i just finished installing the DDM Works stainless steel air box.
and MSD Coil Pack.
the install wasn't that bad but a made some modifications to seal the box from a hot engine compartment. i used thermotec aluminized adhesive-backed heat barrier to seal the new air box to the oem bottom.
also i lined the inside of the DDM Works box with the heat barrier material
for thermal shielding. there were some places here and there that coild let heat in so i sealed them with the material too.
over-all it was a very clean install and looks nice.
JSWMCS.

 

So your DFIC is completely insulated? I have been told this is not a good idea...but there it is-covered. Do you have the capacity to measure TE (there seem to be many additional lines in your engine bay, and a scary blue BMW box above the radiator fluid reservior?)
I wish we could get a definitive result on insulating, or not, the IC.
I like the airbox install--very neat! And the rest of your engine bay looks very business-like, indeed.
cheers,

 

Nice install!
I can't really see what you did on the inside of the box, but be careful placing dissimilar metals/metal products together. Eventually the alumium corrosion process will begin (being the weaker metal) unless you have some kind of protective coating applied.

BTW- What is the blue box for?

 

I used the Thermotec Al adhesive shield also on my Alta CAI box but was told to shield the outside of the box, not the inside.

 

Why the outside of the box? Just curious.

 

The intake looks great! nice job!

 

This was suggested by Randy Webb. I am not sure why it would make a difference - maybe keeping heat out of the box but not preventing heat from leaving the box. There is a long thread about insulating the Alta CAI with many posts.

 

Here are some results that VBG posted on insulating his Alta.

More information the following link.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=71139&page=9

VBG vbmenu_register("postmenu_1044494", true);
3rd Gear


Some road test results in cooler temps...
Ok, I've done more testing and gotten more numbers this evening. We had an unexpected period of nice temperatures, about 85 degrees during these tests...

I did 6 runs this time. The procedure was similar to last time:

1) Have thermal insulation installed in CAI airbox.
2) 10-15 minute light warmup...
3) Do a "Timed Run" to measure peak overall horsepower.
4) Then, have thermal insulation removed from CAI airbox.
5) 10-15 minute light warmup...
6) Do a "Timed Run" to measure peak overall horsepower.
7) Cool off.

I used a different spot of road this time, it's a shorter patch of highway, with no signals, more isolated from people and less traffic, pretty nice and safe. It's not a full 1/4 mile so I only go 0-60+, which is sufficient for OHP readings.

The results:

7/17/06@18:10 85(f) 135 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@18:21 85(f) 127 OHP (without insulation)

7/17/06@18:44 85(f) 138 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@18:58 84(f) 127 OHP (without insulation)

7/17/06@19:25 82(f) 140 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@19:38 82(f) 132 OHP (without insulation)

That last with/without run set was my best ever since testing with the GT1 performance computer. The last run with the insulation was a 7.52 second 0-60 run. The last run without the insulation was a 8.42 0-60 run.

As my testing gets more refined and my driving more consistent, I may also start looking at 0-60 times instead of just OHP. I'm probably going to keep this location now for testing. Testing for 1/4 mile isn't practical there, but 0-60+ runs are realistic and handy since 60 mph is also my end-trigger for measuring OHP.

I think I'll change my procedure a bit next time. I'll do 3 runs with the insulation and then do 3 runs without the insulation. This change is mostly to simulate a dyno scenario and provide some better comparisons with them. Among other things, we can then compare the highs and the lows in each 3 run set.

More to come...

Best,

-- Don
__________________
VBG: '06 MCS CRWS
Dealer options: Combos 1,2,3&4, H&K Sound, Armrest, Cockpit Crono,
Lo Jack, Bra, 2 Cup holders, MINI floor mats, 4 Mini-logo valve stem caps
Custom options: Insulated Alta CAI, Alta 15% RP, Cold Plugs, 1-Ball,
Escort 8500 Rad, Escort GT1 Perf, FM MP3 Adapter, 12v Power Station

Remember, what goes around must come down!

 

the intercooler i have is a Mini Madness Water to Air core using samco silicone hoses. i covered the entire intercooler and top,front and sides of the intake manifold with thermotec aluminum heat barrier material. i insulated the inside of the air box for the sake of looks only. i have an ociari scoop that brings fresh air into the air box so it will not hold the heat in therefor i shielded the inside of the air box. i did some testing with an OBBII scanner and a heat temp gun too see what effects these modifications had.
the outside of the intake manifold got to 178 degrees F if the car sat and idled for awhile berfore, after max temp was 109 degrees F. a 69 degree change! pre intercooler was 113 degrees F post intercooler was 89 degrees F. the OBD scanner showed a 40 degree drop in inlet temp. so everything made a big improvement temp wise.this is very important in Arizona where summer temps can average 110 degrees for monthes strait in a row!!
also i couldn't get my intercooler to heat soak anymore!!
i'm happy with the results so far nothing negative to report.
-JSWMCS

 

The blue box is a sun automotime voltage stabilizer.this helps prevent volatge spikes to the sensors on the car. it also helps stabilize the voltage to the injectors, a good thing! i aslo have their hyper ground system.
-JSWMCS

 

Here are other mods i've done to cool things down.
HKS Fan controller set to turn rad fan on at 189F off at 179F. this keeps engine temps around 180F. 180 degree thermastat.
Uber Hood scoop brings lots of cool air into the engine bay.
note i am no longer using the hoodscoop for the intercooler.
because i have a water to air unit.
JSWMCS

 

sorry for the spelling error.
that's SUN AUTOMITIVE VOLTAGE STABILIZER.
JSWMCS

 

Oh And Thanks For The Props Guy's!!
-JSWMCS

 

Resurrecting a super old thread.

I've just ordered a DDM Works CAI. I had thought I wouldn't be able to get a front strut brace, but after seeing these pics, it looks like I can! How does the front strut brace work with strut tower defenders? I have the Cravenspeed STDs on now.

Thanks for any help.

 

I suggest searching a bit for strut bar and intake combos and then making a new thread.

The short is that a few bars fit over most intakes. I got the m7. With defenders, you can run into the bolts being too short to fit the bar. I solved this with camber plates which have new bolts AND protect the towers.