Has anyone done their clutch yet, and did you go back with the OEM or upgraded to another clutch? Looking at going back w/ the OEM and a new flywheel (figure at 100k safe bet to have it on hand, along w/ rear main seal). Interested in what others have gone back with and how they are performing.

I've been searching the forums, but haven't seemed to find exactly what I"m looking for. Have a 2015 MCS w/ JCP Pro Exhaust (haven't upgraded anything else), and about to rollover 100K on the odometer. Been having some clutch issues, and dealer said the throw out bearing is going. So I'm planning to tackle it myself and hopefully save some major coin. Granted haven't seen any videos out there. Heavily relied on Mod Mini's channel when we did my daughters head gasket and clutch on her R53. Hoping to film and photograph to put together a how to for YouTube channel.

Thanks! Sean

 

Going through the same thing but I'm only at 40K miles. I threw on a stage 2 Evolve tune on my '15 F56 S and my clutch is slipping in every gear. Amazingly, not much info on clutch replacement/upgrades out there. More amazingly is the fact that others with staged tunes aren't on here complaining about the need to upgrade their clutches.

Found three vendors: JMTC, Helix and Spec

They each have up-rated units but I'm very leery of having an unacceptably heavy effort clutch. There is a member with an F56, on here, that I can't get a hold of - Emilio. In a thread, he mentions he installed, or was installing, a Clubman JCW clutch as an upgrade. I thought that was interesting if possible.

One last possibility is a up-rated unit from SACHS and I'm waiting to hear back from them to see if this will fit my S. It's advertised to hold an extra 15% additional torque compared to the stock unit. I'm not sure that it's enough for what I need though. I don't want to find out it wasn't enough and have to go back in and replace it with something else.

SACHS:



Helix:



Spec:



JMTC:



*Edit*

South Bend Clutch

Clutch Masters

 

I use since 3 years a upgraded LUK kit covering 300hp/410nM to full satisfaction.


https://www.facebook.com/f56.shiva/photos/a.1569909749893124/1674232342794197/?type=3&theater

 

Thank you. Do you have a link?

 

Just received a reply from SACHS. Apparently they can build a custom clutch for us:

Hello Mr. Bachman,


thanks for your inquiry for a ZF Race Engineering SACHS Performance clutch.


Unfortunately, ZF Sachs Performance don´t offer any reinforced/Performance-clutches for your


MINI
MINI (F56)
Cooper S
141 kW / 192 PS
1998 ccm
12/2013 -
Motorcode B46 A20 A
But we can build a custom-made item for you, based on a new original LuK clutch kit. The clutch disc will get a new special
organic friction material. With this kind of modification, the transmittable torque is about 15% higher, in conjunction
with excellent durability and life span.

Because this kit is based on the original clutch, you can easily replace it 1:1 against your old clutch and it will fit to your
flywheel without any modifications. This clutch will be manufactured on demand, so please calculate with 5-7 working days
for the delivery...


You can easily order here:


https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/...ch-624396800-s


Should you have any further questions, please don´t hesitate to contact us at any time.

Kind Regards from Hamburg, Germany


Bodo Engemann



[size=3][size=3][size=3]S-Performance GmbH Managing Directior[/size][/size][/size][size=3][size=3][size=3][size=3]Buxtehuder Str. 112b Bodo Schürmann[/size][/size][/size][/size]
[size=3][size=3][size=3][size=3]21073 Hamburg[/size][/size][/size][/size]


[size=3][size=3][size=3][size=3]Phone: +49 (0)40 3999 2118 District Court Hamburg
Fax: +49 (0)40 3999 2119 Regist.-Certificate: 136474
EMail: [/size][size=3]info@sachsperformance.com[/size][size=3] VAT-ID: DE275815907 [/size][/size][/size][/size]
[size=3][size=3][size=3][size=3]Netz: https://www.sachsperformance.com[/size][/size][/size][/size]

 

I upgraded to the Helix organic clutch and SMF kit from Lohen. Took some time to get it through customs and into the US. Personally, I don't find the clutch to be too heavy at all and I daily drive the car around the NYC area. It has a noticeably stiffer pedal feel compared to the stock setup, but I got used to it very quickly... to the point where I've described it as having an almost OEM pedal feel to friends (but they've disagreed with me )

 

This is good information! If you feel OK dailying a Helix in NYC traffic, I'm sold.

May I ask if the kit also contained new flywheel bolts? Also, did the new, lighter flywheel make a difference over our stock dual-mass units? Rev-hang is not that bad but I'd prefer it to spin down a little quicker.

 

Regarding the flywheel bolts: I'm not sure. Kit was delivered straight to my shop and I never saw all that came in it. Lohen lists the package as including drive plate, pressure plate, flywheel, and release bearing. Your best bet would be to contact them directly.

Regarding the lighter flywheel: I can't really give you a great answer on this. I was without my car for over two months getting the engine replaced (long story, not tune related). While it was getting repaired, I had the clutch done along with LSD and some other mods. Given that I didn't drive the car for two months and then came back to the lightened flywheel and uprated clutch, it's hard to give you a fair comparison. I think it made a bit of a difference but it's not a huge difference as far as I can tell. I'd really need to drive a stock setup followed by mine to give a better comparison.

 

But we can build a custom-made item for you, based on a new original LuK clutch kit. The clutch disc will get a new special
organic friction material. With this kind of modification, the transmittable torque is about 15% higher, in conjunction
with excellent durability and life span.

