I've removed both, it's not challenging. I'll generally remove the PTO end to at least give the gears a look to get an overall feel for SC health on a car new to me, but isn't really necessary.

Drain the oil, refill with clean oil is about all that is needed. If you want to remove the snout and PTO end you'll need an 8mm socket and some anaerobic sealant when you close it back up.

Remove the 10mm bolts from either end, and wiggle the casing to remove. Be very careful to not mar the mating faces.

10mm bolts visible on snout face on first pic. Removed PTO casing visible in 2nd pic.


Snout

PTO

 

Thanks for that. I was worried about making something fall out of place, still waiting for my ebay service manual to arrive here!

 

Although I purchased a new copy of the full Bentley shop manual (blue hard cover edition), I subsequently bought a pdf version from an eBay seller for just a few USD with download link furnished. IMO an illegal copy, however page for page content matched the hardbound, so I have that on my laptops plus dedicated Android tablet kept in the R53. Since I bought the original at near MSRP, I don't have issues buying the bootleg version for near nothing, comparatively. Just a suggestion...

 

- Gary

You will need:

- Roughly 6 hours
- Two 4-oz. bottles of supercharger oil: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12345982/ - $8.95ea
- SC Input gasket from throttle body duct (green rubber) 11610020836 - $18.02
- Throttle body o-ring (orange rubber) 13547509045 - $13.04
- Water pump to block O-ring (black rubber) - only need one but come in pack of two 11517509186 - $2.54
(Thanks to ellingtj for the last three)

Please, if I left anything out (I don't think I did...) Please part an update below. Thanks!

Step 1:

Remove front bumper cover. As I know this is on many other how-to's, I won't get into detail on this, but there are several screws on the underside, one in each fender well, and two Torx (T30, I think) screws in the front under the hood. Be careful when removing, and make sure all the light connectors are unplugged, as well as the outdoor temp sensor.

Step 2:

Remove front bumper. See image below. Remove the four nuts and one bolt on each side (circled in yellow). Do NOT remove the one bolt with spacer on each side. It doesn't need to come out. Remove front bumper. Remove the square-shaped spacers (if applicable) from each mounting point. Remember how many are on each side, they aid in proper alignment.

Attachment 170973

Step 3:

Remove bumper supports. In red in the below image, remove the front bumper supports. There is one bolt on the front, in green, which attaches them to the plastic radiator shroud. There are also two bolts on each which connect to the subframe (not pictured).

Attachment 170974

Step 4:

Drain radiator. Make sure car is not too hot; you could burn yourself. Locate the radiator hose on the driver's side of the radiator, on the bottom back corner. With a drain pan underneath, un-clip and slide off the hose. Wait for the fluid to stop draining.

Step 5:

Swing A/C condenser out of the way. Remove the two bolts holding the A/C condenser to the radiator. Lift the coil up and lift off the radiator. Allow it to safely swing out of the way (it doesn't get too far out of the way).

Step 6:

Remove radiator/shroud. Remove the top radiator hose on the passenger's side top of the radiator. Unplug the two connectors on the driver's side top of the radiator. Remove intake hose from shroud. Remove the four plastic clips connecting the shroud to each inner-fenders (circled in yellow in picture below). Unclip the horn on each side (circled in green). When removing the shroud, slowly pull the wires and clips for the lights etc. from the hole on each side. Slowly remove shroud, being careful not to damage the A/C condenser.

Attachment 170975

Step 7:

Remove serpentine belt. While it is easy to do this if you have the belt removal tool... that tool is expensive and not all of us have one. Below is an image of my setup, which wasn't perfect, but worked OK. Vise-grip pliers holding a socket on the pivot-bolt. A long prybar against this socket and under the idler mount. A wedge between the prybar and frame, so it doesn't slip off. Sorry if this is confusing... your own creativity is encouraged here.

Attachment 170976

Step 8:

Remove alternator. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Be sure you allow yourself access to the trunk to reconnect the battery after... the trunk switch won't work without power! Disconnect positive cable (red) and the plug (green) going to the alternator. Remove the three mounting bolts (yellow), remove alternator.

Attachment 170977

Step 9:

Remove intercooler. Four screws on diffuser. Two screws on each rubber boot clamp. Two screws on each black mounting bracket. Remove intercooler.

Step 10:

Disconnect throttle body. Remove intake tube from throttle body and airbox. Remove four bolts on throttle body. Remove throttle body from supercharger intake tube. No need to remove plug or small hose going to throttle body, just move it out of the way a bit.

Step 11:

Remove dipstick/guide. Remove two bolts attaching dipstick to engine. Remove wires from clips on bottom bracket. Wiggle dipstick guide out. Be sure to PLUG the hole left behind. When you remove the supercharger, antifreeze will come out of the waterpump, and will end up going directly into your oil if it's not plugged up. You should move your drain pan to accommodate this spill.

Step 12:

Remove supercharger. Carefully disconnect the vacuum line from supercharger (yellow). The little red plastic retainer can be fragile, and if it breaks, it can be expensive to replace (sold as part of a kit, not separately). Remove intake tube bolt (red). Remove belt tensioner bolt (green). This will have some tension, but not a lot. Be careful, still. Remove radiator hose mounting clamp bolt (blue). Unclip smaller hose clamp and slide backwards onto hose from waterpump (light blue/cyan). Remove the four supercharger mounting bolts (pink). That's it! Carefully slide out the supercharger. It's easiest if you move the tensioner bracket out of the way, and wiggle the left side of the S/C away from the motor first. The intake tube is stubborn to come off. Be careful not to over stress the two vacuum lines going into the intake tube. Also, be careful not to put to much stress on the vacuum line you removed. It''s molded plastic and I can only imagine it isn't too hard to break if you over-flex it.

Attachment 170978

And here is what the S/C will look like when it's out:

Attachment 170979

Step 13:

Drain oil. Drain oil (if there's any left in there ) from both holes on the supercharger. Two images below, each bolt circled in yellow.

Attachment 170980
Attachment 170981

Step 14:

Add new oil. While keeping the S/C level, fill each hole until the oil just seeps out, then cap it up. Make sure you use oil made specially for superchargers. GM makes S/C oil that's readily available for about $9 for a 4 oz. bottle. You will need two bottles (well, one and a half). It's easy to do if you put a tube on the bottle so you can keep the S/C level. I think it's 50mL in the back, and 250mL in the front... But I'm not sure. I filled until it seeped out, which, if you pay careful attention, is about how full they were before.

Step 15:

Reverse! Following these instructions backwards, put your car back together. Take your time, be careful, and make sure you reconnect everything. Make sure the vacuum lines are all WELL connected. You should clean the line you removed and ensure a good connection.

I hope this helps![/QUOTE]