Seat heater, low output?
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But these, she said "they don't work". But in reading the manual I found that there was "reduced output in Green driving mode" (on cruise control on an uncrowded interstate, why not be in green). So, last night, coming back from dinner, mid mode, seat heater on, her comment was "these are either poor heaters or you need to get them checked out".
I'll still have the dealer check them out, but it looks like I need another way to make toast
#5
I guess everyone has their own thresholds for how hot/cold/sweet/salty/bitter/rough/smooth something is. My threshold is based on my old GTI, "If I don't have to eventually turn it down, it's not hot enough." I can sit on the MINIs seat with heater at max (wearing jeans) eternally. It's never a problem which is the problem.
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If it does bupkis on high, how are you supposed to dial it up?
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Does "done a laser shot" mean the same as "measured the temperature"?
Side note: the red laser diode dot is strictly a pointing mechanism. It does NOTHING to measure the temperature. The IR sensor and optics does that, and would return the same results with or without the laser pointer. Furthermore, unless you know the emissivity of the surface and can adjust the thermometer for it, an IR measurement is only an approximation based upon an assumed emissivity which may or may not (probably not) be appropriate for your particular measurement.
As to the usefulness of measuring the temperature: While you can do that, it's of very limited value since the perception of heat is going to depend on the power dissipated in the heater element and its distribution. To equate dissipated power to temperature requires knowledge of current thermal resistance which, in this case, you don't have. (Think of this as how much heat your butt can absorb for a given temperature rise. The lardasses will take a lot more than the BMI=19 types.) It will also depend on the control mechanism, if any. There are a few ways to govern the dissipated power, both open-loop and closed-loop, and I rather doubt that anyone here knows exactly what's going on.
So go ahead and measure the temperature if you insist, but understand that the results will be essentially meaningless.
Side note: the red laser diode dot is strictly a pointing mechanism. It does NOTHING to measure the temperature. The IR sensor and optics does that, and would return the same results with or without the laser pointer. Furthermore, unless you know the emissivity of the surface and can adjust the thermometer for it, an IR measurement is only an approximation based upon an assumed emissivity which may or may not (probably not) be appropriate for your particular measurement.
As to the usefulness of measuring the temperature: While you can do that, it's of very limited value since the perception of heat is going to depend on the power dissipated in the heater element and its distribution. To equate dissipated power to temperature requires knowledge of current thermal resistance which, in this case, you don't have. (Think of this as how much heat your butt can absorb for a given temperature rise. The lardasses will take a lot more than the BMI=19 types.) It will also depend on the control mechanism, if any. There are a few ways to govern the dissipated power, both open-loop and closed-loop, and I rather doubt that anyone here knows exactly what's going on.
So go ahead and measure the temperature if you insist, but understand that the results will be essentially meaningless.
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As to the usefulness of measuring the temperature: While you can do that, it's of very limited value since the perception of heat is going to depend on the power dissipated in the heater element and its distribution. To equate dissipated power to temperature requires knowledge of current thermal resistance which, in this case, you don't have. (Think of this as how much heat your butt can absorb for a given temperature rise. The lardasses will take a lot more than the BMI=19 types.) It will also depend on the control mechanism, if any. There are a few ways to govern the dissipated power, both open-loop and closed-loop, and I rather doubt that anyone here knows exactly what's going on.
So go ahead and measure the temperature if you insist, but understand that the results will be essentially meaningless.
So go ahead and measure the temperature if you insist, but understand that the results will be essentially meaningless.
Responding to measurement statement: measurement that counts to me is my wife's, namely "your seat heater sucks, might as well not even have it".
#18
My wife doesn't let me drive her car (Grrr!) so I have no firsthand (or firstbutt?) experience, but so far she's had no complaints about the seat heater. She's on the low end of BMI and likes the seats a lot hotter than I can tolerate.
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They seemed pretty warm to me , even in the leather sport seats w/ heating. The Gen 2 MINIs seem to be the hottest and cloth and leather were both hot. Gen 1 MINIs they did not get that hot but compared to the BMW seat of the e34 e46 they are much cooler. In gen 1 MINIs there was even an ad on wire to make them hotter or cooler then stock. I had the hotter ones added in the R52.
Think they went with the goldilocks theory.
Think they went with the goldilocks theory.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Channeled Scablands, WA
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Temps around here are still in the 50+ range so I do not have much demand for their use yet. I did try them out today based on your comments and find they get plenty toasty! As mentioned earlier this is really a personal issue rather than a design/build issue. Having said that, it sure would be great to have a heated steering wheel as part of the Cold Pkg. This really helps the arthritis in the hands during winter!