Electrical ScanGauge II - Anyone ever tried one of these?
#27
Agreed, but this seems to be a cost effect solution if your car did not come with a tempature gauge, and it is easy to use. I am not going to stare at it, but the data logging capabilty would be cool to have, and less expensive than getting a Palm and software.
#29
Hi, thanks for those inputs... yes, I have tried all combinations of off, accessory only, fully on, and ignition (motor on) for up to a minute in each position but the display is the same: Connecting...
I have left in "auto" discover mode as well as forcing "ISO".
There is obviously some power being supplied to the Scangauge for it to be showing anything.
Seems bizarre...
Cheers
I have left in "auto" discover mode as well as forcing "ISO".
There is obviously some power being supplied to the Scangauge for it to be showing anything.
Seems bizarre...
Cheers
#30
#32
I've had mine for a month now and like it. for the time being I've got it located on the dash near the left pillar. It will probably be a problem when the bag goes off but works very well from there as it's out of the way and I can see the the lettering very clearly (I wear glasses). My next option would be to suspend it from the head liner/windsheild next to my radar detector.
#33
Connection issues and the like....
it shouldn't matter what year car you hook up to, as long as it's OBD-II complient, the communication protocal is the same.
For connection issues, the Mini connector is a real PITA. And the fact that the connector is only supported on one end makes it even worse! There have been times when I've done the following to really make sure that everything is good. (and I've had issues with lots of things that plug into the OBD-II port....):
1) Remove knee bolster
2) Slide OBD connector lock back.
3) Press up on OBD connector from below to get it to pop out.
4) Connect just that part into the cable.
Typically, I find that the connector rocks back and forth, and I have to really push to get it to seat.
There is no single fuse for the OBD-II connector. It talks to lots of system and one or more pins go dead when each of these systems goes down. There is a power line there, and if you're clock won't hold time, but runs when the car is on, it may be getting power through the information busses. That did happen to me once. Don't remember the fuse....
Matt
For connection issues, the Mini connector is a real PITA. And the fact that the connector is only supported on one end makes it even worse! There have been times when I've done the following to really make sure that everything is good. (and I've had issues with lots of things that plug into the OBD-II port....):
1) Remove knee bolster
2) Slide OBD connector lock back.
3) Press up on OBD connector from below to get it to pop out.
4) Connect just that part into the cable.
Typically, I find that the connector rocks back and forth, and I have to really push to get it to seat.
There is no single fuse for the OBD-II connector. It talks to lots of system and one or more pins go dead when each of these systems goes down. There is a power line there, and if you're clock won't hold time, but runs when the car is on, it may be getting power through the information busses. That did happen to me once. Don't remember the fuse....
Matt
#34
Sept '02 build 2003 MCS, no issues at all. I use the guage function to watch intake air temperature and pressure (boost), coolant temperature, and vehicle speed. For me, those have been the most useful. It seems to take readings at about 1Hz, so is much more useful for some purposes than the Carchip I also have.
The speedo reads high, right from the showroom floor. The mph signal to the Scangauge II is the actual speed, not the slightly faster reading going to the speedo. Plus, there is a feature to let you adjust for different diameter tires (mine aren't stock) very easily, so you can have a much more accurate speed reading. That's why I have it displaying all the time.
Yes, the Scangauge will easily and instantly reset an engine code if you want it to. I've done so for the P0108 (I think that's it from memory, but the code I set was the one that indicates boost high out of range which trips at 18psig).
The trip computer function will save peak coolant temp, rpm and mph. Sort of fun to check after an autocross run, and an easy way to check your maximum speed in gear at the fuel cutout if you care.
I mounted mine to my sun visor. I used the spring clip from a common sunglasses holder, and attached the Scangauge to it. That puts it very close to my line of sight for quick and easy reading, but it doesn't hang down any lower than a radar detector. It is very light, and doesn't budge at all during autocross runs. I ran the cable up along the A-piller / windshield joint, and used white electrical tape. It's pretty inconspicuous, and invisible from outside unless someone ducks down and looks up at the headliner.
Scott
90SM
The speedo reads high, right from the showroom floor. The mph signal to the Scangauge II is the actual speed, not the slightly faster reading going to the speedo. Plus, there is a feature to let you adjust for different diameter tires (mine aren't stock) very easily, so you can have a much more accurate speed reading. That's why I have it displaying all the time.
Yes, the Scangauge will easily and instantly reset an engine code if you want it to. I've done so for the P0108 (I think that's it from memory, but the code I set was the one that indicates boost high out of range which trips at 18psig).
The trip computer function will save peak coolant temp, rpm and mph. Sort of fun to check after an autocross run, and an easy way to check your maximum speed in gear at the fuel cutout if you care.
