How To Interior/Exterior :: Replacing Speedo and Tach Gauge Faces With Pics!
#151
It's true that the graphic isn't a full "circle" like the OEM gauge face - the Outmotoring face is more of a cut-out shape. The SLIGHT (and I do mean slight) reduction in "glow area" is well worth it for the cleaner-look, IMHO, and I very much doubt that you'd miss an idiot light when you needed to see it, I really do.
Some of the lights are actually BETTER with the replacement faces in my experience - for example, I saw a LOT of my traction-control warning light this winter, and the shape of the warning light was MUCH easier pon the eyes, particularly at night, than the big, glowing circle blinking on and off every time my wheels slipped a bit on snow or ice. Might be a preference thing, but MY preference is definitely the cleaner look and the more elegant, "window style" warning shapes.
But, if it worries you, swapping them back is just as easy as the initial installation, and you should be able to re-sell the gauges for only a small loss to someone else - just save the 3M sticky tape backing material so the gauges won't stick to the packaging when you re-ship them. Using the 3M tape really helps with light leaks (the stock gauges were sprayed with a mild adhesive at the factory to seal the light behind the gauges).
OR, if you're new to the replacement gauges and you're less than 100% sure of the idiot light visibility, install them WITHOUT peeling off the sticky tape backing and run with them for a few weeks. if you end up liking them, crack open the gauge and stick them down more permanently.
#152
#153
Hmmm, I didn't get tape with mine, and the instructions made no mention of tape? I smeared a little Elmer's glue around the edge and then wiped it off. Just enough tack to hold them in place. So far so good. But I'm a little cranky now that I know.
#154
idiot light visability update:
I have black Outmotoring faceplates and today I did a little test to see whether the idiot lights adequately visable during daylight hours. Answer?
Yes! You can clearly seem them, even on a bright day. What you can't see easily on a sunny day is the blue high beam indicator light, in the tach, and the green cruise control indicator light, also located in the tach--but who cares about either of those? Not me.
I have black Outmotoring faceplates and today I did a little test to see whether the idiot lights adequately visable during daylight hours. Answer?
Yes! You can clearly seem them, even on a bright day. What you can't see easily on a sunny day is the blue high beam indicator light, in the tach, and the green cruise control indicator light, also located in the tach--but who cares about either of those? Not me.
#156
hi, i am stuck so in need of some help..
i read the guide about the speedo face change.
i myself need to remove the center dash trim in order to paint the speedo ring, but i got stuck as althought i unclipped all the dash pieces (3 clips on driver side, 2 on the center and 3 on the passenger), i can't pull them off.
they are held very tight on the dash and i am afraid that if i pull any harder i may break something.
is there a trick or something i should know?
i read the guide about the speedo face change.
i myself need to remove the center dash trim in order to paint the speedo ring, but i got stuck as althought i unclipped all the dash pieces (3 clips on driver side, 2 on the center and 3 on the passenger), i can't pull them off.
they are held very tight on the dash and i am afraid that if i pull any harder i may break something.
is there a trick or something i should know?
#158
thanks for the reply but i managed to get them off yesterday.
there are no screws other than the two in the center dash trim. the problem was that there where cloth clips also on the top of the dash trim other than the ones in the bottom
#160
I'd Like some red hints in the black\grey union jack
And a solution for the chrono package
If someone as a template or...
#161
Aaron, i have an rf3 mcs jcw from canada. It's in kph, i live in the states and was wondering of I bought a mph faceplste, would the needle woulda match the speeds. From my understanding they will.
also. Do your faceplate gauges all say outmotoring below the Digital read out or is that only for the demo model? thanx
also. Do your faceplate gauges all say outmotoring below the Digital read out or is that only for the demo model? thanx
#162
Aaron, i have an rf3 mcs jcw from canada. It's in kph, i live in the states and was wondering of I bought a mph faceplste, would the needle woulda match the speeds. From my understanding they will.
also. Do your faceplate gauges all say outmotoring below the Digital read out or is that only for the demo model? thanx
also. Do your faceplate gauges all say outmotoring below the Digital read out or is that only for the demo model? thanx
Yeah they should fit fine as long as you mark carefuly the position of the needle and place it exactly at the same place where closing up after the surgery. The analog speedo (Tach) doesnt know mph from kph he just rotate his "heart" accordingly to signal he receives which translates by the "Arm", needle pointing the right thing you could actualy run Nautic miles and thach could still be acurate IF the faceplate was gradated the right way.
