Have any of the track drivers switched to stainless steel brake lines? Did it do anything besides lighten the wallet?

I'm not satisfied with the feel of my brake pedal after hard use. I just got back from a weekend at the track that is the hardest on brakes of the places I run. Things weren't bad, and the fluid held up well (Motul RBF600), but the pedal still got soft as the day went on. Would SS lines really help?

Someone took a pyrometer to the brakes on an MCS that was out there, and it topped out the gauge at over 750° F. I didn't get a reading on mine, though, but I'd guess they were close to that.

After a rest stop, the pads would come back, but the pedal would remain a bit "mushy".

And, I have to deal with a possibly fubar-ed bleeder valve on one of the rear calipers.

 

I've yet to track the car, but I am notoriously hard on my brakes. The first set of OEM fronts had to be replaced after 15k miles. I also drive the stop and go LA traffic. I replaced the brake lines with SS and Super Blue and I have yet to feel the brakes fade on me. An overall consistent pedal response, time after time.

I just did the same to my wife's JCW which were really mushy no matter what and the difference was significant and instant. For the better. Hope that helps.

 

I put on stainless lines a while back. They won't do anyting for brake fade. They do give a bit firmer pedal feel. I found that powerslot frozen rotors helped with brake fade. I am using them with Hawk pads, and have had good results.

 

Stainless steel lines exist mainly to help prevent rust from forming in your lines. Standard brake fluid will pull moisture from the air, which will happen a tiny bit any time you open the brake reservoir.

Using steel braided flex lines can help your brake pressure some. Less expansion when you jump on the brakes.

 

Snid

I am not sure I totally agree with all of the above. With regard to a soft pedal, the expansion of OEM brake lines is a factor. I would switch to steel braided lines (they are not that expensive), I believe this will help your fade issue.

 

I come looking for iformation on these forums and it sucks.... ss brake lines will do barely anything to the feel of your pedal, but is more less adding safety factor for a track car whos temperatures are higher and the requirement for brakes not to fail is of the utmost importance. (yes older rubber lines can crack and result in your brakes failing) THE END.

 

I think there may be some confusion in terms here - I think some people are thinking he means the hard steel lines, others assume its to replace the rubber lines at the calipers.

Either way, I doubt changing the rubber lines will have much if any effect on the conditions described unless the original lines are old or damaged.

But it can't hurt to try, and they're not that expensive.....

I think the OP would be better served to try and get more cooling to his front brakes, either with ducts or different rotors to solve his mushy pedal.

and to "Cammer", there are all sorts of folks on this board, some more experienced than others. I would think for your first post you could do better than come in and slam the forum just cause one post in one topic didn't meet your high standards.

 

MINIdave, Sorry for the slamming, but I figure people would choose to post nothing than post misguiding information. And I have been referring to this forum for a lot of things since becoming a used Mini owner (over a year ago), and it has been difficult to find very helpful information. There is too much talk about dealer warranty bla bla bla and not enough of real enthousiasts dealing with problems and finding ways to tune their Minis independently.

I have had a lot of experience in the automotive/performance/racing industry and ss brake lines are always referred to as the replacement to the flexible rubber lines that run between the hardlines and the calipers. Other than that, MINIDave has provided value added information to this thread for anyone who is curious about dealing with brake fade. The differences between a stock Mini and a purebred racecar are: fluid with a much higher boiling point, size of rotors and calipers (larger, more surface area), compound of rotors and pads for maximum friction, brakes lines (ss for safety factor and less spoungy feel) and A LOT of cooling (usually carbon brake ducts routing air from the front or underside of the car to the inner part of the rotor where it will be directed into the vanes and out the outter circumference of the rotor) cooling does not happen on the surface of the rotor, but from its core. Also, maybe a larger master cylinder for more pressure if running a tire with more grip etc etc.

 

There you go, you just provided a ton of good information!

What sort of things are you looking for? Maybe we can direct you to the proper threads as there is a huge wealth of knowledge on this forum.