Drivetrain HAI data and interesting findings...
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Ladera Ranch, Ca
Originally Posted by VBG
(Btw, the last result in the results list, the one at 253.6 whp, is evidently a special case -- possibly a typo or joke, otherwise it is extensively modded.)
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Originally Posted by Lexster05
Here's a couple of pics of yesterday's club Dyno run...
To see more pics (or even larger ones)...you can check out my flickr site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lexster...7594201484383/
To see more pics (or even larger ones)...you can check out my flickr site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lexster...7594201484383/
Also, for anyone that is interested, there's a Dyno thread in SCMM that is open to the public for viewing that now contains these two items as well as previous dyno records. It is at http://www.clubscmm.com/board/index....33123#msg33123 .
Best,
-- Don
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Some road test results in cooler temps...
Ok, I've done more testing and gotten more numbers this evening. We had an unexpected period of nice temperatures, about 85 degrees during these tests...
I did 6 runs this time. The procedure was similar to last time:
1) Have thermal insulation installed in CAI airbox.
2) 10-15 minute light warmup...
3) Do a "Timed Run" to measure peak overall horsepower.
4) Then, have thermal insulation removed from CAI airbox.
5) 10-15 minute light warmup...
6) Do a "Timed Run" to measure peak overall horsepower.
7) Cool off.
I used a different spot of road this time, it's a shorter patch of highway, with no signals, more isolated from people and less traffic, pretty nice and safe. It's not a full 1/4 mile so I only go 0-60+, which is sufficient for OHP readings.
The results:
7/17/06@18:10 85(f) 135 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@18:21 85(f) 127 OHP (without insulation)
7/17/06@18:44 85(f) 138 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@18:58 84(f) 127 OHP (without insulation)
7/17/06@19:25 82(f) 140 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@19:38 82(f) 132 OHP (without insulation)
That last with/without run set was my best ever since testing with the GT1 performance computer. The last run with the insulation was a 7.52 second 0-60 run. The last run without the insulation was a 8.42 0-60 run.
As my testing gets more refined and my driving more consistent, I may also start looking at 0-60 times instead of just OHP. I'm probably going to keep this location now for testing. Testing for 1/4 mile isn't practical there, but 0-60+ runs are realistic and handy since 60 mph is also my end-trigger for measuring OHP.
I think I'll change my procedure a bit next time. I'll do 3 runs with the insulation and then do 3 runs without the insulation. This change is mostly to simulate a dyno scenario and provide some better comparisons with them. Among other things, we can then compare the highs and the lows in each 3 run set.
More to come...
Best,
-- Don
I did 6 runs this time. The procedure was similar to last time:
1) Have thermal insulation installed in CAI airbox.
2) 10-15 minute light warmup...
3) Do a "Timed Run" to measure peak overall horsepower.
4) Then, have thermal insulation removed from CAI airbox.
5) 10-15 minute light warmup...
6) Do a "Timed Run" to measure peak overall horsepower.
7) Cool off.
I used a different spot of road this time, it's a shorter patch of highway, with no signals, more isolated from people and less traffic, pretty nice and safe. It's not a full 1/4 mile so I only go 0-60+, which is sufficient for OHP readings.
The results:
7/17/06@18:10 85(f) 135 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@18:21 85(f) 127 OHP (without insulation)
7/17/06@18:44 85(f) 138 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@18:58 84(f) 127 OHP (without insulation)
7/17/06@19:25 82(f) 140 OHP (with insulation)
7/17/06@19:38 82(f) 132 OHP (without insulation)
That last with/without run set was my best ever since testing with the GT1 performance computer. The last run with the insulation was a 7.52 second 0-60 run. The last run without the insulation was a 8.42 0-60 run.
As my testing gets more refined and my driving more consistent, I may also start looking at 0-60 times instead of just OHP. I'm probably going to keep this location now for testing. Testing for 1/4 mile isn't practical there, but 0-60+ runs are realistic and handy since 60 mph is also my end-trigger for measuring OHP.
I think I'll change my procedure a bit next time. I'll do 3 runs with the insulation and then do 3 runs without the insulation. This change is mostly to simulate a dyno scenario and provide some better comparisons with them. Among other things, we can then compare the highs and the lows in each 3 run set.
More to come...
