i think with heavy enough impact the bolt on the endlinks will break or
the frame will bend and the nut holding the endlink to the frame will
tear right through the hole.

 

Thanks, any chance when this bracket will become available? Also, any other colors coming? If not I'll have to wait for silver as blue or red in my BRG would not look good.

 

Hoping my Co-Pilot/GF gets me a silver one for my MCSa for my Birthday in less then 2 weeks. So lets see what happens...maybe someone could just send her all the info her NAM name is krolyat

 

i thought Shoe was out of the silver ones (?). can you delay your
birthday by 2 weeks?

 

Only red and blue in stock. Silver will be available late November (just heard from my distributor).

 

Shoot..maybe I'll get a empty box with a IOU

 

Red would look nice with PS/B. Very nice.

 

^^ yah, i should've done red too.

 

get the red or the blue. your engine bay will look better with these colors as oppose to the silver one. since this mod is installed right next to the engine, which is some-what silver color, you or other spectator will not notice it as much.
trust me, you will be better with the red or the blue.

 

well i have the blue on mine and it looks pretty good.

 

Installed this part last weekend and overall I'm impressed with the turn out so far. One question though, Has anyone ran into the situation where the bolt to the engine was too long without the bell washer. I understand that the bolts that came with it were two different sizes and I was using the short one on the engine. I was able to tighten it without a bell washer until about 1/4" thread was visable, then the effort to turn it any more was almost rounding off the bolt head (using a box wrench but at a bad angle due to the mount bracket). I really wanted to not use a bell washer on this point because my damper is close the the frame around the center of the damper.

Anyone else find that this bolt is too long with no washer?

 

It's possible there may have been some rust in the threads of the block.

 

Hi there. This is due to rust build up in your threaded hole.

Spritz some WD-40 in there (requires that you back everything out) and then you'll be able to tighten it down all the way.

 

and it will loosen all on its own from the WD40! yay jk jk



im still happy with mine (a good thing).

 

Actually mine did loosen up.....but that's because a) I didn't tighten it down as tight as I thought and/or b) I think I sprayed a little too much in there.

So just spray a little bit.

And use a towel to soak up the excess.....

 

I put mine on my '06 in (no foolin') about 15 minutes after reading the instructions and tips. Clearances are tight, no doubt, mine looks like the pic of the other blue one above. The masking tape trick is The Best, didn't need anyting but a 17mm box-end and a rather small adjustable wrench (to hold the bottom nut still while I torqued the top on the frame rail). Putting the small wrench on the bottom (bolt head) and holding it parallel to the radiator works great.

That masking tape trick: Double check the masking tape that holds your assembly together, then carefully insert in the frame rail while keeping a finger on it, once she's through the hole, put that nut on (GENTLY, now!) tighten 'er up and you're there. Once on, peel off any masking tape you can reach.

Performance: a Very Slight vibration in one dash panel (slight adjustment cured it). A subtle but noticable difference in shifting. I took it off to check clearance (and check that I hadn't scratched the paint - I had), and left it off to test drive and the shifting and throttle response feel "looser", so it makes a difference.

 

you're welcome DixonL2 for my original masking tape idea. jk jk

there's 3 types of tapes i have at all times...
1. e-tape (well, various colors)
2. masking tape (well, regular and blue)
3. vinyl packaging tape (well, duct tape too)

oh wait, i forgot my 3M mounting tape. so there's 4.

 

Masking tape = BIG

Many thanks for that great idea!

 

how about c) you don't have a lockwasher on that bolt

 

That would help too.

 

or, spray some RC car motor spray or brake cleaner into the thread
after you get it to go in all the way so it washes out the WD40.

 

Ok I've just ordered a whole bunch o' lock washers. Going forward all kits will have a lock washer. I still think it's the amount of wd-40 I sprayed in there that was the major culprit....but hey, can't hurt to have the lock washer.

 

How long do you think that WD-40 lasts in there after the engine gets up to temp a couple times?

 

Where do you think the WD-40 vapour is going to go with a bolt in the way?

 

The bolt and threads are not completely sealed, although it doesn't feel like it, there is space between them. That's why you put sealer on the head bolts of a small-block Chevy, so the coolant doesn't come up through the threads. The WD will just evaporate with the heat.