Interior/Exterior Ok need someone w/ decal skills
ok well the guy at Downtown Mini messed up my forst set of decals (the ones sent incorrectly) so I will have my mind made up to have the original ones I intended (there is another thread for that discussion). I need someone skilled in applying the decals so that I can get the new one sorted out when it arrives.
thanks, I'm off to get my Mini!!!
thanks, I'm off to get my Mini!!!
>>ok well the guy at Downtown Mini messed up my forst set of decals (the ones sent incorrectly) so I will have my mind made up to have the original ones I intended (there is another thread for that discussion). I need someone skilled in applying the decals so that I can get the new one sorted out when it arrives.
>>
>>thanks, I'm off to get my Mini!!!
Maybe ask our MCO sponsor Cooperflags if there is anyone recommended for installation in your area.
Good luck. Safe journey!
>>
>>thanks, I'm off to get my Mini!!!
Maybe ask our MCO sponsor Cooperflags if there is anyone recommended for installation in your area.
Good luck. Safe journey!
do 'em yourself!
work in a cool and shaded place. get the area really clean & free of wax. lay them on the way you like, and then make guidelines from masking tape. put a little baby shampoo (not the conditioner kind) in your water bottle. soak the crap out of the car. also soak the decal well as the backing is removed. note: do not get the backing wet until you are ready to apply! wet backing, allowed to dry on the decal, will forever remain on the decal. spray the car again. the decal should now slide right inbetween your guidelines. spray the decal topside now (for lubrication). start working in the middle & gently push the water out. pay attention to your guidelines & correct as necessary. don't worry if you need to pull it up & reposition at this point. just keep it really wet, and and all should be well. work your way out to the edges, applying more water frequently. i like to wrap some paper towels around my plastic squeegee to avoid scratching anything. once you've done the whole thing lightly, spray it again and carefully repeat the process, a little more firmly this time. at this point, most all of the bubbles should be out. it's probably a good idea to carefully remove the masking tape now, as some cheaper brands may leave a little glue (easily removed later w/ wd-40) behind. let the decals dry for an hour or two. any remaining bubbles can be quickly dispatched with the point of a razor knife (the tiny hole will not show). any trimming should be done with the same knife. always use a new, sharp blade! resist the temptation to wash the car for a day or so.
various and sundry stream-of-consciousness handy tips:
if your decal has to cross a break in the body, it's much easier to cut it on either side of the break than it is to try and wrap it around the edges. if you must cut around an emblem or badge, a straight line almost always turns out nicer than a curve. i you really must cut a curve, let the decal dry a little first. you can get special narrow, easily removable guide tape from an automotive paint supply store. once the decal is fairly well set, apply the guide tape in the shape you wish to cut. it should come off quite easily for repositioning, if needed. use a sharp knife and let the blade do all the work. use care, and you won't leave any marks on the paint.
that's really all there is to it .
just remember - (1): always use a sharp blade. i use an olfa knife with stainless break-away blades. (2): there is no such thing as too much water! keep everything wet. if you accidentally drop a thoroughly wet decal on the ground, you can spray the dirt right off. water is your friend.
peace - bodinski
work in a cool and shaded place. get the area really clean & free of wax. lay them on the way you like, and then make guidelines from masking tape. put a little baby shampoo (not the conditioner kind) in your water bottle. soak the crap out of the car. also soak the decal well as the backing is removed. note: do not get the backing wet until you are ready to apply! wet backing, allowed to dry on the decal, will forever remain on the decal. spray the car again. the decal should now slide right inbetween your guidelines. spray the decal topside now (for lubrication). start working in the middle & gently push the water out. pay attention to your guidelines & correct as necessary. don't worry if you need to pull it up & reposition at this point. just keep it really wet, and and all should be well. work your way out to the edges, applying more water frequently. i like to wrap some paper towels around my plastic squeegee to avoid scratching anything. once you've done the whole thing lightly, spray it again and carefully repeat the process, a little more firmly this time. at this point, most all of the bubbles should be out. it's probably a good idea to carefully remove the masking tape now, as some cheaper brands may leave a little glue (easily removed later w/ wd-40) behind. let the decals dry for an hour or two. any remaining bubbles can be quickly dispatched with the point of a razor knife (the tiny hole will not show). any trimming should be done with the same knife. always use a new, sharp blade! resist the temptation to wash the car for a day or so.
various and sundry stream-of-consciousness handy tips:
if your decal has to cross a break in the body, it's much easier to cut it on either side of the break than it is to try and wrap it around the edges. if you must cut around an emblem or badge, a straight line almost always turns out nicer than a curve. i you really must cut a curve, let the decal dry a little first. you can get special narrow, easily removable guide tape from an automotive paint supply store. once the decal is fairly well set, apply the guide tape in the shape you wish to cut. it should come off quite easily for repositioning, if needed. use a sharp knife and let the blade do all the work. use care, and you won't leave any marks on the paint.
that's really all there is to it .
just remember - (1): always use a sharp blade. i use an olfa knife with stainless break-away blades. (2): there is no such thing as too much water! keep everything wet. if you accidentally drop a thoroughly wet decal on the ground, you can spray the dirt right off. water is your friend.
peace - bodinski
Excellent advice from bodinski - do them yourself. The key is to liberally apply a wetting agent. I used windex to apply my roof flag with complete success but have used soapy water in the past. Go to it - and send pix!
>>do 'em yourself!
>> any remaining bubbles can be quickly dispatched with the point of a razor knife (the tiny hole will not show). >>
A better method is find a diabetic or junkie and get a very light gauge syringe and needle. You can literally collapse the bubbles by sucking out the air with the syringe and you7 will never see the tiny hole. Works much better than the knife
>> any remaining bubbles can be quickly dispatched with the point of a razor knife (the tiny hole will not show). >>
A better method is find a diabetic or junkie and get a very light gauge syringe and needle. You can literally collapse the bubbles by sucking out the air with the syringe and you7 will never see the tiny hole. Works much better than the knife
You too can do this. Just take your time and use lots of lubricant, plus the blue 3M squeegee that comes with the stripes. I used 1 tbl of Dawn with a quart of water. And make sure the car and working areas are claen and well lighted. Check out the results! Not bad for a graphics virgin.

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I am not handy or crafty. I could see myself doing something to ruin a stripe and having to buy another set. however, I can write a check!
So I'd look in the Yellow Pages, or ask around, and get the name of a good detail / body shoppe. Call and discuss it with them and then let the professionals do it!
So I'd look in the Yellow Pages, or ask around, and get the name of a good detail / body shoppe. Call and discuss it with them and then let the professionals do it!
I have the center 3 stripe from cooper flags and I paid a 20 veteran body man who applies decals for a local dealer and a couple of NASCAR teams to do the application. Actually he didn't charge me they turned out so bad. The entire stripe blistered with little bubbles. Luckly after about 2 months the bubbles are gone. Be careful those things apparently don't go on too easy. If you do get tiny bubbles leave the car in the hot sun for a few weeks and the bubbles will sometimes dissapear.
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