Best,
-- Don
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
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From: Woodside, CA
No matter how you slice it, it's good power.
and don't worry about the 0-60 times. To get good HP runs, you shift into your measurement gear at lower an RPM than you would if you're going for 0-60 runs.... So the times are slower.
Matt
Matt
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 615
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From: Maryland
Thanks for posting these results. May be nice if you started another thread with this info.
Looks like the best bang for the buck is a pulley and free flowing cold air for the engine. Improvements to the exhaust seem to be mostly just noise. Maybe a couple of HP.
Looks like the best bang for the buck is a pulley and free flowing cold air for the engine. Improvements to the exhaust seem to be mostly just noise. Maybe a couple of HP.
Originally Posted by Lexster05
Here's a couple of pics of yesterday's club Dyno run.
Please take into consideration:
1) I was the first to do the test - I was the only one tested in 4th gear
2) the person after me tested in 4th gear for the first 2 runs - he got 168 I believe as his highest..before they decided to switch to testing in 3rd gear..he reran later on and posted 173.6.
3) I have a '06 MCS with 15% pulley and Alta CAI - no other engine mods
I believe since I was tested in 4th gear...the drop from my base run was due to heatsoak - since the engine has more stress to get up to speed in 4th gear.
To see more pics (or even larger ones)...you can check out my flickr site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lexster...7594201484383/
Please take into consideration:
1) I was the first to do the test - I was the only one tested in 4th gear
2) the person after me tested in 4th gear for the first 2 runs - he got 168 I believe as his highest..before they decided to switch to testing in 3rd gear..he reran later on and posted 173.6.
3) I have a '06 MCS with 15% pulley and Alta CAI - no other engine mods
I believe since I was tested in 4th gear...the drop from my base run was due to heatsoak - since the engine has more stress to get up to speed in 4th gear.
To see more pics (or even larger ones)...you can check out my flickr site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lexster...7594201484383/
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
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Originally Posted by VBG
Ok, I guess a lot of us were busy last night... Here's my approach...
Here are the pic descriptions...
1) My Alta CAI with the stock rear partition in place, but cut with a ~5"x~5" window to allow the CAI to breathe.
2) Beginning installation, smaller cut piece in against front wall, paper clip bent into shape and mounted over the back partition and held in place by the rubber seal material
3) Finished product. I guess the best name for it would be a CAI thermal blanket.
It looks a bit crude, but it does make a couple of noticable differences...
The material I'm using is a black corrugated closed cell padding product intended as a sleeping mat for backpackers, 2 pieces cut LARGER than proper fit so it holds itself in place and leaves plenty of room inside. One small piece to fit against the inside front metal wall, the other very large piece to fit against the inside right and left sides and the top of the Alta airbox. The closed-cell padding could be non-corrugated, too, this is just what I happened to have handy. Also needed, 1 large paper clip.
First, to be fair, I have no digital meters to use here. I should probably get one for measuring inside and outsdie temps for real comparisions...
But short of that I can say that the car pulls harder now. It really feels faster, pulls harder, feels more reponsive to the throttle... And not just a little bit. It does this when it is hot outside, and when it is cold outside, as well as when the engine is cold and when the engine is hot. It's like it's letting the pulley do its work now, like the CAI is really working for the first time.
Second, the SC is quieter now. Significantly, perhaps back in line with pre-CAI days for me. I was immediately struck at how nice my 1-ball exaust sounds, something I hadn't really noticed before because I got the CAI, 15% pulley and 1-ball exaust all at the same time. I can still hear the SC, but it is not overpowering at high RPM anymore.
Anyway, that's what's up. I think I'm out of the market for an Alta CAI top now. This is very nice.
-- VBG
Here are the pic descriptions...
1) My Alta CAI with the stock rear partition in place, but cut with a ~5"x~5" window to allow the CAI to breathe.
2) Beginning installation, smaller cut piece in against front wall, paper clip bent into shape and mounted over the back partition and held in place by the rubber seal material
3) Finished product. I guess the best name for it would be a CAI thermal blanket.
It looks a bit crude, but it does make a couple of noticable differences...
