F55/F56/F57 Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for F55/F56 MINI Cooper AND Cooper S models.

Purge Valve Removal?

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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 01:29 PM
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Purge Valve Removal?

Trying to get the purge value off. Electrical connector is fin but he two hoses are not coming off. I feel like if I pull any harder the lines going in or out are going to get damage. Any thoughts? Do these just pull and press in or should I be twisting?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 03:45 PM
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If you are facing the car/reaching into the engine bay to do the work:

The connector to your left has a rectangular pushbutton that you can see. Push the button in until the line releases from the valve under reasonable (not crazy) pull.

The connector to your right has a round ring, textured, that you squeeze. Squeeze on the textured areas (you'll figure it out, they are opposite each other, that's where your fingers go) until the line releases from the valve under reasonable (not crazy) pull.

The hard part is you're going to feel like it will never actually release. The easy part is that when they do release, you'll go "oh, duh." Different locking mechanism on each line, but both use locking mechanisms, and that's why you yanking on them doesn't get them loose.

What year and trim level is your F5x?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cjv2
If you are facing the car/reaching into the engine bay to do the work:

The connector to your left has a rectangular pushbutton that you can see. Push the button in until the line releases from the valve under reasonable (not crazy) pull.

The connector to your right has a round ring, textured, that you squeeze. Squeeze on the textured areas (you'll figure it out, they are opposite each other, that's where your fingers go) until the line releases from the valve under reasonable (not crazy) pull.

The hard part is you're going to feel like it will never actually release. The easy part is that when they do release, you'll go "oh, duh." Different locking mechanism on each line, but both use locking mechanisms, and that's why you yanking on them doesn't get them loose.

What year and trim level is your F5x?
It's a 2016 S model. I finally got it off. Electrical connector came off no problem. I pulled the left line out with brute force without yanking anything. The right side...now that you mentioned squeezing it...I pulled hard enough where I probably sqeezed it inadvertently. No CEL so I'm assuming I didn't damage either of the two lines....Hopefully lol.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kramerv
It's a 2016 S model. I finally got it off. Electrical connector came off no problem. I pulled the left line out with brute force without yanking anything. The right side...now that you mentioned squeezing it...I pulled hard enough where I probably sqeezed it inadvertently. No CEL so I'm assuming I didn't damage either of the two lines....Hopefully lol.
Hopefully! And yeah, you probably handled the right one just fine for sure. The spots you would instinctively grab are pretty much what you squeeze to release the lock.

If you got a click -- whether audible, tactile, or both -- when you plugged each line back in during reassembly, you're definitely good. Since that line is carrying vapor a good seal is obviously super-important.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 04:23 PM
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For reference. The detail I typed up in my earlier post was for version "A." Don't know whether you have "A" or "B" but guessing "A". My 2017 has "A".

 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cjv2
Hopefully! And yeah, you probably handled the right one just fine for sure. The spots you would instinctively grab are pretty much what you squeeze to release the lock.

If you got a click -- whether audible, tactile, or both -- when you plugged each line back in during reassembly, you're definitely good. Since that line is carrying vapor a good seal is obviously super-important.
Out of curiosity i just took a second look and sure enough I actually snapped the connector on the right so not super snug. Ill have to replace that tomorrow. Ugh.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by kramerv
Out of curiosity i just took a second look and sure enough I actually snapped the connector on the right so not super snug. Ill have to replace that tomorrow. Ugh.
D'oh. That bites. Check out realoem.com to ID the part you need. The connector may not be replaceable without replacing the actual line it is wedded to.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cjv2
D'oh. That bites. Check out realoem.com to ID the part you need. The connector may not be replaceable without replacing the actual line it is wedded to.
Yeah I can see the whole line needs to be done. Good thing is its got the same connector type on the other wnd so i get to be reminded of my idiocy when I pull of that end too.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kramerv
Yeah I can see the whole line needs to be done. Good thing is its got the same connector type on the other wnd so i get to be reminded of my idiocy when I pull of that end too.
Don't beat yourself up too hard. Connectors under the hood on the MINI are a pain in the neck. Let's just say I'm not a fan of the electrical ones -- nonintuitive, fragile, learn both the hard way...
 
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