Has anyone been able to update the "Factory I-Level" that is displayed in ISTA/P using BMW Standard Tools in the FRM module? This is important if you ever want to use ISTA/P again, especially when using non-LCI dump (or second-hand module) on an LCI car or vise-versa.

The only way I know to get the "Factory I-Level" (and other meta-data like paint and upholstery codes) correct is by using ISTA/P, but then you have to disconnect the FRM3 when ISTA/P is identifying the car and reconnect it when it wants to do the FRM3 reanimation. It would be nice to explicitly read it from CAS and write it to FRM3.

 

what would be a close used FRM module for 2010 R55 for replacement, pic attached of one that's in car... current one has the no turn signals, no power windows, lights always on, starts up fine...


also whats everyone else using for software would this one work or???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K-DCAN-O...oAAOSwHMJYCDyh


Thanks Kevin

 

Match the part number. if you cannot find a cheaper one with the same part number, get a module with "High EKS - PL3 FRM3R"
Be advised that a newer part number may not be covered in SPDaten V53. but in general, it should still work even if you dont program it.

 

Check you current P/N on RealOEM.
There is all the compatible one (Superseded by /Supersedes)

 

Who has two thumbs and is joining the FRM party?

This guy.

So here's the story. Like many others it starts with a battery replacement nearly two months ago. No crank no start. Battery dead, found negative cable clamp broken in two. Replaced all parts everything seemed peachy.

2-3 weeks ago I noticed my drivers side OEM LED retrofit foglights halo was not lighting up in DRL mode. The passenger side was just fine.

Last week I checked the wiring for said foglights at the FRM where they tap into.

Big Mistake.

I should have remembered there is only 1 wire that goes to the FRM for the LED Fogs and that shouldn't cause 1 light to act different than the other, but hindsight is 20/20 right?

Any who after putting the trim back around the FRM thats when things went sideways.

Headlights stayed on no matter what and right turn signal did not work. After a series of trials I got the headlights to work correctly but turn signal did not work. Removed trim and checked connections. Turn signal now works!

Maybe 2 min later turn signal no longer works again

So I disconnected battery and removed module for about 10 hours. Reinstalled. Turn signals work again!

1-2 min later doesn't work again

Come to find out after a near rear end collision my tail lights and brake lights do not work.

So I take out the FRM again. Check connectors. Removed wires from connector and check each one to make sure they're not too loose. Reinstall and rechecked. Turn signal is back, but tail/brake lights are still a no go.

Then I think maybe all this fried my DEPO LED taillights. Reinstall OEM tail lights (See this is why I keep everything, I'm not a horder. I'm NOT!!) and they work!..... Sort of....

When headlights are on the tail lights light up the bottom half of the assembly. And when the brakes are pressed they light up the top portion of the taillight. So I'm no longer condemning the DEPOs.

So that's where I'm at. No right turn signal and tail lights that work goofy.


So FRM replacement? Can my FRM be REprogrammed? Or is it still a connection issue?

 

do your windows work and what is the year and model?

 

Yes. Everything else works great. '07 R56 S 09/07 build date.

 

usually when the FRM dies, your windows wont work. I think there is something slightly off...check if the pins are all standing and not corroded.

You can use a used FRM with the same options or part number and get it reprogrammed later.

 

I had the FRM out several times. The pins are all perfect and no corrosion to be found. I spent 4 hours on Saturday removing and checking all the wires as well.

 

probably that circuit is dead but not the whole module. Get a used FRM with same options or part number if you can. do you have NCS expert and such software?

 

I don't have any software, but there is always a time to start yes? Any good places to get a used FRM?

 

ebay and car-part.com

 

Sounds like the FRM functions like a car where the brake lights are separated from the tail lights, like an R56 LCI.
Usually a software failure of the FRM means it doesn't do anything anymore, but in this case I think it is still worth a try to code it using NCS Expert. You need to do that anyway if you install a used FRM, so why not try that first? All you need is a K+DCAN cable and some time...

 

well I ordered a used FRM for $100. Same part number from same year car. Did I read correctly that some people have been able to plug these in and they work right away without programming?