The material I'm using is a black corrugated closed cell padding product intended as a sleeping mat for backpackers, 2 pieces cut LARGER than proper fit so it holds itself in place and leaves plenty of room inside. One small piece to fit against the inside front metal wall, the other very large piece to fit against the inside right and left sides and the top of the Alta airbox. The closed-cell padding could be non-corrugated, too, this is just what I happened to have handy. Also needed, 1 large paper clip.
First, to be fair, I have no digital meters to use here. I should probably get one for measuring inside and outsdie temps for real comparisions...
But short of that I can say that the car pulls harder now. It really feels faster, pulls harder, feels more reponsive to the throttle... And not just a little bit. It does this when it is hot outside, and when it is cold outside, as well as when the engine is cold and when the engine is hot. It's like it's letting the pulley do its work now, like the CAI is really working for the first time.
Second, the SC is quieter now. Significantly, perhaps back in line with pre-CAI days for me. I was immediately struck at how nice my 1-ball exaust sounds, something I hadn't really noticed before because I got the CAI, 15% pulley and 1-ball exaust all at the same time. I can still hear the SC, but it is not overpowering at high RPM anymore.
Anyway, that's what's up. I think I'm out of the market for an Alta CAI top now. This is very nice.
-- VBG
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Hmmm, an early prototype, still looks the same outside, but...
Originally Posted by SpiderX
WOW...... now that looks cool....pun intended......what about airflow?
Since this particular message I've designed a simple drop-in wire brace that holds the padding away from the filter all the way around. Additionally, there is huge airspace between the Alta filter and the stock plastic airbox bottom, so airflow is good.
As you may be able to see from the pics, my Alta CAI install preserves the back partition (a Steve's Auto Clinic trick). There is a ~5"x~5" window cut under the plastic cowl which provides free outside air into the Alta airbox...
At first I was using that back partition as an anchor point for my thermal insulation bracing, but I've got local MINI friends who also wanted to try this out but who don't have the back partition in place, so I designed the drop in brace so it will work with or without the partition.
Best,
-- Don
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Originally Posted by VBG
Hi Spyder,
Since this particular message I've designed a simple drop-in wire brace that holds the padding away from the filter all the way around. Additionally, there is huge airspace between the Alta filter and the stock plastic airbox bottom, so airflow is good.
As you may be able to see from the pics, my Alta CAI install preserves the back partition (a Steve's Auto Clinic trick). There is a ~5"x~5" window cut under the plastic cowl which provides free outside air into the Alta airbox...
At first I was using that back partition as an anchor point for my thermal insulation bracing, but I've got local MINI friends who also wanted to try this out but who don't have the back partition in place, so I designed the drop in brace so it will work with or without the partition.
Best,
-- Don
Since this particular message I've designed a simple drop-in wire brace that holds the padding away from the filter all the way around. Additionally, there is huge airspace between the Alta filter and the stock plastic airbox bottom, so airflow is good.
As you may be able to see from the pics, my Alta CAI install preserves the back partition (a Steve's Auto Clinic trick). There is a ~5"x~5" window cut under the plastic cowl which provides free outside air into the Alta airbox...
At first I was using that back partition as an anchor point for my thermal insulation bracing, but I've got local MINI friends who also wanted to try this out but who don't have the back partition in place, so I designed the drop in brace so it will work with or without the partition.
Best,
-- Don
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From: Cumming, GA
Early in this tread I saw TonyB mention ceramic coating.
Is there a reason why you couldn't just get the metal box ceramic coated?
If there is no reason why it can't be done, then is it thought that the felt/foil sheets are better?
Reason I ask is my new Alta has to come out for some work this week and I have a source for ceramic coating for race applications locally. And they are prompt and reasonably priced.
Is there a reason why you couldn't just get the metal box ceramic coated?
If there is no reason why it can't be done, then is it thought that the felt/foil sheets are better?
Reason I ask is my new Alta has to come out for some work this week and I have a source for ceramic coating for race applications locally. And they are prompt and reasonably priced.
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,196
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From: Hampton, VA
Originally Posted by hornguys
Early in this tread I saw TonyB mention ceramic coating.
Is there a reason why you couldn't just get the metal box ceramic coated?
If there is no reason why it can't be done, then is it thought that the felt/foil sheets are better?
Reason I ask is my new Alta has to come out for some work this week and I have a source for ceramic coating for race applications locally. And they are prompt and reasonably priced.
