks like the protective plastic is still covering the face of the boost gauge, or is that just a reflection?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 07:30 PM
  #577  
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night shot

 

Last edited by Tron Chief; Jan 28, 2010 at 04:56 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 07:58 PM
  #578  
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Originally Posted by Tron Chief
night shot
Nice!

Thanks for posting pix!

C ya,
Dutch
 
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 12:49 AM
  #579  
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Originally Posted by Gil-galad
+1 on the Marty wiring kudos -- Steve should be giving him a cut.

Mike, the gauges look great. Looks like the protective plastic is still covering the face of the boost gauge, or is that just a reflection?
You're right! I forgot to remove them
 
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #580  
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HELP!!! Please...

Ok, I installed the electric oil pressure gauge and the mechanical boost gauge today. They look great, they work great, everything's great...EXCEPT, now there is a very loud and annoying buzz coming from either my tach or one of the two gauges. And the buzz continues whether the car is on/off, key in ignition or not!!

The only thing I can think that might be causing it is that I tapped the amber wire into the gray with red stripe wire that is in the tach wiring harness (just behind the tach). Everything else is normal...I took power from the cigarette lighter fuse, I found a solid ground under the dash.

Ok all you gurus, can anybody help me here?
 

Last edited by anitan1; Jan 30, 2010 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #581  
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Originally Posted by anitan1
Ok, I installed the electric oil pressure gauge and the mechanical boost gauge today. They look great, they work great, everything's great...EXCEPT, now there is a very loud and annoying buzz coming from either my tach or one of the two gauges. And the buzz continues whether the car is on/off, key in ignition or not!!

The only thing I can think that might be causing it is that I tapped the amber wire into the gray with red stripe wire that is in the tach wiring harness (just behind the tach). Everything else is normal...I took power from the cigarette lighter fuse, I found a solid ground under the dash.

Ok all you gurus, can anybody help me here?
Marshalls gauges are so sensitive that the mech boost gauge will end up fluctuating trying to keep up with the minor pressure changes. Putting a small piece of cotton ball into the air tube behind the gauge assuming that you did not use the "T" fitting in the install as I did not use it in my install. Hope that helps.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #582  
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Originally Posted by Tron Chief
Marshalls gauges are so sensitive that the mech boost gauge will end up fluctuating trying to keep up with the minor pressure changes. Putting a small piece of cotton ball into the air tube behind the gauge assuming that you did not use the "T" fitting in the install as I did not use it in my install. Hope that helps.
But will it do that even if the car is off and the key is out of the ignition? Oh and I did use the T fitting, which seems to have a filter installed in it.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #583  
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If you disconnect the orange wire does it continue?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 04:13 AM
  #584  
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I haven't tried that yet, because where I out the orange wire it's very difficult to get to. When I disconnect 12V power it stops. I'll try disconnect the orange wire today and let you know. I wonder if I'm putting some kind of feedback into the tach from the orange wire?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 07:04 AM
  #585  
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Originally Posted by anitan1
I haven't tried that yet, because where I out the orange wire it's very difficult to get to. When I disconnect 12V power it stops. I'll try disconnect the orange wire today and let you know. I wonder if I'm putting some kind of feedback into the tach from the orange wire?
Are you able to dim your gauges as you have them wired up?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #586  
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So here's a question for anyone running both oil pressure and oil temp gauges. What is the best way to install both sensors? Are both sensors needed? It's too bad the other terminal on the oil pressure sending unit wasn’t oil temp. Thanks!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 09:21 AM
  #587  
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Originally Posted by KurTecH
So here's a question for anyone running both oil pressure and oil temp gauges. What is the best way to install both sensors? Are both sensors needed? It's too bad the other terminal on the oil pressure sending unit wasn’t oil temp. Thanks!
I plan on installing both oil temperature and pressure gauges. It's my understanding that the best way to install both gauges is the following: for the oil pressure gauge you should use the tapless adapter which is available from CravenSpeed or for Gen2, use this one. It will allow you to retain the factory idiot light connection. For the oil temperature gauge you will need an adapter like this to go into the oil pan.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 09:46 AM
  #588  
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Originally Posted by Themajickman
For the oil temperature gauge you will need an adapter like this to go into the oil pan.
Perfect! I already have the oil pressure sending unit installed with the tapless adapter. I will be getting the oil plug adapter very soon.
 

Last edited by KurTecH; Feb 1, 2010 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #589  
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I wonder if they can do an Air/Fuel ratio gauge for the mini?
The gauges on this site look exactly like marshall gauges and the Air/Fuel ratio gauge looks like it has the same original needle that the un-mini'd marshall ones have.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/p...s/g2_gauge.php
 
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #590  
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I thought I would share a little mod that I did to my Craven Dual Pods to accommodate the momentary switch used to set the electric gauges.