So if the outmotoring faceplate his well gradated (wich should be) and as long as the needle is put back exactly where it was taken of you should good.
There where no difference in speedo gradation between U.S and CAN as far as I could find out.
As for the Outmotoring mention I couldnt find any pics where it was shown, at least for R53....
#163
#164
sry if I missed the answer in the thread.
thanks.
#165
#166
Hold up there - one issue isn't their fault. The other can easily be fixed.
The hash-marks on top not lighting up are because of the white facia under the face. On Canadian and UK models, the blue High-Beam indicator is there. Since on US models, there's nothing there to light up (it's between the 70 and 80 MPH marks) they used the same facia for all markets. There's a small cutout to block dash lighting from lighting up the high-beam symbol. Unfortunately, short of chanign the hash marks, there's no way to change that without taking out the little seperator. (Also possible. I'd prefer that over OM modifying the hash marks!)
The light leaking around the indicator lights at the bottom - on the stock OEM faces, there is a sticky glue-like substance. This holds the facia tight against the white facia, to prevent light from leaking like that. Obviously, OM's faces did not have this, so it isn't sitting tight against the white facia and light is leaking around. An easy fix? Get double-sided tape (not the thick fuzzy stuff!) and run it along the back of your facia before putting it on. When you put it on, press it down to the tape holds the facia against it.
Personally, I LOVE the design!! I'd already have ordered my set, if it weren't for the logo. Sorry, OM, the logo is what's making me iffy. :/
Also, 03Indigo has a point - the bottom of the facia will need to be cut (another reason to have the double-side sticky tape, it'll then hold down the facia since the tabs won't be there any more) to allow light for the bottom needles. (The main Speed and RPM needls don't need it, since the light for those comes up through the center hole in the facia.
The hash-marks on top not lighting up are because of the white facia under the face. On Canadian and UK models, the blue High-Beam indicator is there. Since on US models, there's nothing there to light up (it's between the 70 and 80 MPH marks) they used the same facia for all markets. There's a small cutout to block dash lighting from lighting up the high-beam symbol. Unfortunately, short of chanign the hash marks, there's no way to change that without taking out the little seperator. (Also possible. I'd prefer that over OM modifying the hash marks!)
The light leaking around the indicator lights at the bottom - on the stock OEM faces, there is a sticky glue-like substance. This holds the facia tight against the white facia, to prevent light from leaking like that. Obviously, OM's faces did not have this, so it isn't sitting tight against the white facia and light is leaking around. An easy fix? Get double-sided tape (not the thick fuzzy stuff!) and run it along the back of your facia before putting it on. When you put it on, press it down to the tape holds the facia against it.
Personally, I LOVE the design!! I'd already have ordered my set, if it weren't for the logo. Sorry, OM, the logo is what's making me iffy. :/
Also, 03Indigo has a point - the bottom of the facia will need to be cut (another reason to have the double-side sticky tape, it'll then hold down the facia since the tabs won't be there any more) to allow light for the bottom needles. (The main Speed and RPM needls don't need it, since the light for those comes up through the center hole in the facia.
Sorry not Aaron but maybe I can help
Yeah they should fit fine as long as you mark carefuly the position of the needle and place it exactly at the same place where closing up after the surgery. The analog speedo (Tach) doesnt know mph from kph he just rotate his "heart" accordingly to signal he receives which translates by the "Arm", needle pointing the right thing you could actualy run Nautic miles and thach could still be acurate IF the faceplate was gradated the right way.
So if the outmotoring faceplate his well gradated (wich should be) and as long as the needle is put back exactly where it was taken of you should good.
