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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
It was a PITA because I rounded the bolt head that goes in the bottom of the mount. This was after trying 6-sided sockets on it and then going out to buy a set of star sockets. Didn't matter.
I ended up just pulling and pushing on the old mount until it broke off and then using an angle grinder to remove what remained of the mount. Then I used a hammer and punch to drive the bolt out through the bottom.
Oh the joys of working on older cars.
BEFORE
AFTER
Today I'm working on removing the calipers because I want to get them powder-coated. This is new territory for me. I've changed pads and rotors before and solved issues with guide pins, but I've never disassembled calipers completely.
The challenge I'm facing right now is disconnecting the parking brake cables from the rear calipers. I discovered that the driver's side cable was rusted and seized and needs to be replaced. But the challenge is pulling the cable housing out of the caliper. On an older car like this the two components are frozen together. First I tried applying heat and pounding at it. Tried a hammer and chisel, which did create a small gap on the back side that I used to get an angle grinder into. Yep, had to just cut that flocker off. Unfortunately, I'll probably have to cut the other one off too, even though it is a good cable.
It was a PITA because I rounded the bolt head that goes in the bottom of the mount. This was after trying 6-sided sockets on it and then going out to buy a set of star sockets. Didn't matter.
I ended up just pulling and pushing on the old mount until it broke off and then using an angle grinder to remove what remained of the mount. Then I used a hammer and punch to drive the bolt out through the bottom.
Oh the joys of working on older cars.
BEFORE
AFTER
Today I'm working on removing the calipers because I want to get them powder-coated. This is new territory for me. I've changed pads and rotors before and solved issues with guide pins, but I've never disassembled calipers completely.
The challenge I'm facing right now is disconnecting the parking brake cables from the rear calipers. I discovered that the driver's side cable was rusted and seized and needs to be replaced. But the challenge is pulling the cable housing out of the caliper. On an older car like this the two components are frozen together. First I tried applying heat and pounding at it. Tried a hammer and chisel, which did create a small gap on the back side that I used to get an angle grinder into. Yep, had to just cut that flocker off. Unfortunately, I'll probably have to cut the other one off too, even though it is a good cable.
+1 yes a pain when they are rusted on. I PB blasted mine, then walked them out with a pair of pliers, Mine were bad , but did not need heated and chiseled.
Do both at the same time. Saves problems down the road.
It was a PITA because I rounded the bolt head that goes in the bottom of the mount. This was after trying 6-sided sockets on it and then going out to buy a set of star sockets. Didn't matter.
I ended up just pulling and pushing on the old mount until it broke off and then using an angle grinder to remove what remained of the mount. Then I used a hammer and punch to drive the bolt out through the bottom.
Oh the joys of working on older cars.
Today I'm working on removing the calipers because I want to get them powder-coated. This is new territory for me. I've changed pads and rotors before and solved issues with guide pins, but I've never disassembled calipers completely.
The challenge I'm facing right now is disconnecting the parking brake cables from the rear calipers. I discovered that the driver's side cable was rusted and seized and needs to be replaced. But the challenge is pulling the cable housing out of the caliper. On an older car like this the two components are frozen together. First I tried applying heat and pounding at it. Tried a hammer and chisel, which did create a small gap on the back side that I used to get an angle grinder into. Yep, had to just cut that flocker off. Unfortunately, I'll probably have to cut the other one off too, even though it is a good cable.
Good job on the mount! The cables can be a pain after many years of gunk/brake dust build up. Spraying some WD40 on there to sit for a little to help. From a thread, "I used a pair of slip joint pliers to move the lever on the caliper enough to get the 'ball' out of the lever, then used a small drift and a hammer to get the cable out of the caliper housing." Although they're fine, after the years it's not a bad idea to replace them. Cables here if needed. Since you'll have it off and you're going to get it powdercoated you'll most likely need to take the boot off, in which case it may also just be a good idea to replace them while you have the caliper off. Boots HERE, one for both side (MINI doesn't sell the seal, just the boot). Let me know if you have any questions.
