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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Just purchased a set of Godspeed MonoMax. Fast purchase because during an oil change I saw fluid coming out of both front struts, I have a 2011 MCS.
$840 free shipping didn’t look too bad to me. Will let you guys know how everything works out when they come in.
Let us know, Godspeed has good MINI Cooper coverage, that's what I liked about them. Most companies only focus on the core models, they also have different spring rates per model like on the R50. They carry R58, R60 and even the F55+, hard to find some of those models.
I got my Godspeed set today. Too late to start on it now but tomorrow morning I will be on it. They don’t look half bad. Tightened the bolts on the camber plate set to 0. I will adjust when they are on the car and I can see what’s going on when it’s on the ground. I extended the shock height to pretty much what I want it to be for the winters here. Once again I will adjust that when the car is on the ground.
Also gotta see how I’m gonna reuse the top mounting plate from the stock rears. I don’t have a spring compressor handy to remove the plate. When I did my gti it didn’t have any load on it so when I removed the top bolt it was fine. Not sure about the mini.
Well I just finished the front install. Pretty straight forward. 3 13mm on the top tower, 1 18mm pinch Bolt and nut holding the shock to the hub and a 16 mm bolt and nut for the end link to the shock.
I tried to adjust it close to the stock height but didn’t want to extend it too long.
Before
After
It’s like 1/2 inch to an inch lower.
Looks good, i had those Factory MINI steelies, they run super skinny snow tires and for the Cooper S R56 Models that need a 16" steel wheel. Sure rare to see and they have that matching center cap.
Sorry I’ve been busy since the install of the rear shocks. I braved it and just used my foot to hold the spring on the floor and removed the top but on the top hat. No biggie, popped off but not dangerous at all. Installed the rears but I have to raise the height a bit. So it’s been a couple of weeks since the install. My only issue is that it’s a harsh ride. I have the winter it’s on there now. I can imagine the roughness when I get the summer low pros on there. The dampening goes from 1 soft - 40 hard I’m currently on 20. Might go down to 15 but don’t want to be too soft.
Just make sure everything is tight or you are gonna get rattles. Also I’m hearing spring popping sometimes when turning the steering wheel while parking or slow left and rights. Like it’s binding but it’s fine to me.
Keep you guys updated.
Thanks for the update. Dial softer and then drive a day or two with it. Then Dial it again like 2 clicks at a time. On the poping jack the car up off the ground and turn the wheel, check to make sure the spring is seated good on the perch.
Thanks for the update. Dial softer and then drive a day or two with it. Then Dial it again like 2 clicks at a time. On the poping jack the car up off the ground and turn the wheel, check to make sure the spring is seated good on the perch.
thanks. There’s no notch in the perch for it to align to, all smooth. I figure since it’s the pillow ball uppers that it just might need a bit of silicon spray.
let u know
sorry using phone for message.
Sorry I’ve been busy since the install of the rear shocks. I braved it and just used my foot to hold the spring on the floor and removed the top but on the top hat. No biggie, popped off but not dangerous at all. Installed the rears but I have to raise the height a bit. So it’s been a couple of weeks since the install. My only issue is that it’s a harsh ride. I have the winter it’s on there now. I can imagine the roughness when I get the summer low pros on there. The dampening goes from 1 soft - 40 hard I’m currently on 20. Might go down to 15 but don’t want to be too soft.
Just make sure everything is tight or you are gonna get rattles. Also I’m hearing spring popping sometimes when turning the steering wheel while parking or slow left and rights. Like it’s binding but it’s fine to me.
Keep you guys updated.
I bought the same coilovers. That binding means something is loose. Double check your collars. Double check the camber plate and tighten the nuts. Also torque down the top nut.
i bought these coilovers on a whim. Everyone seems to talk down on these but they are pretty decent. I have my preload eliminated. My R56 is tucking tire. Rides pretty well full stiff front and back.
if I were to go back, I’d probably would’ve gone Airlift performance.
I bought the same coilovers. That binding means something is loose. Double check your collars. Double check the camber plate and tighten the nuts. Also torque down the top nut.
i bought these coilovers on a whim. Everyone seems to talk down on these but they are pretty decent. I have my preload eliminated. My R56 is tucking tire. Rides pretty well full stiff front and back.
if I were to go back, I’d probably would’ve gone Airlift performance.
Thanks, definitely torqued down the top nut. With the car up in the air and down on the ground. I will check to make sure the collars are tight but if they were loose wouldn’t that not cause binding? I’ve had the same noise on another car when the bearings went bad on the top plate and bushing(Vw).
Cant check today car is full of snow lol.
They feel fine so far. Proper preload is a must. If not you’re gonna be very bouncy. I still have the binding spring popping noise. I should have gotten the set with the bearing uppers rather than the set with the pullow ball uppers. All in all I’m happy up to now.
They feel fine so far. Proper preload is a must. If not you’re gonna be very bouncy. I still have the binding spring popping noise. I should have gotten the set with the bearing uppers rather than the set with the pullow ball uppers. All in all I’m happy up to now.
I’ve had mine for almost a year without any preload. Preload is a touchy subject for some. My setup isn’t bouncy at all. It’s on full stiff front and back. You’ll lose shock travel but I haven’t bottomed at all. I’m tucking tire on 17’s. Rides great imo.
Just make sure you adjust the sway bar correctly front and back from lowering. Also get the car aligned. I’m using 8mm spacers from ECS as well
Preload just doesn’t make any sense if the springs are always the same. If it was progressive then yes it would ride differently per say. You might run into blowing the struts quicker but I highly doubt that will happen.
I am considering upgrading the springs to swift springs after a RSB upgrade.
The OD for these springs are 62mm if anyone is reading and searching.
These threads always devolve into a match between two different sets of ideals. For what it's worth, I have used both high dollar suspension parts from Koni's to KW's, and ebay brands from Megan to Godspeed to no-name NNR's. I've used them on cheap nearly-junk cars to 5 series BMW's. Here's my takeaway:
- If you care about excellent performance, comfort, or a mixture of both, spend the extra $ on quality parts if you can afford it.
- If all you want to do is lower the car for an aesthetically pleasing commute, go for the less expensive stuff. I typically follow this route as it is what I do - commute with occasional fun drives down the coast or twisties. From my experience, the less expensive stuff "work" just fine - they won't blow up on you for no reason. I'm not talking $30 ebay sleeves, but the modestly priced stuff like Megans and Godspeeds. Heck, I bought a set of $300 NNR coilovers brand new for my old e39 BMW 5 series and it was just as comfortable as stock. Drove the thing for years.
Don't get me wrong though. Your ride will suffer in varying degrees from the cheap stuff, depending on what it is and the application. I absolutely loved my old Koni/GC setup on previous cars, they were so buttery smooth. Also loved my old Teins. Etc.
As always, follow the proper installation procedures and you'll be alright.
11-21-2017, 02:03 PM