There where no difference in speedo gradation between U.S and CAN as far as I could find out.
As for the Outmotoring mention I couldnt find any pics where it was shown, at least for R53....
Yeah they should fit fine as long as you mark carefuly the position of the needle and place it exactly at the same place where closing up after the surgery. The analog speedo (Tach) doesnt know mph from kph he just rotate his "heart" accordingly to signal he receives which translates by the "Arm", needle pointing the right thing you could actualy run Nautic miles and thach could still be acurate IF the faceplate was gradated the right way.
So if the outmotoring faceplate his well gradated (wich should be) and as long as the needle is put back exactly where it was taken of you should good.
There where no difference in speedo gradation between U.S and CAN as far as I could find out.
As for the Outmotoring mention I couldnt find any pics where it was shown, at least for R53....
#167
I Believe that that OM has updated their design with gen2 of the gauge faces (As well as not saying outmotoring) If what I could gather is true then...
YES the high beam Light indicator just above the 120kph mark should still be visible as you can see if you look at the enlarge picture in this thread
http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/proddeta...eFaces&cat=108
the high beam indicator his slightly translucent (as are the other ones)
the web site his U.K. but the pic is for the MPH one
BTW I dont think that you get much difference between the Canadian and US package apart from KPH and MPH, I know that here in Canada we have heated windshield washer nozzle and mirrors but apart from that.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Chris
#169
Ok so I just get your facts straight, your car his a R53 JCW with the Canadian package?
I Believe that that OM has updated their design with gen2 of the gauge faces (As well as not saying outmotoring) If what I could gather is true then...
YES the high beam Light indicator just above the 120kph mark should still be visible as you can see if you look at the enlarge picture in this thread
http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/proddeta...eFaces&cat=108
the high beam indicator his slightly translucent (as are the other ones)
the web site his U.K. but the pic is for the MPH one
BTW I dont think that you get much difference between the Canadian and US package apart from KPH and MPH, I know that here in Canada we have heated windshield washer nozzle and mirrors but apart from that.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Chris
I Believe that that OM has updated their design with gen2 of the gauge faces (As well as not saying outmotoring) If what I could gather is true then...
YES the high beam Light indicator just above the 120kph mark should still be visible as you can see if you look at the enlarge picture in this thread
http://www.lohen.co.uk/shop/proddeta...eFaces&cat=108
the high beam indicator his slightly translucent (as are the other ones)
the web site his U.K. but the pic is for the MPH one
BTW I dont think that you get much difference between the Canadian and US package apart from KPH and MPH, I know that here in Canada we have heated windshield washer nozzle and mirrors but apart from that.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Chris
~Bryant
#170
It's been no problem at all, glad if I was of any help to you.
After all I think that why theres a forum in the first place exchange knowlege and help so..
BTW post a feedback of your install when you do it and a post a pic to if you can It will confirm everything about that faceplate, that would be great if someone else stumbles onto this thread in the future
Chris
#171
Sorry if I came across a bit like a pr i ck about the facts thing At first I was not to sure about the rF3 thing I tought It coudlve been a special JCW issue or something so I searched about it and couldnt find info. So I just wanted to be sure about it being R53.
It's been no problem at all, glad if I was of any help to you.
After all I think that why theres a forum in the first place exchange knowlege and help so..
BTW post a feedback of your install when you do it and a post a pic to if you can It will confirm everything about that faceplate, that would be great if someone else stumbles onto this thread in the future
Chris
It's been no problem at all, glad if I was of any help to you.
After all I think that why theres a forum in the first place exchange knowlege and help so..
BTW post a feedback of your install when you do it and a post a pic to if you can It will confirm everything about that faceplate, that would be great if someone else stumbles onto this thread in the future
Chris
i have a canadian mini cooper s hardtop with a jcw performance package upgrade. maybe that makes a lil more sense to your confusion? and its all good no worries
... and this forum has saved me a million times over. very true.
i plan on documenting the whole process. hopefully it will help somebody as much as this how to helped me
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