how do u get the oil temp? or would oil pressure be a better one ... I need a boost and something else :p.. Havn't figured out the other fun one to watch . HELP ME

 

oil temp is tapped from the oil pan, water temp is tapped from the radiator hose in the front of the IC (in the hard plastic inspection plug), volts are from the main bat terminal.

I'm still looking into a way to get a oil pressure reading to add that gauge and an EGT gauge. Possibly a Head temp and a Header temp gauge too.


I like to know what my car is doing at all times.

 

how about an a/f gauge . Water temp is on the main gauge for me. I think oil or tranny temp would be nice

 

tranny temp isnt exactly useful in a street driven manual car, mostly for automatics to check the fluid temps.

and, yes, an A/F gauge would be nice too.

my next 4 gauges will be on the dash behind the steering wheel. stay tuned to see my new cocpit, er interior pics

 

Very nice thread from DarkMiniCooperS! Thanks a lot of this "How to" information! I think we should put this as a "Sticky" thread, which will help the rest who wants to install the Boost gauge into their Mini Cooper S, and save DarkMiniCooperS some times by replying the PM everyday, lol.

Once again, thanks a lot DarkMiniCooperS. Not just for the Boost gauge, but all my other modification helps and information, you are THE MAN.

 

You dont need to dig in the wiring harness or use the cig . lighter for power . The grey /red wire runs to the tack gauge . its 3 inches from the boost gauge you will be installing. Its super easy to tap into the molex plug or splice into the wire behind the tack gauge.

 

Yes, as Sneves said, the lightning wire can also be tapped into the harness of the tach.

Thanks Sneves... This thread is on its way for a sticky thread, at least I hope so! lol

 

Do you think the wire in the tach can support lighting for 4 gauges? Or do you think it will draw 2 much power and blow a fuse?

 

I really don't know about this???

Maybe another member, who has experience with electricals might help you better...?? or any good car shops will be able to answer your question!

 

I think you would have to know the draw and the fuse capabilities? And know the draw on each lamp. Ie if Its a 24w bulb, thats 2amps. If its a 5 amp circuit u don't wanna be more than 4 :/.

 

Gauge lights are 5w bulbs. You could hook up quite a few before it becomes a problem.

 

there u go :P

 

i'll let you know if i have any problems after i get all 8 of my gauges installed

 

This is a great thread, very helpful. I have just have a few questions: what path does the tube leaving the boost gauge take? Does it pierce thru the rubber boot around the steering column to get under the dash? I assume this tube from the guage is pretty skinny. What connector is used to mate it up to the vac line from the FPR?

 

Summit is great. I broke my first guage trying to install it and just sent it back and they sent me a new one. Quick ship and easy to deal with.

 

DarkMini:

I'm just about ready to do this, but I do have one concern. I am a tall, long-legged driver. I sit with the seat nearly all the way back and the tilt on the steering wheel nearly all the way up in order to avoid knee contact with the bottom of the steering wheel when operating the clutch and/or brake pedal. How much of the upward tilt will be eliminated by this modification? It appears as though the bracket and cup may significantly reduce the upward tilt of the wheel as it is depicted in some of the photos - am I correct about this? I want to thank you again for an awesome write-up. I really want to do this, as I think that both in appearance and cost, this is a great mod to our MINIS.

 

My steering wheel can still be raised to the upper position without a problem. It doesn't touche the dashboard, or anything else when raised to the upward tilt position. This is true when mounting the gauge on the left side of the Tach, but on the right side, I have no idea...

 

Thanks DarkMini - I will order the parts today!

 

Great write up....make it a sticky!

 

If you guys run into a problem with the current draw on the lighting circuit, keep in mind you can also illuminate your gauges with LED's which will lower the amperage draw significantly.

 

ZERO reduction / steering wheel adjustment loss for me.

 

Thanks - we were thinking alike.

It appears that the only difference between our installs is

a) that you did had to drill the tach pod (right?) and the extended bracket allowed me to use the stock screw hole.
b) However the extended bracket (from autometer) required modification / fabrication while you where able to use "as is" the cup mount.

So it seems like 1 half dozen or the other to me.

Your cup ring is pretty far back, I assume if tightened up no issues, right?

BUT - I connected to the vaccum line right were it plugs in to the engine (i.e. under the SC horn) and it took several weeks for the skin to grow back on my knuckes, it seems you figured out an easier way to hook-up the plumbing.

 

Okay I'm going to add some extras to this list.

Bolts needed...
2- 1/4-20 by .5 black button head allen screws
1- 8-32 by 1.25" black phillips
The orange bulb needed is a 194 bulb!
and lots of time!
2 shots of tequlia
1 vicoden


Fun project. Had to bore out the exention holes but it worked great. Shows 20 on the vaccum side though when ideling. but at 3k rpms it goes up to 5psi boost. FUN FUN!

 

Hi BahamaBart,

The mounting cup's bracket I got does NOT require any hole to be drilled behind the tach

 

did you screw in to an existing hole?