Is there a reason why you couldn't just get the metal box ceramic coated?
If there is no reason why it can't be done, then is it thought that the felt/foil sheets are better?
Reason I ask is my new Alta has to come out for some work this week and I have a source for ceramic coating for race applications locally. And they are prompt and reasonably priced.
The heat shields work well but they have the disadvantage of adding thermal mass. Once they get hot they will take longer to shed the heat than just the stock box would. Like everything it's a trade off..
Once the car is in motion the inside of the box is always getting cooler air than the outside.
I've played with this stuff a lot. Your biggest advantage is in delaying heat rise to the filter during stop and go traffic or a pit stop. If you drive, go shopping, park and come back out 1/2 hour later believe me the inside of the box is hot no matter what you do to insulate it. To be more effective you would also need to insulate the intake tube. This sets very close to a nice hot IC horn and gets good heat rise in a static environment. Stop moving, the tube gets hot and the heat rises right into the air box, right inside the filter.
This isn't all speculation, I've done the temperature readings to verify this.
Is it worth the effort? To me....yes.
Have fun
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Originally Posted by obehave
I'd think the thermal dispersant( as in k-huevos experiments) on the outside would be a better idea. Shed as much heat away from the filter as you can.
The heat shields work well but they have the disadvantage of adding thermal mass. Once they get hot they will take longer to shed the heat than just the stock box would. Like everything it's a trade off..
Once the car is in motion the inside of the box is always getting cooler air than the outside.
I've played with this stuff a lot. Your biggest advantage is in delaying heat rise to the filter during stop and go traffic or a pit stop. If you drive, go shopping, park and come back out 1/2 hour later believe me the inside of the box is hot no matter what you do to insulate it. To be more effective you would also need to insulate the intake tube. This sets very close to a nice hot IC horn and gets good heat rise in a static environment. Stop moving, the tube gets hot and the heat rises right into the air box, right inside the filter.
This isn't all speculation, I've done the temperature readings to verify this.
Is it worth the effort? To me....yes.
Have fun
The heat shields work well but they have the disadvantage of adding thermal mass. Once they get hot they will take longer to shed the heat than just the stock box would. Like everything it's a trade off..
Once the car is in motion the inside of the box is always getting cooler air than the outside.
I've played with this stuff a lot. Your biggest advantage is in delaying heat rise to the filter during stop and go traffic or a pit stop. If you drive, go shopping, park and come back out 1/2 hour later believe me the inside of the box is hot no matter what you do to insulate it. To be more effective you would also need to insulate the intake tube. This sets very close to a nice hot IC horn and gets good heat rise in a static environment. Stop moving, the tube gets hot and the heat rises right into the air box, right inside the filter.
This isn't all speculation, I've done the temperature readings to verify this.
Is it worth the effort? To me....yes.
Have fun
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2006
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It was mostly dumb luck...
Originally Posted by SpiderX
Really cool idea...... the proof is in your results...... did you get lucky with air flow (high vs low pressure) or did you some how know that the pressure would be advantageous at you new opening......
When I originally designed this I had two goals in mind: (1) keep the air cool, and (2) cover the top of the Alta airbox. I had felt how hot the Alta metal airbox got and as a result how hot the filter got. In my simple minded approach I figured that the filter had to be insulated from the metal airbox as well as from hot engine air that was obviously seeping in.
I had read some posts earlier related to pressure and throttle chrispness, but really didn't associate it to what I was doing until Obehave spoke up about it in this thread... He and a few others had been doing lots of good study of this long before I even knew how to spell CAI, they have my admiration and serious respect
.And Obehave may be right, aside from insulating from the heat, the thermal insulation design I'm using does seal the Alta metal airbox compartment except to outside air around the windshield vent, which may already be slightly low pressure due to the car's aerodynamics (I think I saw that recently in a set of results from wind-tunnel tests on a MINI).
Also, the thermal insulation does displace air, in particular it takes up space that would normally be occupied by hot air that rises. Not sure what affect that might have yet, but it does happen.
The fact that I also still have the back partition there with the ~5"x~5" window cut into it may also play into that, however my local friends who are also testing this do not have the back partition, and they seem to also experience the same change in throttle response.