For those who may not be familiar with them, the electric stepper gauges come with a small red button switch that is used to set Hi/Lo alerts and also allows you recall your maximum amount. If, say, you want the gauge to alert you when the temperature exceeds 300 degrees, you can set the gauge to alert you (by flashing the backlighting) when that temp is exceeded.

The gauges also come with a 12V output that turns on when there is an alert in case you want to add a supplemental warning light (or sound).

After hearing about someone modding their DualPod to add the switch, I decided to do the same thing and also add a warning LED. I decided to add the additional LED because I'm not certain I would notice the backlight flashing during the daytime in bright sun.

First, I found a nice little red mountable LED from Radio Shack that already has the appropriate resistor built in to run off of 12V.



I then drilled three holes into the DualPod to accommodate two switches and the LED. (The switches uses a 9/32" hole, the LED 13/64")


I also drilled a small hole between each gauge cup and the center section to run the wires out of sight between the gauge cup and the switches.



I wired the LED so that it will light up if either gauge's warning goes off. I could have done two LEDs, but I liked the symmetry of this layout and I figured I just needed it to get my attention.

Here's what the LED looks like installed.



Here it is with the switches installed.



And finally, testing out the LED. FYI - I have rotated the gauges in their cups so that the "normal" status has both gauge indicators pointing at each other. It's more visible to to me through the steering wheel and I can easily tell which gauge is out of norm with just a quick glance.




The LED is pretty directional, so it will catch your attention when it's right in front of you.



I also added the switch and an LED to my other DualPod that holds my Oil Pressure and Boost Gauge. Since only the Oil Pressure is an electric stepper gauge there is only one switch on that side.

I'll post some pictures once they are back in the car.

Cheers,
Tom
 
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 04:57 PM
  #591  
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Really nice work, and a superb way to take advantage of the extra features offered by the stepper gauges. My approach -- hiding the button switches in the back of the gauge cups -- seems rather lame now by comparison.

Thanks for sharing!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 06:48 PM
  #592  
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From: Oakhurst/Fresno, CA
Originally Posted by tcowden
I thought I would share a little mod that I did to my Craven Dual Pods to accommodate the momentary switch used to set the electric gauges.

For those who may not be familiar with them, the electric stepper gauges come with a small red button switch that is used to set Hi/Lo alerts and also allows you recall your maximum amount. If, say, you want the gauge to alert you when the temperature exceeds 300 degrees, you can set the gauge to alert you (by flashing the backlighting) when that temp is exceeded.

The gauges also come with a 12V output that turns on when there is an alert in case you want to add a supplemental warning light (or sound).

After hearing about someone modding their DualPod to add the switch, I decided to do the same thing and also add a warning LED. I decided to add the additional LED because I'm not certain I would notice the backlight flashing during the daytime in bright sun.

First, I found a nice little red mountable LED from Radio Shack that already has the appropriate resistor built in to run off of 12V.



I then drilled three holes into the DualPod to accommodate two switches and the LED. (The switches uses a 9/32" hole, the LED 13/64")


I also drilled a small hole between each gauge cup and the center section to run the wires out of sight between the gauge cup and the switches.



I wired the LED so that it will light up if either gauge's warning goes off. I could have done two LEDs, but I liked the symmetry of this layout and I figured I just needed it to get my attention.

Here's what the LED looks like installed.



Here it is with the switches installed.



And finally, testing out the LED. FYI - I have rotated the gauges in their cups so that the "normal" status has both gauge indicators pointing at each other. It's more visible to to me through the steering wheel and I can easily tell which gauge is out of norm with just a quick glance.




The LED is pretty directional, so it will catch your attention when it's right in front of you.



I also added the switch and an LED to my other DualPod that holds my Oil Pressure and Boost Gauge. Since only the Oil Pressure is an electric stepper gauge there is only one switch on that side.

I'll post some pictures once they are back in the car.

Cheers,
Tom
Very, very nice! I'm glad to see your setup. Thanks for posting.

Steve
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 04:35 AM
  #593  
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Seems like a great setup for those with the stepper gauges. Wasn't there something posted that the dual gauge pods are no longer being produced and limited to stock already produced?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 06:22 AM
  #594  
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Originally Posted by Tron Chief
Seems like a great setup for those with the stepper gauges. Wasn't there something posted that the dual gauge pods are no longer being produced and limited to stock already produced?
Fortunately, I still have plenty. I have the new dimmer circuit for the stepper gauges in stock and they work great! This is the circuit that works with the MINI's dimmer so you don't have to dim the gauges separately. They are $45.

Steve
 
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 07:09 AM
  #595  
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Originally Posted by tcowden
I thought I would share a little mod that I did to my Craven Dual Pods to accommodate the momentary switch used to set the electric gauges.

