Third brake light blinker module. Blinks the third brake light 4 or 5 times when you hit the brakes before going solid. Rear visibility is important with the cell phone generation on the road.

 

The pulsar, right? Let me know how you like it. Have consider3d it a few times but never pulled trigger.

 

Rebuilt a salvage yard key lock cylinder with parts from my original (19.7 y/o), now defunct driver side door lock.




All went well with the rebuild/refurbished door lock.
I posted a condensed write-up here

Wile I was in there: I also replaced the driver side door actuator with a brand new one.
Unfortunately still no joy. Remote / Key FOB still won't unlock the driver's door.
Investigating the BCM soon.

 

First time doing a full wrap and stripes done over a few of weekends

 

^^^^Oh - now, that's AWESOME!^^^

 

Looks great! I want those wheels….

 

Probably the first time in quite some years that my MINI had a full compliment of lower window trim clips. The lower window trim completes my trim redo. All rubber and trim pieces upper and lower, replaced.



Will rubber wheel the old adhesive off the a-pillars tomorrow and get those back on.

 

Coded the new mini. All the usuals, fogs with high beams, fogs with park, comfort close amd open, no speed lock, no two step lock, double impulse hazards,etc.
coded cold check off for the rear turn signals since they are LED to get rid of the hyperflash issue. also found where to code out the clutch switch interrupt in ews. But since this one has a sticky starter will have to wait to 100% confirm it till I can test on one of the other ones.

DiS tells me it is the right front abs sensor that is out, iirc it is the left that is bad on parts car so that’s fixable.

polished the hood just to try it out and see how it looked. Polished headlights, they are still slightly yellow but about as good as they will get at the moment.

also started UNfüćking the mess someone made of the driving light wiring. Basically I’m going to want to run new underhood positive wiring cause they cut it in random places, the big ugly fuse box is only connected on one side with the other cut off, etc. wire gauge seems a little small too. Will do more research and what it is supposed to connect to, and try to replicate that. Was able to confirm with a jumper wire that both Hellas do work. So once this gets fixed I’ll have some decent lighting at least.

 

Let my housemate drive it.

 

Wow, that looks totaled

 

Man, sorry to hear that. Hope they have good insurance.

 

Re ran new positive leads for the driving lights, since some PO cut them and pulled parts of them out, and found the hot wire off the fuse box to the driving light fuse holder they cut and was able to reattach it… rewrapped and zip tied the wires up correctly… then took a drive to a dark long straight road nearby so I could aim them.

Sorry for mess, garage is a little crowded at the moment.

 

Just a few pics, JIC a freak hailstorm comes in. 7k isn’t so bad 😉, still haven’t hit 7400. Thanks again Adrian, such a fun little toy.

 

Scored a wind screen for my daughter's R52S off of FB marketplace for a good price...

 

Got this in, gave it a really good clean with Leno’s leather cleaner, then applied leather conditioner, let it soak in, then again and let it soak in, now to install it.

and yes, it really is in near immaculate condition.

 

 

Looks great!

 

Welcome to the Duo Club !

 

Hey nice find!
I just came across one from a salvage yard in the back hatch of an '05 R52. Nearly everything on that (southern climate) car was in brand new condition - including the wind screen.
Give me a heads up if you are ever in the need for rust free parts for your daughter's R52. - Happy to help if I can!

BTW: I can't thank you enough for that tip a while back about re-keying a key lock. I took it upon myself and re-keyed my door lock in conjunction with a salvage yard lock cylinder - Worked great!
On that same subject:
Last night I was poking around the locking mechanism on the locking glove box I had pulled from that very same 05 R52. Unfortunately, I couldn't figure out how to pull the cylinder out (to re-key it), without breaking the plastic parts.
On an off chance I inserted the key for my '04 R53 into the glove box lock, about 3/4 of the way and it actually turns = locks and unlocks!.


My '04 R53 key inserted 3/4 into a glove box lock from an '05 R52


My 04 key actually worked - Where I can lock and unlock the glove box!



I would still like to pull the cylinder (with out damage) so I can re-key the tumbler pins to properly work with my original key.

Pretty cool though - nonetheless.

 

I'm glad the re-keying worked out!

Did you grab that windscreen from that R52 in the salvage yard? If not, could you pick it up the next time you go?

On the glovebox lock cylinder, I haven't looked at one of those on the Mini, yet. I know with some lock cylinders you may need the key fully inserted in order to remove the cylinder, even once any other retention features are removed. Unfortunately, your key is only going 3/4 of the way in, so there's no way to check against that.

 

Will do.
Discovered the windscreen about 2wo or three weekends ago. The 'vert' has been resting there since late June - so I hope it's still there and hasn't met with the crusher yet.

quick edit:
My key from my R53 does fully insert into the glove box lock. But only turns = unlocks/locks when inserted partway in.

 

Yeah - Another headlight resto-polishing post.

Today I had a half day of work, so I took the opportunity to hit the salvage yard knowing that a couple of 1st gens that have been sitting on the lot for more than 30 days were soon to meet their final fate with the crusher.
The Mini's that were left were nearly completely ravaged. Including a sweet 05 R52 (sorry @khnitz. Had I only known then...). There was not much left to score or add to my spare parts collection.

I've been wanting to update my pre-facelift headlights to projectors for some time now. Needless to say I had a lot of missed-opportunities. As we know; the OEM's (new or used) are grossly over priced (IMO).
Even though what I'd initially hoped to score was met with disappoint, I didn't leave there empty handed.

I took a chance on pulling the only projector that I've seen (still on a car) in while - which was in pretty sad shape.


Although I forgot to take a photo of the R52.. Even after a quick wash the oxidation on this headlight I pulled, seemed hopeless.


After a fair amount of scrubbing with my favorite cleansers (Hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, Isopropyl... ) and nylon scrubbing media.


Finished off with 600grit, 3M rubbing compound and final polish

Not bad for $30 (without ballast).

Until next trip to the graveyard. - One down one2go.

 

Looks great!

Applying some kind of protective coating should help keep them clear as they’ll quickly haze again out in the elements.

I’ve been using wax, but I’m thinking of trying a ceramic coat for a more permanent solution.

 

Thanks!

I agree. I've managed to maintain my original pre-facelift ones so they are still pretty crystal clear but with just a (hardly noticeable) hint of yellow. I've 3M compound them every so often and apply Nu-Finish.
After almost 20 years the lenses are just now starting to craze.
It has often been recommended to 2K or clear coat the lenses afterwards but I'm personally not in favor of spraying any kind of product that produces that much "build-up" over the clear plastic. That's just me.
I'm keeping this projector set aside until I find a driver side and will apply ceramic to both after polish and installation.

' pretty happy that I took a gamble $$ on/and cleaning up this seemingly irreparable unit.

 

I have the same feeling regarding spraying 2K clear on the lenses. $30 is a great price, especially if your old ballasts and bulbs can be transferred over.

I don’t have a pre-facelift to look at in person, but I always thought the lenses were the same on both. Do they look interchangeable to you? More of a curiosity since the likelihood of needing to do that would be slim, but you never what kind of hacks might be needed in the future when parts become harder to get.