Kumho autox tire pressures - baseline?
#1
Hey guys, hoping someone can hook me up... Just got my car last week and first autox is this Sunday and I was looking for a good baseline for pressures that seem to be working for the MCS. I've autoxed for several years, having skipped last year but have always been FWD... last car I think I was running 36F / 39R I think (TypeR) and would probably start a few pounds more all around just to be sure (easier to bleed off pressure than grab the tank of air all day. But if I could get any feedback from those who have already done some ground work would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Jeff
03 MCS #39GS
Kumho Ecsta V700, 205/45/16's on AK knockoffs
Thanks!
Jeff
03 MCS #39GS
Kumho Ecsta V700, 205/45/16's on AK knockoffs
#3
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#9
I just received two new 205/45 16 Ecsta V700's from TireRack to replace two very corded Ecstas, and I also received an 'Ecsta V700 Installation and Use' guide that I do not remeber from my initial order. In the guide, under inflation pressures, it states-
"The Ecsta V700 will work well in most cars with inflation pressures between 35 and 40 psi ("cold" inflation preessures autocross use and "hot" inflation for racing use). Cars that are light, well balanced and relatively easy on tires will find slightly lower pressures may work for them, while heavy, high horsepower cars that are generally harder on tires may find that they need slightly higher inflation pressures.
Generally adding air pressure in small increments (2psi) to the tires on the end of the car that loses traction first works best. For example, if a car is understeering, add pressure to the front tires. If the car is oversteering, add pressure to the rear tires."
Hope this helps- as for my pressures I use 45 hot all around while my co-driver uses 45f/40r. My style is smooth and his is 'pitch and catch'
_________________
<IMG SRC="http://www.teambodega.com/autoxgalle....jpg"> MC IB/W Sport, Premium, SSR Comps, Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions
"The Ecsta V700 will work well in most cars with inflation pressures between 35 and 40 psi ("cold" inflation preessures autocross use and "hot" inflation for racing use). Cars that are light, well balanced and relatively easy on tires will find slightly lower pressures may work for them, while heavy, high horsepower cars that are generally harder on tires may find that they need slightly higher inflation pressures.
Generally adding air pressure in small increments (2psi) to the tires on the end of the car that loses traction first works best. For example, if a car is understeering, add pressure to the front tires. If the car is oversteering, add pressure to the rear tires."
Hope this helps- as for my pressures I use 45 hot all around while my co-driver uses 45f/40r. My style is smooth and his is 'pitch and catch'
_________________
<IMG SRC="http://www.teambodega.com/autoxgalle....jpg"> MC IB/W Sport, Premium, SSR Comps, Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions
#12
I did a not very aggressive autox on full tread and noticed some wear down the center, I was running 41 lbs. cold. I then lowered the pressure and used them on the street for a week doing some wheel spin every once in awhile to shave them down a bit. It seemed to take some tread off.
My question is how and why did yours cord and what type of wear have you experienced.
Thanks,
Bill
My question is how and why did yours cord and what type of wear have you experienced.
Thanks,
Bill
#13
My Kuhmos have been co dirven in at least 7 events and some events it has been tri-driven. In addition, I attended Phase I & II evolution driving school this spring. With the lack of front camber they lasted probally over 150 runs. I am flipping the 2 tires that have not been corded, and purchased 2 new ones. By flipping the tires their life will be extended. I would not reccomend R compunds for the street, but I have driven R compounds to an autocross and smoked a Rustang GT on an on-ramp in a 1.6l Miata.
#14
I ended up getting Kuhmos 205/45/16 instead of Hoosiers to save some cash... I heat cycled them myself and left them at full tread depth...
Started out with 46 psi front and 44 psi rear... Worked ok but I droped down to 45 front and 43 rear and was happy with the change... (better rotation) then I ran out of runs... 45 seems close to optimal up front I may drop a pound or 2 in the rear... perhaps in the front too.... I have a 2 day divisional in 2 weeks giving me more runs to experiment with...
Started out with 46 psi front and 44 psi rear... Worked ok but I droped down to 45 front and 43 rear and was happy with the change... (better rotation) then I ran out of runs... 45 seems close to optimal up front I may drop a pound or 2 in the rear... perhaps in the front too.... I have a 2 day divisional in 2 weeks giving me more runs to experiment with...
#15
#16
I really wanted to go with Hoosires right away but $$$ was an issue with having to buy wheels too... I have driven the r compound Michelin Pilot sport Cup tires (sucked!!!) Kuhmos (good but not Hoosires) and Hoosires... about 1 or 2 seconds better than the rest!!
If I can get som contingency from the SeDiv series I might mount up some Hoosires for Nats and a few pratice events before that.
Jason
If I can get som contingency from the SeDiv series I might mount up some Hoosires for Nats and a few pratice events before that.
Jason
#17
After running a full season last and two events this year, I have settled up 33f/39r on V700's (205/40R17). The extra pressure out back greatly helps in getting the back to rotate mid-turn. We picked up on this trait with the dealership's SCCA showroom stock Cooper. In that series we were running something on the order of 36f/50r (seriously) on 16" Hoosiers.
I have decided that when the time comes, I will switch to 215/40R17's to go back to stock diameter. The theory with the current size was that the smaller diameter and stock width wouldn't hurt cornering and should help acceleration. Unfortunately, with no LSD, I think I want to slow the front wheels down a bit (I suppose I could just try to remember that the right pedal has more than two positions! ) to reduce wheelspin exiting the really tight corners.
I have decided that when the time comes, I will switch to 215/40R17's to go back to stock diameter. The theory with the current size was that the smaller diameter and stock width wouldn't hurt cornering and should help acceleration. Unfortunately, with no LSD, I think I want to slow the front wheels down a bit (I suppose I could just try to remember that the right pedal has more than two positions! ) to reduce wheelspin exiting the really tight corners.
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