So, a lot of this is still somewhat voodoo to me. It does have some effects that I like, so it seems worth pursuing.
Best,
-- Don
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Originally Posted by VBG
Hi Spider,
When I originally designed this I had two goals in mind: (1) keep the air cool, and (2) cover the top of the Alta airbox. I had felt how hot the Alta metal airbox got and as a result how hot the filter got. In my simple minded approach I figured that the filter had to be insulated from the metal airbox as well as from hot engine air that was obviously seeping in.
I had read some posts earlier related to pressure and throttle chrispness, but really didn't associate it to what I was doing until Obehave spoke up about it in this thread... He and a few others had been doing lots of good study of this long before I even knew how to spell CAI, they have my admiration and serious respect.
And Obehave may be right, aside from insulating from the heat, the thermal insulation design I'm using does seal the Alta metal airbox compartment except to outside air around the windshield vent, which may already be slightly low pressure due to the car's aerodynamics (I think I saw that recently in a set of results from wind-tunnel tests on a MINI).
Also, the thermal insulation does displace air, in particular it takes up space that would normally be occupied by hot air that rises. Not sure what affect that might have yet, but it does happen.
The fact that I also still have the back partition there with the ~5"x~5" window cut into it may also play into that, however my local friends who are also testing this do not have the back partition, and they seem to also experience the same change in throttle response.
So, a lot of this is still somewhat voodoo to me. It does have some effects that I like, so it seems worth pursuing.
Best,
-- Don
When I originally designed this I had two goals in mind: (1) keep the air cool, and (2) cover the top of the Alta airbox. I had felt how hot the Alta metal airbox got and as a result how hot the filter got. In my simple minded approach I figured that the filter had to be insulated from the metal airbox as well as from hot engine air that was obviously seeping in.
I had read some posts earlier related to pressure and throttle chrispness, but really didn't associate it to what I was doing until Obehave spoke up about it in this thread... He and a few others had been doing lots of good study of this long before I even knew how to spell CAI, they have my admiration and serious respect
.And Obehave may be right, aside from insulating from the heat, the thermal insulation design I'm using does seal the Alta metal airbox compartment except to outside air around the windshield vent, which may already be slightly low pressure due to the car's aerodynamics (I think I saw that recently in a set of results from wind-tunnel tests on a MINI).
Also, the thermal insulation does displace air, in particular it takes up space that would normally be occupied by hot air that rises. Not sure what affect that might have yet, but it does happen.
The fact that I also still have the back partition there with the ~5"x~5" window cut into it may also play into that, however my local friends who are also testing this do not have the back partition, and they seem to also experience the same change in throttle response.
So, a lot of this is still somewhat voodoo to me. It does have some effects that I like, so it seems worth pursuing.
Best,
-- Don
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Joined: Feb 2006
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Cool man...
Originally Posted by SpiderX
I appreciate the post because I have two ideas...one of coating the oustide of a box and the other I am not at liberty to say.....heh heh
But like Obehave mentioned, reducing the heat outside of the airbox would also help -- like getting coated headers, agressive venting and other cooling techniques. And, anything that cools the engine bay will also benefit other hot entities in there, in particular like the intercooler.
I'm being sort of reserved with my mods, or I'd be seriously considering getting coated headers now myself.
Best,
-- Don
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Hampton, VA
Originally Posted by SpiderX
nice post..... heat is bad......anything to keep it down is good (pardon me for being so technical)
Got in now though
Good post
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 5
From: Woodside, CA
Some things to think about....
What we want is something that insulates well, and has low thermal mass for faster recovery. I don't think thermal dispersants have any use in this application. On the outside, it would get more heat from the engine bay to the CAI box, and on the inside, it would increase the rate at which heat gets into the intake charge. Both of these would be bad. Sure, the intake box would cool faster, but only because it's giving heat to the intake charge more efficiently.
What would it matter if the box ran at 100 over ambient, if the heat couldn't get to the intake charge? It wouldn't, so insulate the inside.....
If the box never gets hot, then there's no heat to soak into the air-charge, so insulate the outside.