 

Any recommendation on a good K+DCAN cable? Or are they all pretty much the same? And I''m NCS dumb, but am willing to give it a crack and learn. Where do I get the software?

 

Could be, there is no authentication such as there is between the engine ECU and CAS, but if there is any coding difference between the donor car and your car, like the in interior light package, puddle lights, xenon etc, you will have to code it to get everything working.
It is also a good idea to code the Vehicle Order and Integration Level, otherwise the car can never be used with ISTA/P anymore.

 

Also, do I need older OS to run the software? I have Windows 10

 

I bought my cable years ago so I can't recommend a particular seller. Most cables come with NCS Expert, but this is most of the time a very old version that doesn't work on 64-bit Windows versions. With more recent versions, Windows 10 should not be a problem although I have always used Windows 7 (64-bit).

There is a sticky thread with all kinds of information, but you might want to check out the R60 thread as well since those links are still working and any software that works with the R60 also works with the R56 in my experience: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3979610

 

Sent my bad frm to luxautoelectronics, reprogrammed it, re installed it, everythings back to normal, no additional reprogramming just plug it in, had no power windows, lights on, etc..., also install new battery, although everything work before new battery, put new battery because won't hold a charge.

 

Hi all,

I'm looking to replace a faulty FRM in an '08 MCS. I've been checking Ebay and I see some for sale from some European sellers (UK mostly). However, the FRMs come from RH drive vehicles but I need to put it in a LH drive car.

Would there be any differences in the RH vs LH drive FRMs? After reading this thread, I know I'd have to have the replacement FRM re-programmed but I dunno if there'd be any physical differences in the mounting of the module itself in the footwell, seeing as though one is for the left side and the other would be for the right side. Any insight would be appreciated, thanks!

 

Who has two thumbs and no more lighting issues?! *This Guy*

Well, except for one little detail. My reverse lights don't work

The used FRM I bought off of Ebay came from Colorado. I installed it right away and everything worked without programming! I assume this must have come out of automatic MINI and that's why my reverse lights do not work. I'll deal with that compared to my other problems.

I'll eventually get around to actually programming this thing, but for now its nice to have everything else working as it should.

Unless.... do I just need to move a wire in the connector to a different pin #? man that would be too easy...

 

The FRM info MUST be an identical copy of the CAS information.
In fact, the FRM info is a CAS backup, so I can't assure you that everything works correctly without:

1) Changing the "new" FRM VIN to the car VIN.
2) Setting the "new" FRM with the same VO configuration stored in your current CAS.

I have made this change in more than 10 MINIs (all of it using used FRMs) without any problem nor functional issues.
In all cases, ALWAYS, by changing the VIN and VO settings prior to driving the car.

Regards

 

After jump starting my car and losing windows turn signals and interior lights I took the car to my local BMW dealer since there's no Mini dealers near me my FRM is bad. After reading all the threads on this I panicked. The people at BMW were great and let me k ow that part has a special extended warranty through mini they will cover cost of repair and labor up to 8 years or 125000 miles. Just a heads up for all since this seems to be a common problem

 

Hi,

I found several references where people were converting the D-flash to an eeprom image. The idea is that you save the d-flash using x-prog (selecting 0 eeprom sectors) and then convert it to an eeprom image. I could not find the programs, so I decided to dive into it myself.

I created the following conversion tool:
http://tlvps.tomvanleeuwen.nl/frm/

I have not tested it with an actual broken FRM yet, but the format seems quite straight-forward. If anything is wrong with it, I guess it will just return an old version of the eeprom image. At least the VIN and the "DEADBEEF" code is at the correct positions...

So feel free to test it and if you use it, please report back if it works.
Remember that I store all uploaded images, if you don't like that just download the source and run the Python script yourself.

Thanks,

Tom

 

Hello MiniToBe,

Thank you for such valuable information on your posts. My husband disconnected the negative cable on the battery to replace the knock sensor and the valve cover on our Mini (Cooper S, 2010, Automatic). When he reconnected the battery and turned the car on, the lights won't come on, including head lights, license plate lights, turn signals; plus the windows' power control won't work. Also, the red lift warning light came on. Is it possible to resurrect the FRM? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!