I've had a leak in the radiaor seam for a while, but only lost about a cup every 1,000 miles. It's the sweet smell that bothered me more than anything. I finally broke down and got a radiator from Pelican Parts. It was a perfect OEM fit. Overall, the job wasn't bad at all. I thought about doing a DIY with pictures, but I was in a bit of a hurry so sorry about that. I'll recap the steps below.

1. Remove the two hex screws at the top front of the bumper.
2. Remove the two 8mm screws from the wheel well that hold and adjust the corners of the bumper. Be careful not to remove the horizontally mounted bolt because that's your adjustment and it should remain where it was. Remove the vertical bolt facing up.
3. Remove the 3 10mm hex bolts at the bottom edge of the bumper, then there are 2 philips screws outboard of those bolts that secure the bumper to the flashing.
4. At this point, the bumper is only held by clips and should carefully be pulled back about 6" so you can disconnect the marker lights on the sides and front, fog lights, and temperature sensor wires.
5. Remove all bolts on the actual metal bumper under structure. If I remember correctly, there were 8 nuts and 2 bolts, all 13mm I think.
6. Next, you need to remove the top two 10mm bolts at the top of the condensor (the small radiator in front of the main). This will lift up and swing out just enough to rest on the ground.
7. Remove the upper hose from the radiator, and be ready for a mess if you didn't drain the fluid. I couldn't find a drain plug on the radiator.
8. Remove the two plastic retainers at the top of the radiator and lean out a bit, then remove the two rubber isolators at the corners.
9. Pull the radiator up and out just enough to release the two fan clips midway down and remove the fan. It will rest in the opening until you're ready to install the new radiator.
10. Lift the radiator up and have someone hold it while you remove the lower hose. You could also do this from below if you remove the belly pan, but I didn't want to jack it up. Again, catch the fluid.
11. Remove the two bottom rubber isolators from the radiator and attach to the new one.
12. Holding the new radiator in the air, attach the lower hose.
13. Lower the radiator into place, and attach the fan assy.
14. Attach the two upper isolators to the radiator and tilt into place.
15. Attach the two plastic fasteners, grommet first, then center insert to secure.
16. Swing condensor into place and secure with 2 upper bolts. You will need to insert 2 included nuts into their retainer on the radiator, or use the old ones.
17. Attach everything else in the reverse order as removed above.
18. Fill the radiator with a 50/50 mixture of mini antifreeze and distilled water. Remove the bleeder valve in the upper radiator hose. You won't get any flow until the thermostat has opened. It was cold outside so I had to close things up and take it for a run to open the thermostat, then fill it the rest of the way. I cracked the bleeder again to ensure I didn't have a bubble. There's supposed to be a second bleeder, but I couldn't find it.

 

may be taking a look at doing this myself soon...

 

Never had a problem by simply bleeding it from the bleeder on the hose in the front. I fill everything up, start the car and let it run a bit, shut it down, open the bleeder screw and repeat until air stop coming out and that antifreeze gets out. Then I check my levels again, add if required and check it after a normal drive. Always worked just fine for me.

 

ahhh just noticed this is for the old chassis

 

I replaced my with a Mishimoto over a year ago and absolutely love it. I thought it was a bigger job also. But all worked out well.