Interior/Exterior Show us your rally lights!
so for the hella 500 or 1000 people have on here with the included wiring can you bypass the high beams altogether? I was thinking about getting the black magic ones but I don't want to tap into the wiring I would rather it to be just fully controlled by a switch either on or off. I don't want to have to even have my headlights on.
Yes, you just need a constant 12v source ready to power on the relay. I used a "Tap a Circuit" in the fuse box.
I actually used a three way switch and have either option. On with the headlights, or full manual control even with the car turned off (be careful with this the the daylight
)
I actually used a three way switch and have either option. On with the headlights, or full manual control even with the car turned off (be careful with this the the daylight
)
Yes, you just need a constant 12v source ready to power on the relay. I used a "Tap a Circuit" in the fuse box.
I actually used a three way switch and have either option. On with the headlights, or full manual control even with the car turned off (be careful with this the the daylight
)
I actually used a three way switch and have either option. On with the headlights, or full manual control even with the car turned off (be careful with this the the daylight
)Ill be carefull, only using the lights if I really need them on
One of a kind
Attachment 52645
Attachment 52646
Attachment 52647
Installed Bosch driving and fog lamps. Independently switched and relayed.
Made the brackets myself out of brass. Found a way to use the two holes the dealer made for the license plate holder
.
Attachment 52646
Attachment 52647
Installed Bosch driving and fog lamps. Independently switched and relayed.
Made the brackets myself out of brass. Found a way to use the two holes the dealer made for the license plate holder
.
Thanks KPH, I'm sorry I don't have any photos of the mounting brackets I made, but I could give some details.
On the lower grill location, that area is basically solid plastic behind the honeycomb. The mount is about 2 1/2" long and about 1 1/8" wide. I formed it around a piece of wood that I cut to a couple of compound angles to get the lamps to sit right. I have a strap of brass behind the grill for reinforcement. They are very steady.
I'll try and take some additional pic's maybe this week or next.
I'm waiting for a FMIC so I can take the bumper off again.
I suppose once I post pic's, there goes my million dollar idea
.
On the lower grill location, that area is basically solid plastic behind the honeycomb. The mount is about 2 1/2" long and about 1 1/8" wide. I formed it around a piece of wood that I cut to a couple of compound angles to get the lamps to sit right. I have a strap of brass behind the grill for reinforcement. They are very steady.
I'll try and take some additional pic's maybe this week or next.
I'm waiting for a FMIC so I can take the bumper off again.
I suppose once I post pic's, there goes my million dollar idea
.
Thanks KPH, I'm sorry I don't have any photos of the mounting brackets I made, but I could give some details.
On the lower grill location, that area is basically solid plastic behind the honeycomb. The mount is about 2 1/2" long and about 1 1/8" wide. I formed it around a piece of wood that I cut to a couple of compound angles to get the lamps to sit right. I have a strap of brass behind the grill for reinforcement. They are very steady.
I'll try and take some additional pic's maybe this week or next.
I'm waiting for a FMIC so I can take the bumper off again.
I suppose once I post pic's, there goes my million dollar idea :lol: .
On the lower grill location, that area is basically solid plastic behind the honeycomb. The mount is about 2 1/2" long and about 1 1/8" wide. I formed it around a piece of wood that I cut to a couple of compound angles to get the lamps to sit right. I have a strap of brass behind the grill for reinforcement. They are very steady.
I'll try and take some additional pic's maybe this week or next.
I'm waiting for a FMIC so I can take the bumper off again.
I suppose once I post pic's, there goes my million dollar idea :lol: .
I have 4x 100W Hella (2x500 and 2xFF500) and there's been no problem with lights dimming. Each pair is running off a separate relay, using the Hella wiring with a piggy-back plug off the H4 connector to the headlight globe. (FYI the VIP Custom Parts bracket is great too)
No cooling issues either, although it's yet to go through a summer. Sits around 230F around town, has been up to 240F. In the countryside, the faster I go the cooler the engine gets, so that's OK.
No cooling issues either, although it's yet to go through a summer. Sits around 230F around town, has been up to 240F. In the countryside, the faster I go the cooler the engine gets, so that's OK.
I honestly have not looked at it I just wouldn't want to block it as I live in Houston, I need all the air I can get. I really like the lights mounted in front of the space between the intercooler and top grill both from a practical and appearance perspective. I think I want 4 lights but we will see. Thanks for everyone who posted pictures up, they look great.
Sean
Sean
I was running both the Hella Fogs & Driving lights during the MINI parade at MINIs in the Ozarks when the driving lights went out all of a sudden. The bulbs were good so I wasn't sure what the deal was and waited until I got home to look everything over.
It turns out that the main fuse near the battery had melted the fuse holder enough that a coat of plastic was covering the fuse contact. Both the fog and driving light fuse holders were dark from heat! Yikes!
I had a questionable ground so I improved that and replaced the crappy OEM fuse holder with some nice heavy duty 30A rated waterproof blade fuse holders. Only $3 each at radioshack. I ran the light for awhile after the replacement and the fuse and wire are now nice and cool.
It turns out that the main fuse near the battery had melted the fuse holder enough that a coat of plastic was covering the fuse contact. Both the fog and driving light fuse holders were dark from heat! Yikes!
I had a questionable ground so I improved that and replaced the crappy OEM fuse holder with some nice heavy duty 30A rated waterproof blade fuse holders. Only $3 each at radioshack. I ran the light for awhile after the replacement and the fuse and wire are now nice and cool.