Iam using the kit since 3 year, while the original clutch perform like a rubber sling, the reinforced takes the plus of tourqe. Combined with a lightend flywheel ,/7 kgs and stronger engine mounts
a complete different feel, the car does not accelerate it jumps forwards.

 

Great info on some clutch options. Looking at Lohen's site their Helix clutch kit looks about the same price as an OEM clutch kit and flywheel (that is if my BP to $ is correct). If my clutch can hold out a little while longer, might go with the Helix. But the throw-out bearing is making a lot of racket, might have to go back with OEM. Think I've pushed it too long.

 

Thanks for posting the useful information.

 

Went with the Lohen organic clutch kit by Helix that'll hold up to 500nm (370ft lbs). Ordered it on Saturday afternoon and it arrived from the UK on Tuesday. Saving up for a Wavetrac differential before tackling this.

 

Just finished upgrading mine with the Helix Clutch kit from Lohen, Quaife LSD, and PowerFlex control arm bushings and lower motor mount. I was pretty impressed with how quickly it arrived from across the pond, and how well the parts were protected. Had a Valeo kit for my daughters R53 that was just dropped into a box w/ a piece of plastic, wasn't happy with that one. Granted, you will get an import duty from Fedex (or who completed delivery in US) but was about $35. Did the install myself and took video of the process (not sure how that is going to turn out).
I am no mechanic or automotive technician by any stretch of the imagination. Completed the install last week, but after a test drive figured I must have done something wrong. The clutch was super grabby in 1st gear and reverse. So, took the transmission back out to recheck, and also installed a new slave cylinder. Still real grabby in 1st and reverse; but figure I need to bed the clutch in and get used to the single mass flywheel vs the dual mass. Pedal feels good, and I'm not smelling the clutch burning, so figure I'm good to go. Man, took the car out and barked the tires in 1st gear w/out even trying.

 

What differential bearings did you use?

 

I bought mine from Way Motor Works here is the link.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/differ...6-f57-f60.html

 

Yeah...I noticed he hid the part number on the bearings so I can't cross reference them. I don't blame him though. It's been difficult to locate the proper part number. I did find one thread on here and he posted the part number for the race and not the roller bearing assembly: LM503310

It could be this Timken part number but I'm not comfortably sure.

$22 each on Amazon

$22 each on Amazon

and the SKF Version from Summit for $23. I should just stop being cheap and buy it from Way and be done with it.

 

What clutch alignment tool did you use?

 

Bought a universal kit from NAPA. I'll try to post a pick of the kit with part number when I get home tonight.

 

Really appreciate it. There must be a dozen different BMW/Mini sizes.

Did you replace any seals and reuse any bolts?

 

Here is the clutch alignment tool. It is NAPA #2420.
I replaced the rear main crankshaft seal and bought new flywheel bolts (got from MINI parts department).

 

Thanks again for the information. Hope you post your videos. What was the most difficult part of the clutch and differential install? Do you have any tips? I'm not looking forward to it.

 

It is going to be a good bit before I can edit everything and hopefully have a decent video.

To me the hardest part was getting the transmission mated back to the engine. Having the harbor freight transmission jack was a big help in lowering the subframe and transmission, and with raising the back up. There is a pretty decent YouTube video from a young guy (milanmistracci) doing the LSD in a R56 ( ).

 

Ok- got my order from Lohen- Helix clutch kit and Quaife LSD. Also opted for their install kit, which included fluid, a few seals and bolts. Thanks folks here for the info & recommendations. Went with Helix as it includes a somewhat lightened flywheel, but priced a few hundred bucks less than Clutchmasters. I guess Lohen worked with Helix on the design / specs, so I felt like they probably knew what they're doing. And it appears Lohen installs an awful lot of them.

Took about 4 days to arrive from the UK. Brought it all down to Jan @ RMW in Anaheim. First catch- the clutch didn't come with an alignment tool! Kinda silly. Would sure save a lot of headaches to just toss that little bit of plastic in there!

Anyway, now it's in, and a couple hundred miles on the road. I love this clutch! Pedal feel is slightly LIGHTER than my stock S. Engagement maybe slightly higher, dunno if this will change because it's not self-adjusting? Anyway, not an issue. Drivability is so much better than stock. I didn't realize- the stock clutch disk is solid, not sprung. The only dampening is the rubber on the stock dual-mass flywheel. Which basically sucks. The Helix has the typical metal springs on the disk. Engagement is much, much smoother than stock ever was. Both from a stop, and between gears. Less lurching. Less drama if I don't perfectly engage. Just so much better.

It holds my power no problem. I'm on a stage 1 tune with IC & exhaust.

And the slightly lightened flywheel is very welcome too. It's easier to rev when engaging, and more responsive between gears. It's not a night-and-day difference like an aluminum flywheel, but just feels really, really natural in the car. This is how it should have come from the factory. The clutch now simply gets out of my way, and lets me drive the car well. That's probably the best you can ask of any clutch.

Briefly on the Quaife LSD- wonderful as well. It's something you only experience when driving hard, but really changes the car into a something that performs. I'd say that without a doubt, if you do any driving at 8/10ths and up, you gotta do clutch & LSD together while the tranny is out. Don't consider doing one without the other.

 

How did the clutch you ended up purchasing work out with that tune? Also...do you have any HP and Torque numbers for your Mini with the stage 2 evolve tune. I am looking at throwing that tune on mine and just curious what the numbers are like as they only post stage 1 numbers.

 

Mateen at Evolve stated the stage 2 makes between 80-85 hp at the wheels. He never did tell me the torque numbers.