+1 yes a pain when they are rusted on. I PB blasted mine, then walked them out with a pair of pliers, Mine were bad , but did not need heated and chiseled.
Do both at the same time. Saves problems down the road.
Congrats on the work. Well done.
Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
Good job on the mount! The cables can be a pain after many years of gunk/brake dust build up. Spraying some WD40 on there to sit for a little to help. From a thread, "I used a pair of slip joint pliers to move the lever on the caliper enough to get the 'ball' out of the lever, then used a small drift and a hammer to get the cable out of the caliper housing." Although they're fine, after the years it's not a bad idea to replace them. Cables here if needed. Since you'll have it off and you're going to get it powdercoated you'll most likely need to take the boot off, in which case it may also just be a good idea to replace them while you have the caliper off. Boots HERE, one for both side (MINI doesn't sell the seal, just the boot). Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks guys!
I do have a question: Is it OK to leave the springs on the rear calipers when powder-coating?
Got back from being away from Barnaby for 2 weeks and driving a rental car. It feels AWESOME to be back in my car again. Spa session is in store for Barnaby this week. Then thinking about plasti dipping my wheels gold for a little while.
I do have a question: Is it OK to leave the springs on the rear calipers when powder-coating?
I would take them off. Otherwise they will be baked on and if you ever want to pop the spring off again it will be painted on. Tape off all moving parts before powder coating or have the powder coater tape off before paint.
There are rubber boots and seals inside those calipers, powdercoating isn't recommended unless you're totally disassembling the calipers. I would recommend using a painted on enamel paint such as G2 caliper paint.
Today I swapped out the junky plastic low beam connectors with ceramic ones and polished the headlight lenses. Basically putting off buying the right set of projector headlights and HIDs for another few months.
There are rubber boots and seals inside those calipers, powdercoating isn't recommended unless you're totally disassembling the calipers. I would recommend using a painted on enamel paint such as G2 caliper paint.
Yeah, I understand now about the boots and seals. In fact, I've got my rear calipers fully disassembled and will do the same to the fronts tonight.
I have new boots and seals on order. Get rid of the old rubber.
I think I'm going to stick with powder coating. Seems to me that it's more durable. Plus, I don't trust myself to paint them. They would probably start chipping right away.
Dry morning, 17 degrees, sunshine, had to go into town, took Mini. Call it a battery maintenance run, 9 miles on back roads to Interstate, then 17 miles blending with 80-84 mph traffic. At least there wasn't very much traffic at 9 am and I made sure I wasn't the fastest thing on the road. The Roadster is extremely steady at speed on highway. Amazes me how it performs with the short wheelbase.
Got a couple of quick errands done, then home on back roads before temperatures climbed enough to get the snow melting and wetting the roads in town. Dry all the way back and home by around noon. Just have some dust to rinse off the car tomorrow when the temperature gets up above freezing. Should get up to 34-36 degrees by afternoon, so I might have a window to rinse off the dust and dry the car before it re-freezes.
I loaded Rupert with a mobile recording rig, mics and stands and some makeshift acoustic treatment to do a couple days of voice over narration for a documentary film at the talent's home.
She's a bit of a gear head and loved that I pulled up in a MINI!
Dry morning, 17 degrees, sunshine, had to go into town, took Mini. Call it a battery maintenance run, 9 miles on back roads to Interstate, then 17 miles blending with 80-84 mph traffic. At least there wasn't very much traffic at 9 am and I made sure I wasn't the fastest thing on the road. The Roadster is extremely steady at speed on highway. Amazes me how it performs with the short wheelbase.
Got a couple of quick errands done, then home on back roads before temperatures climbed enough to get the snow melting and wetting the roads in town. Dry all the way back and home by around noon. Just have some dust to rinse off the car tomorrow when the temperature gets up above freezing. Should get up to 34-36 degrees by afternoon, so I might have a window to rinse off the dust and dry the car before it re-freezes.