I mounted mine to my sun visor. I used the spring clip from a common sunglasses holder, and attached the Scangauge to it. That puts it very close to my line of sight for quick and easy reading, but it doesn't hang down any lower than a radar detector. It is very light, and doesn't budge at all during autocross runs. I ran the cable up along the A-piller / windshield joint, and used white electrical tape. It's pretty inconspicuous, and invisible from outside unless someone ducks down and looks up at the headliner.
Scott
90SM
#36
Sept '02 build 2003 MCS, no issues at all. I use the guage function to watch intake air temperature and pressure (boost), coolant temperature, and vehicle speed. For me, those have been the most useful. It seems to take readings at about 1Hz, so is much more useful for some purposes than the Carchip I also have.
The speedo reads high, right from the showroom floor. The mph signal to the Scangauge II is the actual speed, not the slightly faster reading going to the speedo. Plus, there is a feature to let you adjust for different diameter tires (mine aren't stock) very easily, so you can have a much more accurate speed reading. That's why I have it displaying all the time.
Yes, the Scangauge will easily and instantly reset an engine code if you want it to. I've done so for the P0108 (I think that's it from memory, but the code I set was the one that indicates boost high out of range which trips at 18psig).
The trip computer function will save peak coolant temp, rpm and mph. Sort of fun to check after an autocross run, and an easy way to check your maximum speed in gear at the fuel cutout if you care.
I mounted mine to my sun visor. I used the spring clip from a common sunglasses holder, and attached the Scangauge to it. That puts it very close to my line of sight for quick and easy reading, but it doesn't hang down any lower than a radar detector. It is very light, and doesn't budge at all during autocross runs. I ran the cable up along the A-piller / windshield joint, and used white electrical tape. It's pretty inconspicuous, and invisible from outside unless someone ducks down and looks up at the headliner.
Scott
90SM
The speedo reads high, right from the showroom floor. The mph signal to the Scangauge II is the actual speed, not the slightly faster reading going to the speedo. Plus, there is a feature to let you adjust for different diameter tires (mine aren't stock) very easily, so you can have a much more accurate speed reading. That's why I have it displaying all the time.
Yes, the Scangauge will easily and instantly reset an engine code if you want it to. I've done so for the P0108 (I think that's it from memory, but the code I set was the one that indicates boost high out of range which trips at 18psig).
The trip computer function will save peak coolant temp, rpm and mph. Sort of fun to check after an autocross run, and an easy way to check your maximum speed in gear at the fuel cutout if you care.
I mounted mine to my sun visor. I used the spring clip from a common sunglasses holder, and attached the Scangauge to it. That puts it very close to my line of sight for quick and easy reading, but it doesn't hang down any lower than a radar detector. It is very light, and doesn't budge at all during autocross runs. I ran the cable up along the A-piller / windshield joint, and used white electrical tape. It's pretty inconspicuous, and invisible from outside unless someone ducks down and looks up at the headliner.
Scott
90SM
So it also displays boost? is that in PSI or bar?
thanks
#37
PSI or KPa, degC or degF, miles or km, gallons or liters. Each unit can be individually selected, so you could read temp in Celsius and fuel in gallons if you wanted to.
Note that the guages seem to update at about 1Hz (once per second). This is plenty fast enough for coolant temp, but if you are accelerating hard and the IAT, MPH, MAP, timing and RPM are changing rapidly then the numbers go up in jumps.
During milder acceleration or steady state cruising, then the changes are easier to follow. All of the above would be true for most any numerical readout vs a needle style gauge.
Scott
90SM
Note that the guages seem to update at about 1Hz (once per second). This is plenty fast enough for coolant temp, but if you are accelerating hard and the IAT, MPH, MAP, timing and RPM are changing rapidly then the numbers go up in jumps.
During milder acceleration or steady state cruising, then the changes are easier to follow. All of the above would be true for most any numerical readout vs a needle style gauge.
Scott
90SM
#40
Some questions to those with experience using the SGII, if I may:
1. How do I interpret the timing output? It seems to read positive numbers, so how do I know when it's advancing or retarding, and by how much?
2. It shows MAP pressures that appear to be extremely high (I saw 22psi today.) Is this a MAP sensor problem, or a SGII problem?
thanks for any answers. btw, I love this gauge! It's an OCD's wet dream...
1. How do I interpret the timing output? It seems to read positive numbers, so how do I know when it's advancing or retarding, and by how much?
2. It shows MAP pressures that appear to be extremely high (I saw 22psi today.) Is this a MAP sensor problem, or a SGII problem?
thanks for any answers. btw, I love this gauge! It's an OCD's wet dream...
#41
#44
It can only read...
Matt
#45
#46
188 deg F at the track with he stock IC. All the other aftermarket ICs I tested (and that includes just about all you can name) were higher!
Last edited by dmh; 01-03-2007 at 09:30 AM.
#47
Depending on how you drive..
Hope that helps,
#49