So, I was just curious if anyone else was experiencing this, or if this is normal?

Usually a 1 foot drop from the open position of the hood is sufficient to latch the hood completely.

In my car, though, this latches the Passenger's side (apparently), but not the driver's side. In order for the hood to fully latch and lock, I have to give the hood a bit of a push down from the 1 foot position a light "slam" rather than just letting it go and allowing the hood's weight and gravity to do the job, is this normal?

 

Mine is just like that - latches perfectly.

I think your hood/latch might need an adjustment.
Ask your selling dealer and see what they say.

 

Hmm, mine latched fine the one time I opened it and closed it with the 1 foot drop. Haven't had much reason to keep opening it since =)

I'm assuming you've heard the warnings of not pressing down on the hood itself, as the metal is pretty thin there to meet Euro pedestrian safety standards and you can deform the hood easily.

I'd have the dealership take a look while they're fixing the all the other little issues I'm guessing all us Justa owners are headed in for (engine stall, weepy wiper duct)!

 

Yeah, It was a couple of weeks before I had the urge to take a look at the engine, no reason to open it apart from being curious as to what the engine looked like. And that's when I found the latching issue. I tried a few times then, and each time it won't latch with a simple drop.

Since then, out of curiosity I've opened it in cooler weather thinking it might have made a difference, and nope, still have to add a bit of oomph to the drop in order to get it to latch.

And you're right, weeping wiper ducts will be on the list of things for the service dept to look at. I'll be taking it in for my first (post break in) oil change soon, likely dropping it off since I have other things that need looking at as well.

 

You may have messed up your latch by pushing down. My MA showed me that the new hoods should drop and latch automatically. They specifically told me not to put ANY pressure on the hood or it could bend the latch. They already had two of their demo car hoods ruined due to people slamming or pushing the hood shut. I hope that did not happen to you!

 

I never pushed down the hood, or "slammed it" per se, merely aided gravity to latch it. But thanks for that info... Hopefully the service center can help "correct" whatever was wrong.

 

My selling dealer somehow gave me a lengthy lecture(?) on how to close the hood when I was buying mine (and I didn't even ask for it!). They specifically warned me NOT to apply any force, just let the gravity do the work from about a foot high. I wonder if not following that exact method will cause a damage to the hood or its latching system.

 

Well, mine never latched appropriately to begin with from the start, so whatever was "wrong" was wrong from the start. :-(

 

The manufacturer recommends a chest high drop to close properly (like in the newer BMW models). If, for any reason, the hood does not completely latch, you MUST double pull the release lever and try again from chest high. NEVER push down or apply force to the hood to close. I know that the Motoring Advisors have been instructed to be very clear about this during delivery (and re-delivery) of the vehicle.

And yes, pushing down on the hood will dent or deform the hood panel and/or affect the latch mechanisms.

*Note: I use the term "hood" here, instead of bonnet, because (if you were not already aware) when US bound MINIs arrive at the VDC they are taught "American" terminology.

 

You'll have to pay for that oil change. The dealer won't do it under warranty until it warns you or a year.

 

This worked perfectly! Chest high. Awesome, in that case it was user error on my part.

Yeah, knew going in that I'd be paying out of pocket for my ****-retentiveness about "more than recommended oil changes." I have on good recommendation a local MINI specialist who I'm going to use for the off-maintenance service, especially when I found out the local (well-recommended dealer service center charges $155!!!! for oil changes)

 

There is a service action for the wiper ducts.

SUBJECT

Washer Fluid Leaks from Front Washer Jets

MODEL

F56 (Cooper, Cooper S)

Produced from October 31, 2013 to April 15, 2014

SITUATION

When operating the rear window washer, washer fluid leaks from the front windshield washer nozzles.

CAUSE

Design issue with the windshield washer system

CORRECTION

Install a pressure damper in the front windshield washer hose.

 

Glad that worked!! YAY!!