If you're going to live in the beach coast area....Yeah - loud exhausts are frowned upon by the locals and law enforcement....(I knew that all too well)
Times may have changed since then. I think you'll be just fine without having to sacrifice any of your performance presence.

 

Damn this is awful. I've been meaning to follow up and find out the verdict but I don't think there's any situation where that wouldn't be totalled.
Labour rates and parts costs are insane even before you throw the 'insurance job' modifier on it, and these cars aren't worth much these days.

I would probably use this opportunity to attempt/practice bodywork/PDR, given the love you have given the car already I'm assuming you'd rather keep it, and the fact you have nothing to lose by trying.
The dent is sharp and will need paint no matter what, but if you can PDR it somewhat straight and touch-up the paint, it might not be noticeable in most lighting at 10ft or so.

Or graft some bits off a junkyard car, and probably grab all the bent suspension bits while you're there.

Just from the part of my mind that feels that imperfect cars are freeing and a lot more fun than something you need to care about 'ruining'

 

Thanks for the suggestion. All the mods I've done to the car were for my own enjoyment. I never expected to get anything back from them. Also, the car has a LOT of miles on it, even if it still looks good from 15ft. It would need much more than just pulling out this dent. At its age and mileage, I was looking at a 2 year retirement for it anyway. This event just brought that in by about a year. If I can sell it for $2000-2500 come spring time, I'll be better off, too. I just need to start planning my next chapter a little sooner than expected.

 

Parking lot overlook lake right before you can cross the dam

Pre dam

On top Fontana dam

On dam

On dam

 

More dam 😉 pics

 

@njaremka, glad you could come to an agreement. I'm still trying to sort things out for my E46. I have the car sold once the settlement is reached and it's going to become someone's track/drift toy. For now I went to the junkyard and spent $20 on a new bumper beam with energy absorbers. Then I banged the quarter panel out enough to mount a taillight I already had and I've been driving it.

As for Mini related updates, I finished the wiring mods and installed the bi-xenons in Ziggy today. I still need to hook up the laptop and do the coding to get the warnings to go away, but they work! I also tried some cheap silicone wiper inserts from Amazon. Curious to see how these work out. I got a 4 pack of 19" inserts and did all four blades, trimming the inserts as needed.

 

Washed and detailed the wife's CM, for tomorrow's mini meet in Temecula, CA. I was only able to stare at my boxes of goodies till I get back from the meet. I'm so excited to install the new digital speedometer/tachometer for my coupe along with comp intercooler and new piping. Don't think anyone here has tried the digital speedo yet.

 

What year? I just finished adding Xenon to my 2012 R58 Coupe. I followed two threads
This one told me how to change the wiring harness. I couldn't modify the wire on the inside, no room to get at it. Glad I didn't as after I changed the coding, AUTO_LWR_ENABLE nicht_aktiv, DYNAM_LWR_ENABLE nicht_aktiv, PWM_FL_BEI_BIXENON wert_01, both high/low beam worked.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...to-finish.html

 

I was using that thread, as well. Ziggy is a 2011. You have to remove the connnector from the housing and pop the wiring holders out of the housing and then you can pull it out to do the mods inside the lights.

 

I changed the oil on our 05 R52 Cool Blue Metallic.

Here is a short video:


I used Liqui Moly from Advance Auto - it was on sale:



Then I also tried an oil extractor - cheapish one from Amazon. It worked extremely well. No messing with the drain plug or jacking up the car:



Here are the tools and a shot of the old and new filter. The car is low on miles since the last oil change (2000 ish) but way over due on time. We don't drive this so much because it is in great shape and we really like it (100,400 miles on it). The filter was coincidentally also on sale for $3 Fram FD09584.



Notice the pro tip - make your own free funnel by cutting an empty quart sized oil container. Fits very nicely in the oil cap hole.

And here is a close up of the old filter - no sparkles so I am happy.



Good luck and happy motoring.

 

As much as I change change my oil -
2wo items I'd love to have in my tool arsenal = 1) Oil Extractor, 2) Low Profile Jack...
Just not enough room for someone (me) who likes to move a lot.

 

My Xenon were from a 2013 JCW, I took the cover off where the plugs are just couldn't see a way to get at them or get them out without possibly braking them. As stated above, after coding, I am glad I didn't as them work fine stock

 

That cluster looks interesting...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/395528063822

Can't say I've seen those before. Cost looks crazy on that eBay auction. I hope you paid less than that!

 

I bought mine off AliExpress for a few hundred less. I was going to add gauges from Cravenspeed and the setup was going to cost me the same, so I said I'll be the guinea pig and test it out. Two things so far, if you have the bluetooth mic on the steering column then you'll have to buy a new cover. I had to dremel mine cause I have the mic, (new old cover ordered). I also have this check tyre pressure message that I never had before, so I have reached out to the seller for more info on that. Overall pretty happy with it.

 

Cool! Does it plug into the OEM tach harness, or somewhere else?

 

Yup, you have to disconnect the plug from inside the tach and plug it into the new gauges.

 

So Cool!

And there is one for the F56 MINI (EBay). That useless cluster MINI gave us may just have to go.

 

I think for a 3rd gen, I would probably just update to the OEM wide screen cluster piece.

The coolest thing about that device is that it includes a coolant gauge.

 

This looks very nice, and a great way to get the information you want right in front of you. I’ve a 2016 JCW Hardtop and they have one for the F56 version…anything odd about install or to take note of the device? Is this just some no name label that makes it? I’m definitely interested…I like this more than the OEM digital cluster and it somewhat matches the style of my current analog gauges…

 

Don't know who makes it but the seller said they are gaining popularity overseas and he thinks I might be one of the few here in the states. I know the F56 has there mic overhead so should be no problems mounting it. If you have a R series and bluetooth mic on your top steering wheel cover you'll have to modify it to fit or purchase a plain top cover and move the mic somewhere else. I dremeled mine to fit and ordered a new cover.

 

Thank you, seriously considering. The only pause I have is the comment in all listings stating “…do not work with original optic fiber”…I suspect this is for new F56 with the digital dash, and states to contact seller. Will have to inquire as to what this is from the seller. Trying to avoid taking apart the cluster before the install - they did provide the following picture stating does not work with this configuration:

 

Ie, speedo, tach ... what else ?

 

Today is exactly one year as my 2024 JCW went off the production line. Felt like a good reason to buy a new set of cold weather wheels set in preparation for winter.
Will put them on once it's cold enough outside, which is probably going to be soon...

 

Coolant Temp, Reset Service Reminders on screen, 1 screen shows Odometer, Trip A, Trip B on a 3 second rotation. Tire pressure/bar on another screen. You can set screen brightness for daytime and night. Alarms for speed and coolant levels. Has a nice startup animation as well. Updates are done through a USB cable also attached to the gauges.

 

So while the bixenons turned on and the shutters worked during testing, without the coding they turned off after about 30 seconds. Coding is something I've never gotten into, despite having the software. I watched videos, and read DIYs, and it still seemed more complicated than people make it seem. And I'm not the most computer savvy. So, I called in some help. Someone younger and more experienced and he had the coding done in less than 5 minutes. Bixenons are up and running, no error messages, just quality lighting.