For those who may not be familiar with them, the electric stepper gauges come with a small red button switch that is used to set Hi/Lo alerts and also allows you recall your maximum amount. If, say, you want the gauge to alert you when the temperature exceeds 300 degrees, you can set the gauge to alert you (by flashing the backlighting) when that temp is exceeded.

The gauges also come with a 12V output that turns on when there is an alert in case you want to add a supplemental warning light (or sound).

After hearing about someone modding their DualPod to add the switch, I decided to do the same thing and also add a warning LED. I decided to add the additional LED because I'm not certain I would notice the backlight flashing during the daytime in bright sun.

First, I found a nice little red mountable LED from Radio Shack that already has the appropriate resistor built in to run off of 12V.



I then drilled three holes into the DualPod to accommodate two switches and the LED. (The switches uses a 9/32" hole, the LED 13/64")


I also drilled a small hole between each gauge cup and the center section to run the wires out of sight between the gauge cup and the switches.



I wired the LED so that it will light up if either gauge's warning goes off. I could have done two LEDs, but I liked the symmetry of this layout and I figured I just needed it to get my attention.

Here's what the LED looks like installed.



Here it is with the switches installed.



And finally, testing out the LED. FYI - I have rotated the gauges in their cups so that the "normal" status has both gauge indicators pointing at each other. It's more visible to to me through the steering wheel and I can easily tell which gauge is out of norm with just a quick glance.




The LED is pretty directional, so it will catch your attention when it's right in front of you.



I also added the switch and an LED to my other DualPod that holds my Oil Pressure and Boost Gauge. Since only the Oil Pressure is an electric stepper gauge there is only one switch on that side.

I'll post some pictures once they are back in the car.

Cheers,
Tom
Great stuff !

We used to run our race car's guages so that normal op positon was at the 12 o'clock....but I really like your idea better.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:09 AM
  #596  
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Originally Posted by Themajickman
I plan on installing both oil temperature and pressure gauges. It's my understanding that the best way to install both gauges is the following: for the oil pressure gauge you should use the tapless adapter which is available from CravenSpeed or for Gen2, use this one. It will allow you to retain the factory idiot light connection. For the oil temperature gauge you will need an adapter like this to go into the oil pan.
FWIW - I did exactly the same thing on my R53 but found that the oil temp sender that Marshall uses is too short to actually get into the (oil mass) in the sump when using that adapter. The tip of the sender/probe only extends about 1/8" beyond that adapter and when installed in the drain plug bung it touches the hot oil, but the temp is inaccurate because the small volume of oil around the probe is surrounded by a large mass of aluminum in the recesses of the bung. So oil temp will likely be displayed lower than it actually is. Conversely, after a hard AX session or a 20-25 min session on the track the aluminum oil pan can absorb and retain a lot of heat and potentially "heat soak" the probe reading.

Steve and I have had an ongoing discussion with Marshall trying to resolve the inaccuracy. In my research I did find a better solution for using the drain plug bung in a different adapter (#114850) here which should get the sender/probe deeper into the oil and beyond the bung if the hex head top of the sender will fit down into the adapter but still allow it to be tightened.

But after talking it over with a local shop that builds race-prepped cars, and before the adapter arrived, I decided to move the temp sender/probe into the oil flow where the temp should be more accurate. There is only one place I can find to do this without adding an oil cooler like the one that MINI Madness sells with built-in ports for pressure and temp senders in the adapter plate. So I have a spare/new oil filter cap on order, and another temp sender. We're going to drill and tap the center (top) of the cap and install the sender there. The probe will extend down in the oil flow in the middle of the filter and should present a more accurate reading of the actual temp of the flowing oil. Hopefully I'll have this done in a week or so.

I stick with good oil (Amsoil XL) and change it often because of what I "think" the oil temps are hitting. The ambient temp here in Texas summers could help push the operating temp of the oil above the recommended range - even for Amsoil. I'm anxious to see what the real temps are during AX and during DEs. I suspect that the temps are high enough when really flogging the car to warrant an upgraded oil cooler, but we'll see.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #597  
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My first guess at a best location would be the sump, but close to as opposed to at the drain plug. Of course the complication here would be removal of the pan and then bung welding, etc.

At the filter housing is definitely in the flow and sounds like a much easier compromise.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #598  
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If you could purchase the adapter plate only from MNI Madness and then simply plug the line holes it would be alot nicer than having to mess with the sender each time you need to replace the oil filter.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 08:04 AM
  #599  
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Originally Posted by Performance Angst
If you could purchase the adapter plate only from MNI Madness and then simply plug the line holes it would be alot nicer than having to mess with the sender each time you need to replace the oil filter.
Unfortunately, the adapter is about $246 alone and would require the removal of the stock oil cooler. Better to just buy the whole kit if you went that way.

Steve
 
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 11:21 AM
  #600  
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Also, if you plug the holes then you have cut off the flow. So, the press sensor would still work fine, but the temp sensor would not be very accurate.
 
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