Hope we get more of this dry cold weather...
Forgot you have the JCW tuning kit. how do you like it ?
Forgot you have the JCW tuning kit. how do you like it ?
My signature may give a hint!
I almost didn't buy this car because it had the JCW tuning kit on it. Was going to go home and think about it, until the price came down again. I was figuring it would be too noisy at cruise and with the minimal roadster rag top and would get tiring fast. Well, it is noisier than normal, but it's really a very well tuned exhaust note and I really love the sound. Wife even likes it, so it's gotta be good!
On cruise, at any highway speed it doesn't make that much noise. I find the car fairly quiet, for a roadster. Totally glad I bought this one. Best fun bang for the buck I've driven in quite some time. And the fuel economy is way better than I could have imagined, with all this "tuning". Not a fan of gas hogs. This car had been getting economy car fuel mileage. So a great twofer that keeps the grin going every time I get in and push that little button to the right of the steering wheel.
I would have bought it knowing someone put the extra factory bits on. They are hard to find. Not too may people have that kit, so it really rare on a R59 also. You will hear it more on the R59 like a R59 JCW because you have less interference with the rear of the car. Bet top down running hard is a blast. Have you gone through a tunnel. I have a R58 JCW and the R52 Cooper JCW sound kit and both sound like a blast. Keep that sport button pushed in and it should pop more.
I would have bought it knowing someone put the extra factory bits on. They are hard to find. Not too may people have that kit, so it really rare on a R59 also. You will hear it more on the R59 like a R59 JCW because you have less interference with the rear of the car. Bet top down running hard is a blast. Have you gone through a tunnel. I have a R58 JCW and the R52 Cooper JCW sound kit and both sound like a blast. Keep that sport button pushed in and it should pop more.
Top down in the R59, the JCW kit is definitely at its very best. Haven't had the chance to go through a tunnel yet, but I'm sure the reflected sound is going to amplify that exhaust note by a lot. The sport button makes the JCW kit a perfect addition... the pops and blats are like icing on the cake.
I had not really done research on anything JCW and figured that Cooper or an S was just fine. That's why I centered my search on these when I spent any time looking for a Mini, so I was not familiar about JCW add ons or JCW models. I knew the specs, but I figured a JCW was well beyond what I would want to own.
I'm really glad that the dealer was seemingly desperate to sell that roadster before Winter set in. The JCW badge on the engine cover gave me pause. Now that I've lived with the car for a couple of months, I'd definitely install the kit. Totally rounds out Mini's sporty character and supposedly adds a few ponies, so not a bad choice at all.
Now thats a nice looking roadster. I don't usually like them to be honest but thats a nice one. COOL!!
Thanks! The Roadsters aren't everyone's cup of tea for sure. This one isn't a daily driver, so no need for passenger or load capacity. My favorite Mini is still the hardtop, especially the R53 but being married, I had to make those compromises to finally get a Mini!!! This compromise was really easy to make.
Top down in the R59, the JCW kit is definitely at its very best. Haven't had the chance to go through a tunnel yet, but I'm sure the reflected sound is going to amplify that exhaust note by a lot. The sport button makes the JCW kit a perfect addition... the pops and blats are like icing on the cake.
I had not really done research on anything JCW and figured that Cooper or an S was just fine. That's why I centered my search on these when I spent any time looking for a Mini, so I was not familiar about JCW add ons or JCW models. I knew the specs, but I figured a JCW was well beyond what I would want to own.
I'm really glad that the dealer was seemingly desperate to sell that roadster before Winter set in. The JCW badge on the engine cover gave me pause. Now that I've lived with the car for a couple of months, I'd definitely install the kit. Totally rounds out Mini's sporty character and supposedly adds a few ponies, so not a bad choice at all.
Once you get to a tunnel with the top down and zero to little cars , rev up and it will make you smile, press the sport button and its music to your ears.
01-03-2016, 08:15 AM
They would probably start chipping right away.
going every time I get in and push that little button to the right of the steering wheel.