This may sound like a joke, but if someone wants to try this, I think it would work really, really well:
Insulate both the inside an outside with a multi-layer of Al foil and something like tissue or newspaper. Seal/isolate the insulation layers with Al duct tape. 2-3 layers on both the inside and the outside would be killer! I know this SOUNDS micky-mouse, but remember all that foil on the lunar landers? There was a reason they did that, and that reason works here too. If one is worried about how much heat the tissue can take, you can look around for something that takes temps better.
I think an approach like this would bear fruit. High R value with little thickness, doesn't add much thermal mass, and is cheap!
Matt
What would it matter if the box ran at 100 over ambient, if the heat couldn't get to the intake charge? It wouldn't, so insulate the inside.....
If the box never gets hot, then there's no heat to soak into the air-charge, so insulate the outside.
This may sound like a joke, but if someone wants to try this, I think it would work really, really well:
Insulate both the inside an outside with a multi-layer of Al foil and something like tissue or newspaper. Seal/isolate the insulation layers with Al duct tape. 2-3 layers on both the inside and the outside would be killer! I know this SOUNDS micky-mouse, but remember all that foil on the lunar landers? There was a reason they did that, and that reason works here too. If one is worried about how much heat the tissue can take, you can look around for something that takes temps better.
I think an approach like this would bear fruit. High R value with little thickness, doesn't add much thermal mass, and is cheap!
Matt
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Pipe Creek, Texas
In my measurements with an IRT, external surface temperatures of the stock air box never exceeded 147 F. Michael (namwob) used foil lined bubble wrap on his Alta and it survived; https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6&d=1110923941
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Deja vu...
Originally Posted by k-huevo
In my measurements with an IRT, external surface temperatures of the stock air box never exceeded 147 F. Michael (namwob) used foil lined bubble wrap on his Alta and it survived; https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6&d=1110923941
When was this experiment done? Is there an old thread that we're duplicating here?
Like I say, you guys were seriously studying this stuff before I knew how to spell CAI. My deepest respect to you all
.Best,
-- Don
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Hampton, VA
Originally Posted by k-huevo
In my measurements with an IRT, external surface temperatures of the stock air box never exceeded 147 F. Michael (namwob) used foil lined bubble wrap on his Alta and it survived; https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...6&d=1110923941
I knew I'd seen that someplace, thanks.
Along those lines and what Dr O is talking about I have some Al surfaced duct insulation. It's on the inside of my HDI box now. Now that I have completed some other higher priority projects coating the exterior is next.
I have some good data on my IC temps so I hope to see an improvement. If not... oh well
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
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From: Woodside, CA
Insulation material...
Hi all, I made something to improve the AGS airflow, and had to insulate it. I used felt and contact cement, and covered it with the Al foil. Hand test my gizmo went from "ouch" hot to slightly warm to the touch....
I have some more, so if someone wants to try this with an HDI or Alta or something, I'd be happy to send it out.....
Matt
I have some more, so if someone wants to try this with an HDI or Alta or something, I'd be happy to send it out.....
Matt
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Eugene, OR
Has anybody thought about using a silicone insulating material? I haven't done the research on it yet, but my subjective experience indicates good insulation, surprisingly little thermal mass, and good radiation. Plus it's good to well over 400º. I'm thinking that it would be a good choice for an outside insulation.
Thoughts?
I'm inspired by this thread... We'll see what comes of it.
Thoughts?
I'm inspired by this thread... We'll see what comes of it.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 43
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From: Eugene, OR
True enough. Actually, this one was inspired by "what's lying around my kitchen"... thinking about this thread while making dinner, my attention was caught by my silicone pot holder. I've seen them for ~$1 for an 8" square. If I can find some cheap enough (and a thermocouple cheap enough) I might go for it.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10,340
Likes: 5
From: Woodside, CA
Another item for those wanting to tinker....
it's a high-temp, high thermal conductivity epoxy.... If you want to glue things and get the heat to conduct, this looks like it might do the trick. Don't know what it costs though...
Matt
http://www.designnews.com/article/CA6351118.html
Looking farther, there's some from Omega that's available in smaller amounts at doable prices (2 oz ofr $12...)
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...200&Nav=temf08
Matt
http://www.designnews.com/article/CA6351118.html
Looking farther, there's some from Omega that's available in smaller amounts at doable prices (2 oz ofr $12...)
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?r...200&Nav=temf08
with the aftermarket cais we're getting too much air at partial throttle but at wot we're good to go .